Super Neo 29 monitor problem

Bill Kilgore

Bill Kilgore

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So i thought i would clean my monitor and chassis board with some compressed air. Afterwards i turned it on. Now there are very thin horizontal black lines on the sides but in the middle everything is normal.

This is a screenshot from the side:
2enx8af.jpg


This is a screenshot from the middle:
3166adw.jpg


As you can see because of those lines everything on the side looks darker. It's like the pixels are a bit smaller then the ones in the middle.

This seems to be a bit more noticable with dark green and dark blue colors. Could it be that i need to adjust the drive of these colors or is it in need of a cap kit? Light colors like white and yellow don't seem to be affected by this at all.
 
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Bill Kilgore

Bill Kilgore

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I don't think there is anything wrong with the screen itself because i have adjusted the focus and am shocked how much improvement i could get out of it. I had to remove some silicone first so my gues is that the previous owner never really adjusted any of the potentiometers. I also have checked for bad caps and rusty solders but everything looks almost perfectly clean.

I have adjusted every potentiometer out there but the problem persists. The only pot i haven't touched was the voltage one. Could it be that i just need to crank up the voltage? Looking at it logically it could be that there's simply not enough power for some of the electrons to reach the far sides of the screen. Is it safe to fiddle with this just for a little while to see if this improves the situation?

Edit: it's not the voltage. The flyback is a bit buzzy though so maybe i should switch that out for a new one? Does anyone know where to get good flybacks for a Super Neo 29?
 
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chinitosoccer

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What brand is your chassis? if its a Nanao then you are pretty much f****d up, according to the guy from jomac, flyback replacements were never produced, he said that in 30+ years working on arcade monitors he never had to replace the Flyback from a Nanao chassis.
 
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Westcb

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Bill Kilgore said:
I don't think there is anything wrong with the screen itself because i have adjusted the focus and am shocked how much improvement i could get out of it. I had to remove some silicone first so my gues is that the previous owner never really adjusted any of the potentiometers. I also have checked for bad caps and rusty solders but everything looks almost perfectly clean.

I have adjusted every potentiometer out there but the problem persists. The only pot i haven't touched was the voltage one. Could it be that i just need to crank up the voltage? Looking at it logically it could be that there's simply not enough power for some of the electrons to reach the far sides of the screen. Is it safe to fiddle with this just for a little while to see if this improves the situation?

Edit: it's not the voltage. The flyback is a bit buzzy though so maybe i should switch that out for a new one? Does anyone know where to get good flybacks for a Super Neo 29?
Click to expand...


If you are getting a buzz from the fly back you can jam a toothpick in it to make the sound go away. It's most likely just the rattle from the core coming loose. I had a screaming one that was unbearable to be in the same room that took 3 toothpicks. Now it's dead silent. Hopefully that will fix you up, bob Roberts has a guide for that on his website.
 
Bill Kilgore

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Westcb said:
If you are getting a buzz from the fly back you can jam a toothpick in it to make the sound go away. It's most likely just the rattle from the core coming loose. I had a screaming one that was unbearable to be in the same room that took 3 toothpicks. Now it's dead silent. Hopefully that will fix you up, bob Roberts has a guide for that on his website.
Click to expand...

The buzz is not the real problem here, it's the view that get's worse around the edges. It's like the pixels are there but they are just smaller which makes the colors look darker and scanlines look thicker. I'll see if that toothpick solves anything. If not then i can be almost sure it has to be a malfunctioning flyback.
 
Chempop

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I know both LoopyEddie and I have strange darkening/discoloration on our right edge of the tube. We both sorta think it was from tating our monitors.
I have yet to try a degaussing wand, but I have a feeling it might fix the issue.
 
Westcb

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Bill Kilgore said:
The buzz is not the real problem here, it's the view that get's worse around the edges. It's like the pixels are there but they are just smaller which makes the colors look darker and scanlines look thicker. I'll see if that toothpick solves anything. If not then i can be almost sure it has to be a malfunctioning flyback.
Click to expand...


Yeah toothpick only fixes buzz not screen probs. I know if you put a chassis on a tube that has different amount of curve on it you will see problems on the edges like your describing too. If it's the right chassis for that tube you can disregard that statement. Best of luck hope you get a perfect picture out of it.
 
