NEOGEO 161 IN 1 - NEWER VERSION? GadgetUK164

Broomfield

New Challenger
Joined
May 18, 2016
Posts
57
Hi guys

I got this Neogeo 161 in 1 cart, I was going to do the sound fix mod on it following GadgetUK164 youtube video's and guide. But when I opened it up, it looks like a different version motherboard.

GadgetUK164 please would you be able to help me with this? I have uploaded some pictures to show both of the boards. But I have no idea what to do as its different than the one on youtube.

Any help would be great, please tell me what I need to mod on it? thank you.
 

Attachments

  • BOARD 1 BACK.jpg
    BOARD 1 BACK.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 603
  • BOARD 1 FRONT.jpg
    BOARD 1 FRONT.jpg
    1,001.8 KB · Views: 600
  • BOARD 2 BACK.jpg
    BOARD 2 BACK.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 602
  • BOARD 2 FRONT.jpg
    BOARD 2 FRONT.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 603

JoeAwesome

I survived Secret Santa, It wasn't Easy.,
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Posts
3,116
Strange that the first board shows "N in 1" which is a 120 in 1, and the second board says 138 in 1.
 

Niko

Whip's Subordinate
Joined
May 15, 2014
Posts
1,773
Have you tested the games to see if any sound issues are even present? Its very possible that this design doesnt have the same issues.
 

daskrabs

Ace Ghost Pilot
10 Year Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2010
Posts
1,313
Can you boot the game and show the menu screen? Also, If you load up Pulstar, RoTD or Matrimelee, the audio should be dodgy on the attract screens. If it isn't, perhaps they fixed it?
 

NeoLucian

New Challenger
Joined
Sep 11, 2013
Posts
62
What colour is the sticker on the cart?

The original 161 cart had a Yellow surround on the sticker and I believe the newer version has a blue surround

Here is a pic of the original one (from my old cab a few years ago)
SDC15073.JPG

Here is a pic of the later version (not my pic)
0001113_neo-geo-snk-161-in-1-multi-game-cartridge.jpeg

Im afraid I never opened them up to look at the differences but I assumed their would be changes than just the colour of the sticker :glee:
 

Broomfield

New Challenger
Joined
May 18, 2016
Posts
57
What colour is the sticker on the cart?

The original 161 cart had a Yellow surround on the sticker and I believe the newer version has a blue surround

Here is a pic of the original one (from my old cab a few years ago)
View attachment 38155

Here is a pic of the later version (not my pic)
View attachment 38156

Im afraid I never opened them up to look at the differences but I assumed their would be changes than just the colour of the sticker :glee:

Thanks for info, unfortunately I cant see your attachments. Is it because I am a newly registered user? :(

I just checked the yellow cart shell though, and can confirm it has the blue surround on the sticker. so it must be the newer version?

I'll have to check those games that you mentioned and see if they have any glitches, I did test metal slug 1 though and the sound is abit muffled in places.
 
Last edited:

Broomfield

New Challenger
Joined
May 18, 2016
Posts
57
ahh I can now see the picture attachments :), just an update I tested those games and I didnt seem to hear any sound glitches.

But on some other games I can hear some scratchy sound fx like metal slug (the gun noises) and also (fatal fury 1) there is an occasional crackle,
 

RetroTechRewind

Crazed MVS Addict
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Posts
141
Thanks for info, unfortunately I cant see your attachments. Is it because I am a newly registered user? :(

I just checked the yellow cart shell though, and can confirm it has the blue surround on the sticker. so it must be the newer version?

I'll have to check those games that you mentioned and see if they have any glitches, I did test metal slug 1 though and the sound is abit muffled in places.

I had 2 of these 161 carts, both had the blue surround sticker, but neither boards look like your version. So the sticker color may not be an indicator of the newer boards. Where did you buy yours at?

I'm very interested to see if the sound issues are fixed. I did all the fixes on mine already, but wouldn't mind having one that sounds great without having to tinker with it.

Good find man!
 

Fygee

Bewbs! Z'OMG, Teh BEWBS!,
20 Year Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2001
Posts
3,985
I'm also interested to know if some of bugs had been worked out, notably having a real version of Garou MOTW on it rather than the messed up beta ROM.
 

Tanooki

War Room Troll
Joined
May 24, 2016
Posts
1,745
I opened mine up out of curiosity, it doesn't match yours, but it also doesn't match the boards up on mvs-scans either, very similar to it, but there are some notable changes with chips, chip locations, and also the etchings on the boards too if you eye them side by side.

How many versions of this 161in1 are there? Mine has the blue border sticker too.
 

