When an Arcade Monitor isn't working...

Just want a general FAQ.

How is the monitor power exactly?

If the monitor seems dead but the power supply is working, what do I check?

Cap kits, are they easy to replace?

What's the most common problem when a monitor goes out?

They use ac voltage in which is different depending on the monitor and region and sometimes age (some 80's monitors stepped down to 100V from 120V via transformer.)

Most monitors require isolation.

Power supply doesn't power monitor. If you have 120V coming from the PS it is strictly pass-through. If monitor appears to have no power, check the AC voltage coming into the power connection. If you have 120 then start checking fuses.

Cap kits are easy but do take some time. Its just "busy work". I've done about 20 personally. They fix about 75% of monitor problems.




As I said, caps are the most common problem. Here is my troubleshooting step by step:

1-What is the monitor doing? Dead? Power but no pic? Distorted pic? Rolling pic? Vertical line only?

2-If no power, is there AC coming in? If so are the fuses ok? Check fuses with a meter not visually. If you're blowing fuses you have a short. It is probably a bad HOT, Flyback (check for cracks) or transistor though in rarer cases it could be a bad cap, diode or resistor.

3-power but no pic is there a signal coming in? Edge connector good? RGB sync cable plugged in correctly?

4-If distorted pic, rolling pic, vertical line and adjustment pots don't help: cap kit.

5-While doing a cap kit check for cold solder on on all header pins.

6-If after you cap the monitor you still have specific problems then break out the schematics and check the sections that would cause your specific problem. Example: If you have vertical collapse, check every semiconductor in the vertical output section. Start with transistors and diodes. If all test good start pulling resistors (not fun).

Some other notes. If after capping you can't sync still you may have bad pots. Failing flybacks can cause dark and out-of-focus pics (caps can also) KLOV forums are a great resource for troubleshooting individual monitors. Compared to pcb repair, monitor repair is easy and can save you tons of money. CRT monitors are getting scarce. Teaching yourself to fix monitors will extend the hobby for years. For example the Electrohome GO7 monitor is considered one of the best monitors still even though it is 30 years old!

Are you sure that the monitor is out?

Try another board.

I'm just saying because I know you bought a legends cab recently, and those video boards take a shit all the time.

It's for a local.

She sent me pics:

http://www.uluvincent.com/images/Arcade_Machines/DSC00048.JPG
http://www.uluvincent.com/images/Arcade_Machines/DSC00049.JPG
http://www.uluvincent.com/images/Arcade_Machines/DSC00050.JPG
http://www.uluvincent.com/images/Arcade_Machines/DSC00051.JPG
http://www.uluvincent.com/images/Arcade_Machines/DSC00052.JPG
http://www.uluvincent.com/images/Arcade_Machines/DSC00053.JPG
http://www.uluvincent.com/images/Arcade_Machines/DSC00054.JPG
http://www.uluvincent.com/images/Arcade_Machines/DSC00055.JPG

She had the caps replaced by someone but it still doesn't power on and he won't return her calls.

Ask her if she can hear a clicking sound from the monitor when the machine is powered up. Polos are good monitors but once they break down they are a bitch to repair. It may need to be sent to a professional if this is the case. Chad at arcadecup.com is very good with these.

The flyback provides the high voltage for the tube, do you hear a crackle when the power is turned on to the cab? Like Mitsurugi said, check the voltage right where the power comes into the board, make sure you get 120V there. With the power off try discharging the tube right under the anode cap: http://www.stickycarpet.com/pinx/md.html

If you don't hear the pop from the discharge then you could have a problem with your flyback. Bob Roberts carries those parts for the Hantarex and he's a good source of info too: http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/parts.html .

If all else fails, consider replacing it with a Wells Gardner or an Electrohome. They are plentiful as well as all their repair parts.

Have you done a google search for the Randy Fromm flowchart for that model? It's probably available from a torrent site. I've got em for some of the WG monitors and they are invaluable tools.

Scott

Thanks guys, I'll let you know how it goes.

She said when she discharged it there was no pop. I asked her to power it on again for a couple minutes and try to discharge again to confirm there is no pop.

When the POLO goes into HV shutdown you can hear an audible clicking sound from the chassis. It is very common on this monitor because it came from the factory with cheap parts. A lot of newer monitors will have the clicking sound when they go into HV shutdown.

What's HV shutdown? Sorry.

Xian Xi said:

What's HV shutdown? Sorry.

Click to expand...

High Voltage?

Yep. Shuts down the high voltage section so that it won't do further damage (flyback, HOT, etc.) Means there is a bad component somewhere that won't allow the monitor to fire up.

She tried again and still no pop, she actually has 2 cabs and both have the same monitor and problem.

