Sammy Atomiswave No Video but Audio

[Igbeserk]

Hey Gents,

Trying to get assistance if possible. purchased a broken atomiswave where PIN 14 (Video GND) on the jamma edge burned out. So it gets audio but no video. I figured for the price doesn't hurt to try to mess around see if I can get it up and running now I'm not the greatest when it comes to soldering or terminology on parts and such so please forgive me. But what I tried to do was recreate the edge connection with copper double sided tape and I get continuity when I check the ground. following the path of the burnt destruction I saw a broken trace where the FL7 is on the board. So i bridged a wire from the trace to (filter?) and also i noticed the other FL's had continuity when you checked both sides so i had to run another wire from the trace to the other side of the FL7. Also it looks like the ZD14 (68N) blew and from what i found online removing it should allow you to test since it is just there to prevent over voltage or something. anyway doing all this no luck not sure where else to look or what i should try to do. i have two jamma connectors a cbox one and a neo jamma with the R, G, B , S wired to a cga/ega/yuv to vga converter. I also tried through the vdo port with a vga cable to my tv as well as through the cga to vga since that as a vga in port as well.


its a bit lengthy sorry guys any direction or guidance would be appreciated a schematic even though i can barely understand them would be good too.


jamma.jpgdac.jpgsolder.jpg

[DasiyAge]

You shouldn't bypass FL7 like that. Those caps are there for a reason. Undo the wiring so we can see whats going on and take a couple of good board pics so I can see if there's something else you might have missed.

[Igbeserk]

You shouldn't bypass FL7 like that. Those caps are there for a reason. Undo the wiring so we can see whats going on and take a couple of good board pics so I can see if there's something else you might have missed.

Hey thanks for the response. here is the original look before I fiddled with it. if its not good enough quality when I get home i'll undo what I did and take another pic.

preboard.jpg

[DasiyAge]

First replace ZD14 in case something is outputting too high a voltage or else you may end up with toasted chips. Replace FL7 with a new cap (probably 0.1uF but confirm that first). Then check the voltages of the RGB lines, power, and sync with a multimeter and let me know what you find. After that it's basically deduction and following the video path on the board until you run into something. Keep me posted, I'll be around.

[Igbeserk]

First replace ZD14 in case something is outputting too high a voltage or else you may end up with toasted chips. Replace FL7 with a new cap (probably 0.1uF but confirm that first). Then check the voltages of the RGB lines, power, and sync with a multimeter and let me know what you find. After that it's basically deduction and following the video path on the board until you run into something. Keep me posted, I'll be around.

Thanks again for the response! Cool I can try to replace them I'm not the greatest at this. what part do I need exactly for FL7 and ZD14. Since you said 0.1uf I'm guessing microfarad capacitor? Also searching for the ZD14 which I feel like is the 68N like the others. But yea searching for it I can't find what it is or where to get it . But I'll keep researching and let you know! And one last thing was my wiring correct to bridge it all since the trace was broken?

[DasiyAge]

Not too sure about the 68n, I'll have to look for it when I'm home again. As for your wiring, the only thing I don't agree with was the wire you placed from end to end of the capacitor. You essentially bypassed it and ran power through it that way and idk what the adverse effects of that can be. As for the broken trace yes, copper tape and some solder to bridge it was a good move.

[Igbeserk]

Not too sure about the 68n, I'll have to look for it when I'm home again. As for your wiring, the only thing I don't agree with was the wire you placed from end to end of the capacitor. You essentially bypassed it and ran power through it that way and idk what the adverse effects of that can be. As for the broken trace yes, copper tape and some solder to bridge it was a good move.

So doing some research is looks like the ZD14 - is a SOT-23-5
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small-...OT23-5,_SOT353
i guess the 68N indicates what it outputs or inputs but i can't seem to find any with 68N on it i saw one with 0DN but i don't understand a lot of these stuff still looking for a data sheet. for the FL7 a friend of mine who does this type of stuff more than i could doesn't believe its a capacitor. I've used my multi meter and set it to ohms 200k, 20k, 2000, 200. under 200k i get various ranges from 08.00 to as low as 0.08 under 20k i get around 0.90 to 0.75 under 2000 i get 800 to 700 and under 200 it just is a 1. and i cannot be certain since the trace is broken and the area was burnt when i got it if the readings are good or not.

also for the sot researching online i might be able to remove one and place it on the zd14 say from the zd8 which controls part of the joystick so as long as i don't have a controller plugged in i could test it because of course biggest concern is if i get video or not.

with the 68n i found an aliexpress link but no real info and out of stock.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32295467931.html

[NexusX]

You know the Atomiswave has VGA out right? You could just use that for video out.

[Igbeserk]

You know the Atomiswave has VGA out right? You could just use that for video out.

yep i have connected it through vga to my tv with vga connection and i get no video still. right now since the FL7 and the ZD14 are damaged i need to replace them unless you're saying that regardless of the jamma pin 14 (video ground) and the traces that blew from that. i should still be able to get video through vga? i have connected it directly to vga on my tv as well as through the cga to vga converter i have in the 2nd pic on the first post which has a vga input and output and still got no video.

