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Thread: Internal PSU wiring for CPS2

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    Internal PSU wiring for CPS2

    Hi All,

    I am trying to build a console-ized cps2 and was wondering if there is a wiring guide to internally wiring a power supply inside a CPS2 A Board. I am going to use a pico PSU but I'm not sure how to wire the PSU to the A Board. I did some searches but couldn't find any specific instructions. I've seen some photos of someone using the wires from the molex plug and soldering them near the Jamma fingerboard pins, which I assume is to going to the ground, +12V, and +5V pins. However, I could not find details or an explanation as to which, ground and wire pins were used; since the there are multiple 12v and 5v pins. Or maybe it doesn't matter, I'm not sure.

    Thanks in advance.

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    Never done this but I would assume you would solder them directly to the Ground, 5v, 12v pins of the jamma edge?

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    Quote Originally Posted by titchgamer View Post
    Never done this but I would assume you would solder them directly to the Ground, 5v, 12v pins of the jamma edge?
    My only issue is, is that there are four 5v pin holes,
    two 12v pin holes, and 4 ground pin holes next to the jamma fingerboard connector. So I am not sure which ones to connect it to. Does it matter, or do I need to make sure they are all connected so that the board is properly powered?

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    I have thought about how I would do this myself in the past but never bothered as I have a home built super gun.

    But what I would do if I was you is buy a JAMMA harness and plug the board into that then wire it from that.

    2 reasons for this:

    1) you donít wreck the originality of the board.

    2) Its just easier and simple to alter.

    You will find most of these JAMMA connectors have all the 5v soldered together onto one thick wire etc etc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Vulgar_Ape View Post
    My only issue is, is that there are four 5v pin holes,
    two 12v pin holes, and 4 ground pin holes next to the jamma fingerboard connector. So I am not sure which ones to connect it to. Does it matter, or do I need to make sure they are all connected so that the board is properly powered?
    All of these through holes should share continuity between each other. So all four 5V through holes, if you use a multimeter, should have continuity to the 5V section of the JAMMA edge. Generally that's how the fingerboard should be setup ; all the finger boards I've used have been designed this way, but always check with a multimeter for continuity as it's the only 100% way to confirm this is accurate.

    So whether you put 1, 2, 3, or 4 5V leads from the power supply to the fingerboard, you should have a live 5V signal to all the 5V pads on the edge. Same with 12V and ground.

    If you are using a Pico, I'd wire up all four 5V leads, both 12V, and the grounds. It's a scenario where extra leads aren't an issue.

    When I converted my Beast Busters Second Nightmare board to JAMMA, I ran all the leads. Granted the Hyper is way more power hungry (with its dual layer PCB needing both sides of the 5V line to boot correctly)

    You'd want at LEAST two power leads hooked up. Never a great idea to deliver all your power via one lead. I'd go 18 AWG as well. 20 AWG would probably be fine (although I wouldn't do it myself) but 22 AWG I'd worry about heat dissipation due to the smaller gauge of the wire.

    You can get small packs of 18 AWG on Amazon on the cheap. No need to buy a 25 or 50 foot spool. I keep it around for wiring up any power I may need. I think I bought a "twenty pack of 1 foot long 18 AWG wires" for under $10 last time I needed some. Half were red, and half black. Useful for keeping track of your ground and 5V

    For 12V you could def go 22 AWG. My guess is the through holes may even be smaller for the 12V section. Last fingerboard I used (for my Hyper conversion) wouldn't even accommodate a wire gauge of 18 AWG. 20 would JUST fit, but I went with 22 AWG.

    Hope that helps. If anything wasn't clear just lmk and I'd be happy to clarify further

    (and yes, as mentioned you could just solder every 5V into one thick lead, but I think it's cleaner / nicer to keep them separate. Also using a very short harness does allow for the board to not be "irreversibly" damaged during the process. Granted you could desolder your leads from the edge and use some wick to clean it up, but the harness idea is A) cleaner and B) will actually be a more efficient way of working)

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    Thank you everyone for the reply's. This was a big help.

    Awbacon, I tested the continuity and you were correct. After taking a closer look at the board itself, it now seems obvious that all the different voltages are grouped together. I actually don't have the power supply in yet but I'm interested to test continuity between the grounds within the 20 pin atx connector as well (since it seems to have 7 ground pins).

    Just for clarification, for anyone who may read this in the future, I attached link to a photo showing the Jamma pin through holes in question. https://imgur.com/gallery/vPQvSaq

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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Vulgar_Ape View Post
    Thank you everyone for the reply's. This was a big help.

    Awbacon, I tested the continuity and you were correct. After taking a closer look at the board itself, it now seems obvious that all the different voltages are grouped together. I actually don't have the power supply in yet but I'm interested to test continuity between the grounds within the 20 pin atx connector as well (since it seems to have 7 ground pins).

    Just for clarification, for anyone who may read this in the future, I attached link to a photo showing the Jamma pin through holes in question. https://imgur.com/gallery/vPQvSaq
    That’s what I figured on the fingerboard but without seeing it I had to assume it was possible they didn’t share continuity. Wouldn’t make sense if they didn’t but ya know lol

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