Info: Consolized MV1FZ RGB and Controller points on the bottom of the board

Yodd

Yodd

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Just finished consolizing a MV1FZ board, and thought I would show some pictures of where to grab RGB and Sync and Controller port wiring from the bottom of the board..


IMG_0570%2520%2528Medium%2529.JPG


Via the wire coloring its easy to see whats what. The yellow is sync.


1fz_controls.JPG


I have circled and labeled which point corresponds with which controller wire.



I haven't seen this info anywhere else, so I thought others might benefit from it.


Todd
 
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Xian Xi

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Thanks for taking the time to put this info up.
 
GohanX

GohanX

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A picture is worth a thousand words, this is pretty awesome to have documented. Thank you for this!
 
Yodd

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Thanks guys.

I also have a controller port pinout diagram for the bottom of the MV1B if anyone's interested.
 
Xian Xi

Xian Xi

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broken said:
Thanks guys.

I also have a controller port pinout diagram for the bottom of the MV1B if anyone's interested.
Click to expand...

Post it up but make another thread I think for search purposes.
 
dragonpt

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broken said:
Just finished consolizing a MV1FZ board, and thought I would show some pictures of where to grab RGB and Sync and Controller port wiring from the bottom of the board..


IMG_0570%2520%2528Medium%2529.JPG


Via the wire coloring its easy to see whats what. The yellow is sync.


1fz_controls.JPG


I have circled and labeled which point corresponds with which controller wire.



I haven't seen this info anywhere else, so I thought others might benefit from it.


Todd
Click to expand...

Good stuff Man Thanks

I bought 2 mv1fz that needs some repair.
When done, im gona consolized at least 1, thanks for this mate
 
dragonpt

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started yesterday a new cmvs - 1fz.
Again thanks for the info bro

PS : I dont understand some things on that new stereo circuit (i'm nuub, reading those things), can you tell me some values of the components used? TY
 
Yodd

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dragonpt said:
started yesterday a new cmvs - 1fz.
Again thanks for the info bro

PS : I dont understand some things on that new stereo circuit (i'm nuub, reading those things), can you tell me some values of the components used? TY
Click to expand...

I assume the one from MKL?

stereoj.jpg



You need:

6x 4.7uF 25v Capacitors
2x 10uF 16v Capacitors
4x 1K ohm Resistors
4x 10k ohm Resistors
2x 120k ohm Resistors
2x 680 ohm Resistors
2x 4.7k ohm Resistors
2x 2SC1815 Transistors (you can buy a big bag of these on eBay for just a couple dollars/euros)
1x small perf board


Total cost should be less than $10 with plenty of left over parts for future use.

Obviously Capacitors should be mini electrolytic and can be rated for a higher voltage without any negative effect. I would suggest 1/4 watt resistors or 1/2 watt at the largest to help keep the board smaller.
 
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S

supergoose

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That really does come in handy, since i'm about to mod a 1FZ for myself. Thanks, Todd.
 
dragonpt

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broken said:
I assume the one from MKL?

stereoj.jpg





You need:

6x 4.7uF 25v Capacitors
2x 10uF 16v Capacitors
4x 1K ohm Resistors
4x 10k ohm Resistors
2x 120k ohm Resistors
2x 680 ohm Resistors
2x 4.7k ohm Resistors
2x 2SC1815 Transistors (you can buy a big bag of these on eBay for just a couple dollars/euros)
1x small perf board


Total cost should be less than $10 with plenty of left over parts for future use.

Obviously Capacitors should be mini electrolytic and can be rated for a higher voltage without any negative effect. I would suggest 1/4 watt resistors or 1/2 watt at the largest to help keep the board smaller.
Click to expand...

thanks Mate

bought the parts today, total cost 19.22 Euros

My doubt, was reading those "2SC1815 Transistors" :D
 
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Yodd

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I assume for that 20 Euros you have some spares left over? When I went to buy those 1815 Transistors I ended up buying a bag of 100. So far I have used 4. :lolz:

Here is my completed circuit:

IMG_0567%2520%2528Medium%2529.JPG


IMG_0568%2520%2528Medium%2529.JPG


Its about 1 inch wide by about 1.5 inches long or so. Around half an inch tall and that's with 1/2 watt resistors. I imagine with 1/4 watt resistors and some creative spacing you can shrink it even further.



If there was enough interest, we could do some professional PCBs for these. Credit would go back to MKL since he provided it to us.
 