[DasiyAge]

So doing some research is looks like the ZD14 - is a SOT-23-5
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small-...OT23-5,_SOT353
i guess the 68N indicates what it outputs or inputs but i can't seem to find any with 68N on it i saw one with 0DN but i don't understand a lot of these stuff still looking for a data sheet. for the FL7 a friend of mine who does this type of stuff more than i could doesn't believe its a capacitor. I've used my multi meter and set it to ohms 200k, 20k, 2000, 200. under 200k i get various ranges from 08.00 to as low as 0.08 under 20k i get around 0.90 to 0.75 under 2000 i get 800 to 700 and under 200 it just is a 1. and i cannot be certain since the trace is broken and the area was burnt when i got it if the readings are good or not.

also for the sot researching online i might be able to remove one and place it on the zd14 say from the zd8 which controls part of the joystick so as long as i don't have a controller plugged in i could test it because of course biggest concern is if i get video or not.

with the 68n i found an aliexpress link but no real info and out of stock.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32295467931.html

Here is the 68n transistor: https://www.amazon.com/huaban-HZM6-8.../dp/B01NAP40QA
It is definitely a capacitor, 0.1uF is my guess (don't have anything else to go off of except other arcade boards) but if it wasn't a capacitor, say a resistor, it would have number markings indicating the resistance value.
EDIT: Confirming the capacitor Value with Xian Xi, and if Amazon is not a viable option for you search MPAK-5 6.8v and a few different options are available

[Igbeserk]

Here is the 68n transistor: https://www.amazon.com/huaban-HZM6-8.../dp/B01NAP40QA
It is definitely a capacitor, 0.1uF is my guess (don't have anything else to go off of except other arcade boards) but if it wasn't a capacitor, say a resistor, it would have number markings indicating the resistance value.
EDIT: Confirming the capacitor Value with Xian Xi, and if Amazon is not a viable option for you search MPAK-5 6.8v and a few different options are available

Thanks for the link i guess i'll have to be patient coming from china. i tried searching for mpak-5 6.8v and what i'm finding looks completely different. I saw one that might work but it as well is coming from china.

alright i'll try to find a replacement capacitor that is 0.1uf. or rather i'll wait til you get confirmation. thanks!

[Igbeserk]

by any chance anyone have a link or part number for that FL7 cap? I tried to take the ZD8 and put it on the ZD14 to test but since I undid the bridge I did at fl7 the bottom part of the cap I cannot solder to. so I definitely need a replacement for that.

[DasiyAge]

Don't power on your board without all the components! The ZD8 and ZD14 are Zener Diode Power Surge protectors meaning they only allow the power to flow in one direction and can absorb high voltage spikes. If you power the board without these you risk voltage going backwards and shorting other ICs or high voltage blowing out a cap on the JAMMA edge. Just search 0.1uF Ceramic Cap SMD and get one from wherever is cheapest for you. EDIT: And what do you mean you cannot solder to the bottom of it? did you pull up a pad?

[Igbeserk]

Don't power on your board without all the components! The ZD8 and ZD14 are Zener Diode Power Surge protectors meaning they only allow the power to flow in one direction and can absorb high voltage spikes. If you power the board without these you risk voltage going backwards and shorting other ICs or high voltage blowing out a cap on the JAMMA edge. Just search 0.1uF Ceramic Cap SMD and get one from wherever is cheapest for you. EDIT: And what do you mean you cannot solder to the bottom of it? did you pull up a pad?

Thanks for that! nope I didn't blow anything. But where the fl7 cap is the part closest to the jamma edge the pad there was gone but the cap still had some solder on the cap itself so I was able to bridge from the trace to the cap but when I removed it since I had bridge the cap from the bottom to the top so I undid all that but there was barely anything there which made it harder to use my multimeter but when I went back to wire the trace to the bottom of the fl7 the remaining solder on it I guess disappeared. so yea. when I get a chance i'll take a pic but the pad underneath it was gone already.

I will take a pic when I get home but the cap should have 3 solder points on it. front and back and on the underside in the middle going across.

[Igbeserk]

see the picture i've attached the bottom pad is gone it came that way but whatever solder that stuck to the bottom of that cap is gone also if you look it has 3 solder points top middle and bottom but the caps i see only have top and bottom solder points nothing for the middle.

20190816_200857.jpg

[DasiyAge]

Use a multimeter to find out what that middle connection goes to, I can't imagine what that's for.

[Igbeserk]

I went to another forum that dealt with chips and such to get info and they informed me it looks to be this or something like this. https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1-2-ND/2595179

the middle section is ground when I run the multimeter from that to a ground point it has continuity. now in terms of the chip putting the multimeter on the other FL's the top and bottom gave me continuity so I think the way I initially wired it up wasn't bypassing it but who knows I'm not too good with this. i'll try to order those and I'm waiting on the ZD's to come in and see if it does the trick. Thanks again will update when they arrive or if I find something closer/sooner.