Attachments

  • 161in1boardA.JPG
    161in1boardA.JPG
    1 MB · Views: 547
  • 161in1boardB.JPG
    161in1boardB.JPG
    993.7 KB · Views: 545

RetroTechRewind

Crazed MVS Addict
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Posts
141
I opened mine up out of curiosity, it doesn't match yours, but it also doesn't match the boards up on mvs-scans either, very similar to it, but there are some notable changes with chips, chip locations, and also the etchings on the boards too if you eye them side by side.

How many versions of this 161in1 are there? Mine has the blue border sticker too.

Both of mine match yours Tanooki. And both of mine had sound glitches etc before the fixes. So there must be multiple revisions of the 161 cart. Or, different manufacturers of it? I'm sure the original was bootlegged again by more than one producer.
 

Tanooki

War Room Troll
Joined
May 24, 2016
Posts
1,745
Well I read up there that Metal Slug should have static or some issue when guns get fired or just being muffled? Mine is clear, I just did the first 3 missions and it was smooth. I think I need to find that list of grievances with the cart and see how mine holds up, other than the retarded imbalancing by game of what difficulty stuff starts at (like SVC Plus was on lv8 and 4 for me is hard enough as I'm not familiar with it at all.)
 

Broomfield

New Challenger
Joined
May 18, 2016
Posts
57
I had a chance to test some of the games, samurai showdown still has a problem with the sprite of one of the characters. rage of dragons and matrimelle I didnt see any problems with sound. Metal slug, its hard to explain, when you start the game the volume kinda sounds like its up a notch too high. samurai showdown 2 has a slight pop every now and then also.

btw is there anyway to stop the games from defaulting to 8-level difficulty every time it loads? or do I have to go into the setting for each game and change it, and turn on blood on metal slug 1 etc. Will it save if I do that?

sorry for all the questions, am still relativity new to all of this.


btw I brought the cart from alixpress

this one here
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/SNK-...2548228808.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.54.eHaKh6
 
Last edited:

Tanooki

War Room Troll
Joined
May 24, 2016
Posts
1,745
It should handle like a normal arcade cabinet. As you fire up each game it will remember the settings from the last 8, then lose them as more roll through.
 

Broomfield

New Challenger
Joined
May 18, 2016
Posts
57
Strange that the first board shows "N in 1" which is a 120 in 1, and the second board says 138 in 1.

Yes your right, having checked the pictures linked to GadgetUK diagrams the "board 1" looks very similar (but not the same) as the 120 in 1, but the second board looks to be the same as the second pcb found in the 138 cart.

Does that mean I would have to modify it exactly the same as what GadgetUK's diagram shows for each board?

It should handle like a normal arcade cabinet. As you fire up each game it will remember the settings from the last 8, then lose them as more roll through.


ahh I see, thanks for that :)
 
Last edited:

madman

Blame madman, You Know You Want To.,
Joined
Jun 1, 2007
Posts
7,518
Is this made by the people who were going to make Niko49's perfect multicart?
 

flashbackx

Crossed Swords Squire
Joined
Jun 27, 2014
Posts
181
I'm also interested to know if some of bugs had been worked out, notably having a real version of Garou MOTW on it rather than the messed up beta ROM.

Mine is the newer version... which I guess is why I never knew what everyone was complaining about with the audio glitches. However, MOTW is still the beta ROM.
 

GadgetUK

Ace Ghost Pilot
Joined
Sep 27, 2013
Posts
1,323
Are you sure that's actually a 161 in 1 - does it show the 161 in 1 menu? It looks like a 120 in 1. I wouldn't have thought there weren't enough chips on the top board but maybe I am wrong.

On board 1 you need the 100nF bypass caps in the missing positions there (on top and bottom). It already has a regulator so you don't need to do anything there. It looks like you need to add the 2 x 47pF caps to SDRMPX and SDPMPX pins though (on the board containing V ROMs. The bottom board needs the 100nF bypass caps adding on both sides too, and I would swap out the 2 diodes for an AMS1117 3.3v regulator for good measure.

EDIT: Use the 120 in 1 and 138 in 1 photos as a reference.
 
Last edited:

Broomfield

New Challenger
Joined
May 18, 2016
Posts
57
Are you sure that's actually a 161 in 1 - does it show the 161 in 1 menu? It looks like a 120 in 1. I wouldn't have thought there weren't enough chips on the top board but maybe I am wrong.

