Consolized CPS2

MKL · Oct 29, 2004

chris1 · Oct 29, 2004

MKL said:
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Whoa..Sweet!!!

Very Nicely Done...

MKL · Oct 30, 2004

Thanks chris

I accidentally deleted the folder, now they're up again

Amano Jacu · Oct 30, 2004

Really nice job, MKL! I have some questions:

1. Did you cover somehow the JAMMA connector? I can't see it in the pics.
2. Is there some reason to put 2 RCA jacks in the rear instead of using the front ones? Amplified sound?
3. Does it use an external PSU?
4. Are the controller ports already wired to the kick harness?

MKL · Oct 30, 2004

Everything that was on the front of the board had to go: jamma edge, aux connector, RCA jacks. It would otherwise be impossible to add the custom front panel.
I then ran the stereo channnels to the back of the unit, both to the jacks (optional to us Euro people) and to the DB15HD connector (they use what would be the hsync and vsync pins on a VGA wiring). I didn't use the amped mono sound from the jamma connector.

It uses a desktop PSU (more powerful than the usual jameco one) that can be seen here:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/CPS2/001.jpg

The DIN plug was too big for thre CPS2 shell so I replaced it with a DB9 plug:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/CPS2/005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/CPS2/007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/CPS2/006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/CPS2/002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/CPS2/003.jpg

The controller ports follow the Neo pinout but also support the extra buttons required by Capcom games. BTW, no soldering was done to the kick harness.

Razoola · Oct 30, 2004

Yes very nice but I'm also wondering about the 2 audio jacks at the back and how is the psu connected? Im quite sure it will be external though because there isnt alot of room inside an 'a' board for one but I diddent seem to see a connector for it.

I like how it appears you have cut the JAMMA connector off the PCB and then covered with plastic, thinking about it is this why you moved the audio jacks?

Raz

MKL · Oct 30, 2004

Yeah, this pic makes it clear:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/cps2portsmounted.jpg

BTW, the rear of the unit is a more natural place for the jacks anyway...

Razoola · Oct 30, 2004

I have a suggestion, you really need a switch on there plus 2 extra joystick ports to allow for four player Dungeons and Dragons games. This could then be controlled by the switch (between dnd and fighters). The button layout for the extra button connector is different for that game. There are also a few 3 player games on CPS2 but I dont remember for the button wiring works for those offhand.

Great work though

Raz

MKL · Oct 30, 2004

4 controller ports was my early plan but I changed it at the last minute because I had this idea of PCB-mounting the ports, to make it look like a factory-made thing. It would in fact be possible to mount 4 ports but not that way as you'd have to cut/drill parts of the board that are vital to its functioning. Anyway, I don't see why a switch would be needed...

RiotoftheBlood · Oct 30, 2004

MKL said:
4 controller ports was my early plan but I changed it at the last minute because I had this idea of PCB-mounting the ports, to make it look like a factory-made thing. It would in fact be possible to mount 4 ports but not that way as you'd have to cut/drill parts of the board that are vital to its functioning. Anyway, I don't see why a switch would be needed...

You can just wire the 4th button to both the JAMMA harness and the kick connector. That's what I've done with the two I've made.

NGT · Oct 30, 2004

looks great! good job.

MKL · Oct 30, 2004

RiotoftheBlood said:
You can just wire the 4th button to both the JAMMA harness and the kick connector. That's what I've done with the two I've made.

Yes, that way you can play D&D with a stick that has the basic 6-button fighting layout:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/11.jpg

However, the sticks I'm going to make will be compatible with both the Neo Geo and Capcom layouts so I won't need to double-wire any button (and will also have a more appropriate D&D layout):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/10.jpg

Your idea on the other hand has a serious flaw in a 4-player setup because the kick harness pin for P1 light kick is also the P3 right direction, so there will be an input conflict that will make it unplayable.
With my wiring (assuming I'll make a 4-player version) no such conflict will happen if all 4 D&D players use 4 button sticks (e.g. Neo sticks) or if P1 and P2 use 4-button sticks and the 7 button sticks are used by P3 and P4.

