CRT Fetish Thread

I wonder if anyone makes standalone enclosures for arcade CRTs, or if anyone has stuffed one into a standard TV shell.

marktheshark said:

Uhh, what?

No offense, but how does Skips (not the user, the guy in his avatar & in this post. He's from Regular Show.) look ANYTHING like a sumo wrestler? Your insults are pretty bad, to say the least.

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i know they are, and i apologize, but i am getting pretty sick and tired of taking it up the ass from members like this guy.

again , i apologize to most of the members of the fanbase, for derailing this thread so,
but let it be known; i will not stand for this being butt-fucking by certain individuals; i've been taking grand ole' smorgasbord heaping helpings of it for a while now
and i've finally had it. anyone giving me a hard time is going to be getting equal measures of the same in return.

in any case, let's try to forget all this and return to what this thread is all about, shall we?

Just let it go in stride Tasuke, it's just how this place is. I'm all good with you and I say hang in there and it'll be fine and people will move to some other user

Master Tasuke said:

anyone giving me a hard time is going to be getting equal measures of the same in return.

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Last time I checked I had not said anything negative to you until you directed a comment my way. I had no problem with your hobbies (saw the doll fucker threads and let them be, to each their own) until you decided to throw yourself into the ring. You fired shots at me first. If you cant take shit don't give it out, especially when the initial bullshit you hopped into was in no way directed at you.

Joe "little j" 8 Is getting shit on because he has a long history of bullshit and the information he makes up needs to be called out when it comes up just in case new comers see it. He is just getting bashed because he doesn't stop posting it, even when corrected without the trolling. I hop on people when they are continuously posting bullshit about technical subjects, that is NO secret in this community. A ton of people come to this thread when deciding which monitor/tv to buy and Joe "little j" 8's comments are said in a manner which makes it sound like he is stating it as fact. The last thing we need is newcomers and novices taking this information and running with it. Like I said, hes getting shit on because he wont stop.

Now I don't mean this in a trolling way, like I did with Joe8, but if you dislike the environment here I highly recommend considering another community. SHMUPS is a great place for console/arcade discussion if you want a more tightly regulated environment enforced by a group of moderators. Sorry but this is how the site is, its not going to change because someone dislikes how things are. This site polices itself and shit flinging happens to be part of that process. Sorry your jimmies got rustled but that's what happens when you take pot shots at me when I was not even directing anything at you to begin with.

P.S. As stated I did not partake in any of the shit slinging against you in the other threads. You got a comment equal to the one you shot at me in this thread.

But you are right about one thing, this thread needs to get back on track.

Skips said:

But you are right about one thing, this thread needs to get back on track.

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Well said,

On that note, as a fellow 20l5 owner perhaps you could offer me some assistance with my 20l5.

My l5 works perfect via composite/component/s-video.

And also seems to work fine with PS1/PS2/Saturn

SNES/Wii/MD/Genesis via RGB scart produces this odd behavior. which I've made some videos of.

http://youtu.be/T1y1pnK8Vt4?list=UUDr58C83FoqQHG1G1VXST3A

http://youtu.be/7L0WVdPlaw8?list=UUDr58C83FoqQHG1G1VXST3A

Have you ever had this occur with your L5?
Do you need to use a sync stablizer like the extron SS 200 or a sync cleaner?
Do you use a specific type of sync?

BTW all the consoles and cabling work perfectly fine on my 20l2.

Thanks in advance!

Nyd

Nyder said:

Well said,

On that note, as a fellow 20l5 owner perhaps you could offer me some assistance with my 20l5.

My l5 works perfect via composite/component/s-video.

And also seems to work fine with PS1/PS2/Saturn

SNES/Wii/MD/Genesis via RGB scart produces this odd behavior. which I've made some videos of.

http://youtu.be/T1y1pnK8Vt4?list=UUDr58C83FoqQHG1G1VXST3A

http://youtu.be/7L0WVdPlaw8?list=UUDr58C83FoqQHG1G1VXST3A

Have you ever had this occur with your L5?
Do you need to use a sync stablizer like the extron SS 200 or a sync cleaner?
Do you use a specific type of sync?