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M

mmmonkey

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dragonpt has pointed me this way. Great info in here, I want to tidy up my own CMVS now. There's the saying if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but then I've never been happy with the mess of wires coming off of the jamma connector!
 
dragonpt

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mmmonkey said:
dragonpt has pointed me this way. Great info in here, I want to tidy up my own CMVS now. There's the saying if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but then I've never been happy with the mess of wires coming off of the jamma connector!
Click to expand...

xD

I'm doing the same circuit too.
But i'm slow on this things, i'm not a pro like you and Xian

Show me some pictures when your done :P

I'm an big fan of mmonkey, it was your (old) site, that make me started making mods on consoles.
I think i already did more than half the mods on your site (i moded all the consoles i have at home)

Great stuff :P
 
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DEL 707

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Hi Broken, I could really use your help.

Gladly admit I don't really know what I'm doing, but I have the same board as you that I'm trying to wire up.

I've looked at some RGB socket diagrams, and they seem to say I need a wire up component, but I have no idea where to get that from the board.

Here's what I've done so far.
Colours are pretty much corresponding.
White - Sync
Orange - +5v

fmbs.jpg


oxiy.jpg


ienl.jpg


Would really appreciate any aid you can offer.
 
Yodd

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Sorry, I'm confused as to what you need assistance with.


Are you trying to wire that to correspond to the NeoGeo 8 pin din output?

Or something else?
 
DEL 707

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broken said:
Sorry, I'm confused as to what you need assistance with.


Are you trying to wire that to correspond to the NeoGeo 8 pin din output?
Click to expand...

Yep, so I can use the RGB cable I have for my AES.
 
Yodd

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Is it not working or?

lol you really need to provide more info so we can determine what exactly you are asking for.


I see you have the composite sync wired to the composite sync pin on the Neo 8 pin wiring. However, if you are using a standard Neo Euro scart cable, 99% of the time they are wired to use composite video as sync. You can either mod the cable, or the simpler solution would be to move composite sync on your 8 pin din socket over to pin 3 (which would correspond with composite video on a Neo AES).


Does that help?
 
DEL 707

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Broken you are a star, wiring the sync to pin 3 finally gave me a picture! None of the guides I read mentioned that.

Mind if I ask a few questions while I've got you.
The picture seems really bright, is this something I can tweak on the board?
Also how do I wire up the sound?
 
Yodd

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DEL 707 said:
Broken you are a star, wiring the sync to pin 3 finally gave me a picture! None of the guides I read mentioned that.

Mind if I ask a few questions while I've got you.
The picture seems really bright, is this something I can tweak on the board?
Also how do I wire up the sound?
Click to expand...

Glad to hear the sync is worked out.

As far as being too bright, you need to install some resistors on the rgb lines. Anywhere from 125 to 150 ohms should bring it down to a more reasonable level.


As far as audio goes, towards the top of this thread is a circuit to mix and amplifier stereo audio. Otherwise you would grab mono audio from the jamma edge.
 
DEL 707

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Broken, I want to pick your brains for a bit longer, if it's derailing your thread, let me know and I'll start a new 1.

I don't know what much about electronics, other then how to use a soldering iron.
  • With the resistors on the RGB lines, would there be a way to vary the resistance and also do it on all 3 lines at once?
  • The PSU I'm using gives out 5.4v, is this dangerous? If so how would I go about lowering the voltage.
  • In regards to mono audio, which wire do I need to connect up, the +, the - or both? I've tried just touching them on the pin and I get nothing.

Again, if you don't want this here, I'll delete my post and start a thread.
 
Xian Xi

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wyo_vr4 said:
Is there a simple (i.e. just by looking at it) way to tell whether a CMVS is connectable to a cab by the JAMMA port? I had someone ask me this question regarding mine and am too lazy to plug it into my cab to find out: http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?255584
Click to expand...

If the consolization was done correctly then it should plug into a cab no problem. Most open face CMVS units are still able to be put in cabs. The only time they aren't is if the person removed the 7805 for the secondary +5v rails that powers the op-amps in the sound section. As long as those pre-amps are getting +5v and the amp is getting 10-12v then you'll get sound in the cab.
 
T

tawy

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i'm thinking of consolizing a mv1fz i'll get soon and here i am.
i dont post often here, but here is my little contribution to that project. you can upload it on oshpark.com and you'll get a board ready to be soldered. resistors needs to be "upright" like broken did just on post #12.

http://bit.ly/14esjkz
soon i'll receive 3 boards and i only need one. if someone want a board, i can send it. but price on oshpark are unbeatable : 1.13x0.82 inches (29x21mm). $4.60 for three (and i live in france, shipping fee worldwide are free). if something is not like the schematics, please tell me, i'll correct it asap.
 
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