MKL · Oct 30, 2004

NGT said:
looks great! good job.

thanks!

pixeljunkie · Oct 30, 2004

gonna throw my "thats awesome! Nice work!" on the pile. :buttrock:

Mr-Megalo · Oct 30, 2004

MKL

being the CPS2 fan that I am, I think these are fuckin awesome! :buttrock:

really nice work ! :cool:

C.A.R25 · Oct 30, 2004

Real nice work...

Looks real sweet and neat =)

J0e Musashi · Oct 30, 2004

So, any chance of being able to buy one? I'm in the UK so I don't need any of that JROK silliness. Nice work BTW.

Razoola · Oct 30, 2004

MKL said:
4 controller ports was my early plan but I changed it at the last minute because I had this idea of PCB-mounting the ports, to make it look like a factory-made thing. It would in fact be possible to mount 4 ports but not that way as you'd have to cut/drill parts of the board that are vital to its functioning. Anyway, I don't see why a switch would be needed...

I think you would need some sort of switch because for example in fighters pins 15,17 and 19 of the extra button connectors are player 1 kick buttons but in DnD 15,17 and 19 and player 3 down,left and right. The switch would stop player 1 for interfering with player3 movement by pressing the extra buttons (of course this is assuming they are using a 6 button stick).

Raz

fenikso · Oct 30, 2004

man is that thing pretty :drool_2:

MKL · Oct 30, 2004

Razoola said:
I think you would need some sort of switch because for example in fighters pins 15,17 and 19 of the extra button connectors are player 1 kick buttons but in DnD 15,17 and 19 and player 3 down,left and right. The switch would stop player 1 for interfering with player3 movement by pressing the extra buttons (of course this is assuming they are using a 6 button stick).

Yes, for this see above my reply to riotoftheblood.

MKL · Oct 30, 2004

J0e Musashi said:
So, any chance of being able to buy one? I'm in the UK so I don't need any of that JROK silliness. Nice work BTW.

I'll probably end up selling this one but I'd have to also make sticks for it. This A board is in pretty good shape, especially the top shell (almost scratchless). Too bad most mobos you see on ebay etc. are in poor condition. It would be cool to consolize those brand new mobos arcadeshock sells.

JMKurtz · Oct 30, 2004

Great job MKL. I've never seen a CPS2 system first hand, so this one is a treat to see, well pictures of it... Was there actually a place for pcb mount jacks for the joysticks, or did you drill your own holes into the PCB?

Is the power button and those other buttons (test, volume up down) yours too, or are those on the CPS2 already?

All in all - keep up the great work.

EDIT: How are the games on CPS2 anyway?

Jeff

C.A.R25 · Oct 30, 2004

If you played street fighter Alpha3 etc...

... you have played a capcom CPS2... not nearly as much games as the neo... but most of them are top notch games. Also the sound (Q-sound chip) is better than the neo.

The CPS2 A board is pretty cheap and easy to get IMO, I got mine for $20 and it worked perfectly, the thing I hate about it is that the carts/boards are huge and they got a suicide battery (but there is a way to make games suicide free now).

MKL · Oct 31, 2004

JMKurtz said:
Great job MKL. I've never seen a CPS2 system first hand, so this one is a treat to see, well pictures of it... Was there actually a place for pcb mount jacks for the joysticks, or did you drill your own holes into the PCB?

I had to remove the jacks and the kick harness connector and then drill the holes. The only thing to be careful is that when the screws are in their holes they can short the PCB internal layers that are VCC (+12V in that area) and GND so I got around the problem by putting heat shrink around the screw thread.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/stuff/001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/stuff/002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/stuff/003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/stuff/004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/stuff/005.jpg

The only broken traces that had to be repaired (and this is unavoidable) were those for volume up and down that go to the little switches:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/stuff/006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/nassivera/stuff/007.jpg

JMKurtz said:
Is the power button and those other buttons (test, volume up down) yours too, or are those on the CPS2 already?

The test and volume buttons are built-in. I added the power and fan switches. The latter is where the infamous security seal was. I was definitely lucky to find a button that fits the hole exactly.

MKL · Oct 31, 2004

in action!

Consolized CPS2

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