BTW all the consoles and cabling work perfectly fine on my 20l2.

Thanks in advance!

Nyd

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Sadly I have owned about 5 or 6 20L5's and a 14L5 and none of them had this issue. Do the cables you have use composite video for sync or composite sync (what some people call clean/raw sync)? Not sure if you have tried it yet but when I have issues with a 20L5 the first thing I do is go into the advanced system menu (pressing enter + degauss in the system menu) and reset the monitor to factory defaults. It may be possible the last owner had a wonky nonstandard setting on it. The next thing I would do is try switching your cables from Composite Video Sync to Composite Sync (if they are not on those consoles already). Although all the 20l5's I have had were not picky about sync, I have seen people who had ones that were.

I do not use any devices between my 20l5 and game consoles except for my non powered scart switch. All my consoles are wired for Composite Sync.

P.S. Also make sure your scart to bnc adapter does not have an LM1881n in it. If it has one and you are using a scart cable that is wired for composite sync it may cause issues. You only want to use a sync stripper such as the lm1881n when necessary. Using one where it is not can cause things to not work correctly.

Skips said:

Sadly I have owned about 5 or 6 20L5's and a 14L5 and none of them had this issue. Do the cables you have use composite video for sync or composite sync (what some people call clean/raw sync)? Not sure if you have tried it yet but when I have issues with a 20L5 the first thing I do is go into the advanced system menu (pressing enter + degauss in the system menu) and reset the monitor to factory defaults. It may be possible the last owner had a wonky nonstandard setting on it. The next thing I would do is try switching your cables from Composite Video Sync to Composite Sync (if they are not on those consoles already). Although all the 20l5's I have had were not picky about sync, I have seen people who had ones that were.

I do not use any devices between my 20l5 and game consoles except for my non powered scart switch. All my consoles are wired for Composite Sync.

P.S. Also make sure your scart to bnc adapter does not have an LM1881n in it. If it has one and you are using a scart cable that is wired for composite sync it may cause issues. You only want to use a sync stripper such as the lm1881n when necessary. Using one where it is not can cause things to not work correctly.

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Thank you so much for your prompt reply.

The Genesis/megadrive SCART is a raw sync/composite sync.
it was obtained from retroaccessories.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-Genesis-1- ... OU:CA:1120

The SNES scart is a composite sync for NTSC SNES which I obtained from retrogamingcables.

The wii scart I have no idea, but it is the official wii RGB scart from the UK (My wii is a Euro/PAL model which outputs RGB).

Ironically the SCART cables that seem to work fine on my L5 are the cheap playstation gold coated cables with the Video breakout I've obtained of of ebay.

The Saturn SCART is the official PAL RGB scart released for the model 1 saturn (I have 2 others that also seem to work fine)

Broken made my female SCART to BNC connector, as far as I know it does not have sync stripper.

The second one I have is a male which I use with a switch box and does not contain sync stripper either.

I have factory reset the display several times with no change.

I believe the issue most likely is a bad IC which handles the RGB, why it seems to occur only with certain RGB inputs during certain activities/resolutions etc is beyond me.

Normally I would simply sell off the unit, but I've never experienced such an amazing picture and it does still work for component and composite and RGB seems to be fine on my other two important systems PS/Saturn.

It also performs perfectly with a VGA box for the dreamcast in 480p and other consoles in 480p. However, it does not like the Hanzo VGA box, and there appears to be sync issues.

The information you'v provided leads me to believe this behavior is not a quirk of the l5 in general and mine has some sort of fault.

I'm speculating that perhaps the consoles that do work, are using cables wired for sync on composite video.

Thanks again,

Nyd

Nyder said:

Thank you so much for your prompt reply.

The Genesis/megadrive SCART is a raw sync/composite sync.
it was obtained from retroaccessories.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-Genesis-1- ... OU:CA:1120

The SNES scart is a composite sync for NTSC SNES which I obtained from retrogamingcables.

