MVS 2 Slot to 6 Slot cab upgrade PSU questions

[Capitalistix]

I've got an MVS-2-Mini that Id like to upgrade to a 6 slot. Ive got a dead 6 slot Ive been test fitting and physically it seems to fit. My question is PSU related. Ive read where 6 slots require either a specific or certain PSU specs that most 2 and 4 slots dont meet. I need to replace my PSU in this cab regardless as its a little beat up. So my question is, what PSU can I buy that would safely satisfy the requirements of a 6 Slot?

Also, as you can see in the pics, my current PSU has two sets of wires terminating in these connectors. Is this an MVS standard? Or will I have to graft these types of connectors onto the new PSUs wires?









Thank you!

[ack]

Your power supply says it can do 5V @ 15Amps. That's more then enough to power a 6 slot board. The higher power load of a 6 slot tends to cause the power supply to output less then 5V, so you will likely need to tweak it up.

The 3 wire connector is output A/C power plus ground. This would normally be use to power your monitor via the isolation transformer.

The 4 wire connector is for an external on/off switch. 2 of the wires will always be live. In order for the power supply to turn on those 2 live wires need to be jumped to the other 2 wires. On my 4 slot there is an on/off switch inside the coin door that its wired to.

[Capitalistix]

Your power supply says it can do 5V @ 15Amps. That's more then enough to power a 6 slot board. The higher power load of a 6 slot tends to cause the power supply to output less then 5V, so you will likely need to tweak it up.

The 3 wire connector is output A/C power plus ground. This would normally be use to power your monitor via the isolation transformer.

The 4 wire connector is for an external on/off switch. 2 of the wires will always be live. In order for the power supply to turn on those 2 live wires need to be jumped to the other 2 wires. On my 4 slot there is an on/off switch inside the coin door that its wired to.

Perfect, thank you very much. The PSU also has a square 9 pin molex connector, I assume that gives power to the harness then?

Also, if you were to recommend a replacement (Though I now know its not a necessity, thank you for that) simply due to the fact this one is physically not in the best shape (not pictured but the IEC female socket is all screwed up/detached from the cab) and if I just wanted to refurb/future proof it, what PSU might that be?

Also, outside of the specific volt/amperage requirements, does the Wattage of the PSU matter? 150W vs say, 200W? (Im very nubile to current theory/understanding and mostly self taught so I apologize for the very basic questions)

Last question, if I needed to tweak the voltage, on this or another PSU, how would I do that? I didnt see any knobs or potentiometers? Perhaps I didnt look hard enough?

thank you very much!

[daskrabs]

https://na.suzohapp.com/products/pow...ies/80-0072-00

Drop-in PSU for MVS cabs.

[DeWitt]

The PSU also has a square 9 pin molex connector, I assume that gives power to the harness then?

Yes I think so!

Also, outside of the specific volt/amperage requirements, does the Wattage of the PSU matter? 150W vs say, 200W? (Im very nubile to current theory/understanding and mostly self taught so I apologize for the very basic questions)

I'm also a noob at this stuff! But as I known you calculate the power P in watts (W) with voltage V in volts (V) and current I in amps (A) like this:
P = V x I. That means it does not matter if you use volt/amps or watt when you are looking for a PSU.

[DeWitt]

I have also a question. Maybe someone can help me:

I have an MVS-4-25 cap and a MVS-6 board I restored. It works quite well now. Not with every game but that should be PSU related. The only problem I had was the power supply. It has not enough power to power the 6 slot board. So I bought a cheap MIN DONG power supply, what a peace of crap. If you increase the 5V channel you increase the 12V channel too ... So don't buy this !!!

Are there any other good PSUs I can buy in Europe? The suzo happ 150W power pro is out of stock. A suzo happ 200W Pro should work too, right?

Thank you!

[Gmegbln]

This is the PSU I used as a replacement for my 4 slot tall boy:

https://na.suzohapp.com/products/pow...ies/80-0002-10

I got one off ebay for about $45 CAD, it's the same pinout as the OG PSU. Won't fit the original cab's cutout in the back (it's physically smaller, but fan is on the opposite side) so you could mount it slightly recessed (what I did) or cut a little more out of the back so the fan isn't covered slightly. It'll have every connection you need and can even be wired up to the OG cab's power switch for remote turn-on, no muss no fuss.

As with any PSU - check 5v before plugging your boards in. Every good arcade power supply should have a small plastic knob somewhere labeled +5v, which will increase and decrease the voltage on the 5v pin.

[DeWitt]

That sound like a good replacement, thank you!

I always check the 5V and 12V pins before plugging it into my broad! That way I noticed that the MIN DONG power supply is crap...

I checked out the PSU you suggested . There is currently non original available. I only found this one:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Suzo-Happ-20...6ff1%7Ciid%3A1

May I wait just a bit or looking for an other one.

[DeWitt]

Won't fit the original cab's cutout in the back (it's physically smaller, but fan is on the opposite side) so you could mount it slightly recessed (what I did) or cut a little more out of the back so the fan isn't covered slightly.

Do I need a cutout? My cab doesn't have one because my current PSU doesn't have one. The only cutout is one at the top of the cap.

[Gmegbln]

Do I need a cutout? My cab doesn't have one because my current PSU doesn't have one. The only cutout is one at the top of the cap.

I'm referring to the cutout in the back of the wooden cab. The hole that the power supply's fan exhausts out of and that the power cable comes in from. If you wanted to have that particular power supply sit flush with the back, you'd have to cut the left side a little to not block a portion of the fan.

I just set the power supply in a couple of inches away from the back of the cab and screwed it down, with the fan centered more with the cutout. There'll be a gap around it, but I don't think it's a big deal. I mostly don't like the idea of permanently altering the cabinet with new cuts. I intend on making a shroud for it eventually just to keep dust out or whatever, I doubt it'd make a big difference to the airflow

[DeWitt]

The thing is I don't have a cutout at all and I don't want to cut my cab ether... There is only an cutout at the top of the cab, right at the top of the mini marquee. Now I'm unsure if it is okay to run such a PSU without a cutout or will it get to hot inside the cab?

[Gmegbln]

The thing is I don't have a cutout at all and I don't want to cut my cab ether... There is only an cutout at the top of the cab, right at the top of the mini marquee. Now I'm unsure if it is okay to run such a PSU without a cutout or will it get to hot inside the cab?

Sorry, assumed this was an original Neo cab. If you wanted to use that big of a power supply you should make an exaust somewhere. Without any airflow I imagine it'd get very hot.

If you had one of those flat, smaller passively cooled PSUs then you'd probably be ok with no airflow, but I'd definitely cut a hole for the fan and mount it in the back if you wanted to use the HAPP one I linked (or ANY PSU with a fan, really).

[DeWitt]

No problem! I should have told you that!

You are probably right, I need cut a little hole into the back if I want to use such a PSU. I'll think about it! I hate cutting my cab. It's maybe not an original but an relay old one with all the nice little features a normal one has :-)

Thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate it!