Bill Kilgore

Bill Kilgore

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Chempop said:
I know both LoopyEddie and I have strange darkening/discoloration on our right edge of the tube. We both sorta think it was from tating our monitors.
I have yet to try a degaussing wand, but I have a feeling it might fix the issue.
Click to expand...

This is a silly question perhaps but i'm going to ask it anyway: why would you try a degaussing wand when you got a degaus button in the cab itself? How do those wands work? I would love to try it out.

Also: where can i see the brand of the chassis?

Thx for all the comments so far guys!
 
ebinsugewa

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Bill Kilgore said:
This is a silly question perhaps but i'm going to ask it anyway: why would you try a degaussing wand when you got a degaus button in the cab itself? How do those wands work? I would love to try it out.
Click to expand...

Internal degauss methods are for day-to-day type maintenance. When a picture gets truly discolored etc they're not powerful enough. Get a degaussing ring. They're usually TV repairman type tools but you can still find them on eBay and maybe certain stores local to you. You plug them into an outlet, hold down a button and then wave it over the tube in a few different ways until the problem corrects itself. They're about $30-40, but if you have multiple CRTs they come in handy.
 
Bill Kilgore

Bill Kilgore

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ebinsugewa said:
Internal degauss methods are for day-to-day type maintenance. When a picture gets truly discolored etc they're not powerful enough. Get a degaussing ring. They're usually TV repairman type tools but you can still find them on eBay and maybe certain stores local to you. You plug them into an outlet, hold down a button and then wave it over the tube in a few different ways until the problem corrects itself. They're about $30-40, but if you have multiple CRTs they come in handy.
Click to expand...

Could you give me a link on Ebay because i can't seem to find any degaussing wands or rings.

Edit: nevermind when i searched "degaussing coil" there seems to be some.
 
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Westcb

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Bill Kilgore said:
Could you give me a link on Ebay because i can't seem to find any degaussing wands or rings.

Edit: nevermind when i searched "degaussing coil" there seems to be some.
Click to expand...


http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=131406930337

Here is one. I use that brand not sure about the model number. You use to be able to buy them for like 40ish on Amazon, now the price on most sites seems to start at 60. I guess they don't make as many anymore since crt repair is on is way out.
 
P

pipes

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I had exactly the same issue with my SN29 monitor as well. Exactly the same. I've never seen this with with any other monitor and it drove me crazy. I tried everything and couldn't get rid of that issue. I ended up swapping a Nanao MS9 in there. All fixed.
 
Bill Kilgore

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I got a degaussing wand the other day and the problem persists. Could it be that i have to install a cap-kit? The weird part is that some colors are not affected by this problem at all. Mostly it's just the dark colors.
 
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P

pipes

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Chempop said:
Dang, sorry to hear that it didn’t work.

Did you have to follow this guide? sounds complicated :scratch:
http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27775&p=382990&hilit=hitachi+ms9+replacement#p382990
Click to expand...

That does sound complicated :)

I never used a guide. Just figured it out on my own. The wiring wasn't a big deal, the pain in the ass was having to back mount the monitor. When I put it in initially the bezel had a good 1/4"-3/8" gap all around. Not a fun process but certainly worth the effort.
 
Bill Kilgore

Bill Kilgore

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Hey Pipes, when you had the issue, did you used a cap-kit? I really want to keep the original monitor in the cabinet.
 
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pipes

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Bill Kilgore said:
Hey Pipes, when you had the issue, did you used a cap-kit? I really want to keep the original monitor in the cabinet.
Click to expand...

Yeah, a full re-cap and that didn't seem to do anything. I may be wrong but i believe it's an issue with the tube, not the chassis. I tried everything possible and just like you, I really wasn't too keen on replacing the entire thing. I was trying to convince myself that it wasn't a big deal but it was eating at me. I never heard of anyone else complaining about this issue until seeing your thread and what you describe is word for word the problem I was having. Let me know how it goes.
 
Bill Kilgore

Bill Kilgore

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Damn that sucks to hear. I think i'm just going to do a solder reflow on some of the dried up parts of the monitor chassis once i get some time. i find it hard to believe that it is the monitor itself because some colors just don't have the problem.
 
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