The wii scart I have no idea, but it is the official wii RGB scart from the UK (My wii is a Euro/PAL model which outputs RGB).

Ironically the SCART cables that seem to work fine on my L5 are the cheap playstation gold coated cables with the Video breakout I've obtained of of ebay.

The Saturn SCART is the official PAL RGB scart released for the model 1 saturn (I have 2 others that also seem to work fine)

Broken made my female SCART to BNC connector, as far as I know it does not have sync stripper.

The second one I have is a male which I use with a switch box and does not contain sync stripper either.

I have factory reset the display several times with no change.

I believe the issue most likely is a bad IC which handles the RGB, why it seems to occur only with certain RGB inputs during certain activities/resolutions etc is beyond me.

Normally I would simply sell off the unit, but I've never experienced such an amazing picture and it does still work for component and composite and RGB seems to be fine on my other two important systems PS/Saturn.

It also performs perfectly with a VGA box for the dreamcast in 480p and other consoles in 480p. However, it does not like the Hanzo VGA box, and there appears to be sync issues.

The information you'v provided leads me to believe this behavior is not a quirk of the l5 in general and mine has some sort of fault.

I'm speculating that perhaps the consoles that do work, are using cables wired for sync on composite video.

Thanks again,

Nyd

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From everything you have said I am pretty sure its a fault with something on the RGB line. You could try a few things if you don't want to get rid of it. The first is find a repair tech locally that will work on such things still. The second is you could try buying a BKM-129X, maybe the problem is only that set of inputs and this could be a work around. Third is you can try to find high end rgbs to component encoder such as the Kramer FC-14. I tried one of those on the 20L5 and aside from a slight color difference there was little to no difference between it and RGB. Component on the 20L5 is still sex for your eyeballs if using a good component encoder/circuit.

Skips said:

From everything you have said I am pretty sure its a fault with something on the RGB line. You could try a few things if you don't want to get rid of it. The first is find a repair tech locally that will work on such things still. The second is you could try buying a BKM-129X, maybe the problem is only that set of inputs and this could be a work around. Third is you can try to find high end rgbs to component encoder such as the Kramer FC-14. I tried one of those on the 20L5 and aside from a slight color difference there was little to no difference between it and RGB. Component on the 20L5 is still sex for your eyeballs if using a good component encoder/circuit.

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All that makes good sense, I am actively looking for a BKM-129X. I wanted one anyway as I wanted to have a component switch box for component stuff and then use a RGB switch box for the SCART stuff.

I might try the editing house I obtained the l5 from, I might even inquire if they have anymore l5's. I have a very minty l2 as well, but it just doesn't compare to the l5, I can barely use it as the l5 has spoiled me.

I read a thread somewhere that some l5 owners were experiencing loss of sync when the picture went very white/bright and this was due to the RGB signals being too strong and they constructed a sync cleaner to resolve it.

As this wavy line issue seems to be most noticable on the white/RGB screen test pattern maybe it is related.

I've adjusted the pots on my old 2530, just for geometry and focus, would I be able to turn down the intensity of the rgb the same way or would I still just use the service menu via OSD?

Cheers,

Nyd

A little Sonic RGB action on my 20L2

Zerrminator said:

A little Sonic RGB action on my 20L2

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Ive always hated how soft looking the l2 is but those colors are amazing.

Nyder said:

All that makes good sense, I am actively looking for a BKM-129X. I wanted one anyway as I wanted to have a component switch box for component stuff and then use a RGB switch box for the SCART stuff.

I might try the editing house I obtained the l5 from, I might even inquire if they have anymore l5's. I have a very minty l2 as well, but it just doesn't compare to the l5, I can barely use it as the l5 has spoiled me.

I read a thread somewhere that some l5 owners were experiencing loss of sync when the picture went very white/bright and this was due to the RGB signals being too strong and they constructed a sync cleaner to resolve it.

As this wavy line issue seems to be most noticable on the white/RGB screen test pattern maybe it is related.

I've adjusted the pots on my old 2530, just for geometry and focus, would I be able to turn down the intensity of the rgb the same way or would I still just use the service menu via OSD?