Here's what she said:

Neither one gave me a pop. I still have game play, give credits, and
fire the gun, but there is no power to the monitor. Is it possible I
missed something. I do have a few questions about hooking it up. From
the monitor there is a green connector that connects behind the flyback,
there are two slots for this does it matter which one I plug it into?
I've tried both and still have the same results. My second questions is
there are two black cords that come down from the monitor one has a
connector that fits on the board and the other one which I'm unsure of
is a single wire like a ground that I think hooks up just right of the
fuse, just under the rgb monitor adjustments cord. Is this correct?

Click to expand...

So to the monitor for power should there be a 3 lead wire or 2 lead? And the other one I am guessing is the RGBS line, correct?

Mitsurugi-w said:

Yep. Shuts down the high voltage section so that it won't do further damage (flyback, HOT, etc.) Means there is a bad component somewhere that won't allow the monitor to fire up.

Click to expand...

I know this might sound dumb, are all the components for the monitor on a single board or is there more than 1 board? And what component would prevent the monitor from getting power? She said the flybacks were the first things replaced.

Xian Xi said:

She tried again and still no pop, she actually has 2 cabs and both have the same monitor and problem.

Here's what she said:



So to the monitor for power should there be a 3 lead wire or 2 lead? And the other one I am guessing is the RGBS line, correct?

Click to expand...

2 lead in my experiences.

Generally there's just the main board and it's connected to the smaller neckboard. Also the monitor should just have 2 power leads which go to the isolation transformer. Make sure she doesn't try and hook up the monitor straight to the wall outlet!!

The flyback should have the giant red tube with the suction cup on it, that goes to the tube. Then there are also two other wires that go to the neckboard. From this page: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=68655 , one should be focus and the other is screen.

Your best bet is to search every torrent site for the Randy Fromm flowchart because it will have fixes for pretty much any monitor issue. And with a power issue you don't want to be guessing at the solution.

If you have the chassis in front of you, you could put a multimeter on continuity check and follow the circuit from the AC power into the board all the way to the end. Stop when you don't hear the buzzing between two parts.

Scott

Hmm. Can she get you a pic of the monitor all hooked up. Just want to make sure the power cable is actually plugged in. Has she checked for AC coming off the iso?

Ahh..here we go..the Hantarex Polo flowchart.

http://gc339.free.fr/NoticesMoniteurs/Hantarex/Polo/POLO.FlowChart.jpg

Scott

shess said:

Ahh..here we go..the Hantarex Polo flowchart.

http://gc339.free.fr/NoticesMoniteurs/Hantarex/Polo/POLO.FlowChart.jpg

Scott

Click to expand...

Fucking sweet Scott. Thanks a bunch guys. I think this flow chart will help me a ton.

I think we should sticky this thread for monitors in general.

What is the usual fuse for a monitor 125v or 250v?

Depends on region usually. USA and japan would be 125V. Europe would be 250V. That is for the power fuse. Remember the monitor is powered by AC. Some monitors have more than one fuse for more than one purpose.

BTW: A POLO is a bad beginner monitor. Consider yourself unlucky. lol.

I've always wondered this, what bad things can happen from cross bredding chassis? Neckboard from one, actual chassis from another, monitor that neither part should go to but does.

Best case scenario: blow fuses or picture that is TERRIBLE.

Most likely scenario: fire and smoke.

Monitors are finely tuned equipment. The chassis is configured based on the tube. You could for instance put a 19" k7000 version of a chassis with the 25" k7000 version's tube but the largest picture you could get is 19". If you try a different tube and you use an incompatible yoke, you WILL have flames and tears. If you ever break a tube, keep the yoke and the chassis. Replacement tubes can be sourced.

Xian Xi said:

She said when she discharged it there was no pop. I asked her to power it on again for a couple minutes and try to discharge again to confirm there is no pop.

Click to expand...

Just want to add that I have worked with a few monitors that work fine, but there was no "pop" when I discharged them. They don't always pop, but they are discharged if you do it right.

Good Luck!

This link talks about the horizontal/vertical impedance which is one of the major determinants if you can mix and match tubes/chassis: http://www.8liners.com/datatech/monitor.html

I think neckboards and chassis are mated for life but as long as the impedance of the tube yoke matches the impedance of the old yoke and they're the same size, then you can swap the tubes. I have accidentally put an incompatible tube on a chassis and nothing smoked, but the picture just looked bad. I've also done a couple successful tube swaps where the old tube was horribly burned in and the new one came out of an old TV.

If you have the option for WG or Electrohome, I'd go with those. I had a perfectly working Pentranic for sale but the buyer was really hesitant because replacement parts are hard to come by in the event of a failure. Since the Hantarex is a UK based company (I believe), parts will also likely be a little harder to source.

Scott