On board 1 you need the 100nF bypass caps in the missing positions there (on top and bottom). It already has a regulator so you don't need to do anything there. It looks like you need to add the 2 x 47pF caps to SDRMPX and SDPMPX pins though (on the board containing V ROMs. The bottom board needs the 100nF bypass caps adding on both sides too, and I would swap out the 2 diodes for an AMS1117 3.3v regulator for good measure.

EDIT: Use the 120 in 1 and 138 in 1 photos as a reference.

Thanks Gadgetuk, can definitely confirm its the 161 board, even has the same menu screen, Also I think I can do all the mods fine except I am not 100% clear on where I should add the 2 x 47pF caps to SDRMPX and SDPMPX pins though? as this board is slightly different to the "120 in 1" and I havent a clue what/where those chips are, and which board has the V roms on it? any chance you could post a pic on here highlighting where I should add those 2 47pF caps? I can do all the rest according to your guides.

So i'll add the 100nf caps to all of those missing empty places on all of the boards and on the "board 2" I'll go by your 138 in 1 guide and remove the diodes and add a regulator with the wire. And then also add a capacitor so it has its own reservoir? Its just am abit confused where those 2 47pf caps should be added.


Do you mean do this on the second board?
1.jpg

and this
2.jpg


kind regards
 
Last edited:

Broomfield

New Challenger
Joined
May 18, 2016
Posts
57
It looks like you need to add the 2 x 47pF caps to SDRMPX and SDPMPX pins though (on the board containing V ROMs

it looks like I figured it out, also I watched one of your earlier multicart videos and found out which pins they were. I have to solder the "2 x 47pF" caps to pins 55 and pin 47 on the "Board 1".

On my board those capacitors in points C3 and C4 are 47uf 25v. So does that mean I need a less value for the board 2 reservoir cap? which value would be good?

thanks
 
Last edited:

GadgetUK

Ace Ghost Pilot
Joined
Sep 27, 2013
Posts
1,323
See below:- Ignore those 2 electrolytics you have on there - those are smoothing / reservoir caps, so you don't need to add any to board 1.
Just add the 47pF caps between the 2 vias circled and ground. ie. each via will be connected to a 47pF cap, the other end to the nearest ground. The PCB area around the case pillar is not a ground on this board, so if you want to solder there you will need a wire between the ground on the left hand side and that area around the cut out where the case support pillar goes through.

EDIT: With regards to the 2nd board, yes the photos you put above (from me) look to use the same PCB - all components in same place etc.

EDIT2: Any of those other 'PC' spots, you should add a 100nF cap too. There will be those 100nF caps missing on both sides of both boards.

BOARD 1 FRONT.jpg
 
Last edited:

Broomfield

New Challenger
Joined
May 18, 2016
Posts
57
Thanks for the info, its making it much more clear for me :)

In regards to the cap size on board 2 diagram, where you have written
"47uf to 220uf optional, should be less than the value of C12 on the PROG board"
what size cap should i put there on mine? As on my prog board I dont have a C12. Should I just put a "47uf 25v" cap there? or the same as the one in your picture "220uf 10v"? what would be a good value?

Also in regards to the brown "47pf cap's" what voltage do these need to be? as on ebay I'm seeing listings for 47pf and 100pf caps at 20v, 50v etc. Which would be a good voltage? Does it make much of a difference?

many thanks :)
 
Last edited:

GadgetUK

Ace Ghost Pilot
Joined
Sep 27, 2013
Posts
1,323
20v or 50v caps are fine. Ignore that bit about the electrolytic caps - you don't need one, you have 2 on the PROG board already - C3 and C4. You could put a 47uF on the other board if you swap out the diodes for a regulator.
 

Broomfield

New Challenger
Joined
May 18, 2016
Posts
57
20v or 50v caps are fine. Ignore that bit about the electrolytic caps - you don't need one, you have 2 on the PROG board already - C3 and C4. You could put a 47uF on the other board if you swap out the diodes for a regulator.

Thanks, I've done what you said and put 100nf caps in all the empty slots and also attached the 47pf caps onto the correct pins and attached them on ground on the pcb,

On the second board, I've removed the diodes and attached a capacitor value 47uf 16v , is that a correct value? will it be enough? or should I put a 47uf 25v? (slightly higher voltage).

I've also attached the AMS1117 3.3v and cut the middle pin. I'm still waiting for the 100nf ceramic caps to arrive so I can attach them onto the M1 and the S1.

I've uploaded some pics, does it all look ok? and also is the capacitor on the second board 47uf 16v will be enough? or should I put one with higher voltage?

161 fix 1.jpg161 fix 2.jpg161 fix 3.jpg161 fix 4.jpg161 fix 5.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top