Cheers,

Nyd

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You would just use the service menu via OSD. You don't need to open the 20L5 to do most the adjustments.

Skips said:

Ive always hated how soft looking the l2 is but those colors are amazing.

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My L2 is a solid performer, reliable workhorse, with good colours. But ya soft picture, my 1354Q has much sharper picture and its only 600tvl as well, probably cuz its smaller.

Nyd

Nyder said:

My L2 is a solid performer, reliable workhorse, with good colours. But ya soft picture, my 1354Q has much sharper picture and its only 600tvl as well, probably cuz its smaller.

Nyd

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Yeah the 20L2 isnt a bad monitor, i just never cared for the softness. Both the 1354q and 1954q are sharp monitors. Ive had both in the past and they looked pretty good.

Skips said:

Yeah the 20L2 isnt a bad monitor, i just never cared for the softness. Both the 1354q and 1954q are sharp monitors. Ive had both in the past and they looked pretty good.

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I was planning on getting rid of the 1354q but decided to drop the l2, I ordered a BKM-129X. hoping it will do it all. Will keep the 1354q as a work bench monitor.

Plan is to get another 800 tvl 20 or XM29, keep one in tate mode.
That is if the next scaler doesn't eliminate input lag altogether.

Still I like the real dark scanlines produced by HR PVM' CRT's, I was a bit disappointed in my Hanzo's scanlines, they didn't seem dark or pronounced enough.

Nyd

To bring the thread back on track here are a few shots of different screens with different games...

This is Akumajō Densetsu running on my AV fami on RGB on the 21" Trinitron. I remember when i first fired it up and i was stunned at the quality of the picture. Those consumer Trinitron's really have great colours.



This shows how good the geometry was on the JVC when i first got it. The only setting I adjusted was H/V size and centring.

So my brother gave me his old CRT it's a Sony KV-36FS13. Weights a ton (225#), but I think it needs a couple adjustments.

It seems in the top middle, it bows up:


Also I think this is a convergence issue:


any help would be appreciated, I can get into the service menu and monkey around ok, but I don't know what all the abbreviations mean.

It's nice to see someone else rockin' a standard Sony CRT. I still use my KV-32HS510 for old school gaming.

The R/G/B lines at the top of the screen are called V BLANKING at least on PVM's. Not sure if your model will have that setting.

Neodogg said:

So my brother gave me his old CRT it's a Sony KV-36FS13. Weights a ton (225#), but I think it needs a couple adjustments.
any help would be appreciated, I can get into the service menu and monkey around ok, but I don't know what all the abbreviations mean.

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Below is an extract from the manual for my Sony CRT, I would imagine the names of settings in the geometry menu should be similar / same on yours:

MtothaJ said:

Below is an extract from the manual for my Sony CRT, I would imagine the names of settings in the geometry menu should be similar / same on yours:

View attachment 18729

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Nice, thank you that gives me an idea. I believe there are way more options than those listed. Will try it out tonight

Finally got my PVM 14L2, here are some crappy iPhone photos:




ALTTP is SNES via s-video, Mega Man X is Wii via component.

I spent a good amount of time last night fiddling with the geometry as it had some pretty noticeable issues with bowing at the top, but I managed to iron most of it out. I really wish I understood more of what the various settings did, but I think I did okay with trial and error.

Next step is getting a SCART cable for my SNES!

PC Engine running RGB on a BVM-14M4DE:





Quality is nothing short of breathtaking - just want to join the long line of folks eternally grateful to Broken for the PCE RGB mod kit!

Bancho said:

This is Akumajō Densetsu...

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Weeb.

I gave up trying to find a PVM locally, so I dug into the bowels of my parts boxes and pulled out my old Commodore 1702 monitor and Aura PC speakers. The monitor was filthy and had purple spots in it, and the speakers were even worse with random unidentifiable brown stains on them. Gave them both a good cleaning and did a ghetto degaussing on the monitor, and I must say the quality is outstanding. I used to use this setup back in my first apartment back in the day, I don't think I appreciated how nice the image was then.