Trying to find Mv1B Board connectors

DaisyAge

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I'm looking for the type of connectors used to hold the cartridge slot to the main board. I'm trying to make a 1B into a 1C. Why? I don't know I have a lot of spare time I guess. I know it's possible because I see units like this sold on AliExpress. Any help would be cool :cool:
 

BIG BEAR

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You want just the connectors? or the whole piece with the cartridge slots ?
BTW , I was looking at that and it didn't look like a straight up plug and play....
BB
 

Finch

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If the 1B boards are coupled together with the same connectors as the 1Fz then what you need are KEL 8811-100-170L-F, but unfortunately it seems like KEL no longer manufactures this connector, and nobody has any in stock. I was trying to do the same thing with a 1Fz board I had lying around and was unable to get the right angle plugs needed for the main board to allow it to connect horizontally with the right angle connectors on the secondary board.

Where I'm at right now is sourcing another brand of connector that has the same pin arrangement and 100-position contact that does make right angle plugs AND receptacles and I'm going to simply replace all 4 plugs on the 1Fz. (The big white connector in-between the two black connectors on the 1fz is purely for structural support, not a single pin is connected to anything and all 48 pins are connected to eachother, it can be ignored)

I just received some samples of a TE-Connectivity connector that looks promising, I will let you know if they work. It's possible there is another brand of connector that mates with the KEL connectors SNK used, but I have not found one, as most other brands use D shaped plugs for these kinds of connectors rather than the rectangular with keys that KEL uses. When I feel lke playing with the heatgun I'll swap for the TE connectors and test. Just need to make sure the pass-through order for the pins is the same on these as the KEL.

For reference, the TE connectors are part #1-1734099-0 (plug) and #1-1734037-0 (receptacle)

UPDATE: The TE connectors will not work because their pin arrangement isn't the same as the original connectors. Both the TE and KEL connectors have all 100 pins in 4 rows with the odd rows offset 1/2 pin from eachother. The TE connectors have the same rows offset for the plug and receptacle, the KEL have the even rows offset for the plug, and the odd rows offset for the receptacle. Additionally, the KEL pins have an odd pass through order. The TE connectors make sense, pin1 on row 4 connects to pin 1 on row 4 on the other side, the KEL have pin 1 row 4 on the plug connect to pin 1 row 3 on the receptacle.

Unfortunately none of these plugs I've been researching really show the order the pins connect, mostly because your designing a product around them, not trying to replace something else, it's really hard to know the pin arrangement and connection order ahead of time. I ordered samples of a ton of other brands of similar connectors, so we will see if any of the others work when they arrive.

UPDATE #2. One supplier got back to me and can order the proper KEL part, unfortunately I have to order $24 of them for ~$60, I really don't want to still not even knowing if it's going to work out. I received another sample from another company today that will also not work :(
 
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DaisyAge

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Thank you Finch, I figured as much. Boredom breeds creativity and well, there just isn't a lot going on right now haha. Good luck with those KEL connectors though, I think $60 is a bit too high for me to really get into it. Especially since it sounds like they're not produced anymore, I'd run out eventually.

Edit: I found a picture and it doesn't look like they swapped connectors after all BB, good eye lol. HTB1aonJcIuYBuNkSmRyq6AA3pXa8.jpg
 
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b0bi

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Thank you Finch, I figured as much. Boredom breeds creativity and well, there just isn't a lot going on right now haha. Good luck with those KEL connectors though, I think $60 is a bit too high for me to really get into it. Especially since it sounds like they're not produced anymore, I'd run out eventually.

Edit: I found a picture and it doesn't look like they swapped connectors after all BB, good eye lol. View attachment 54290

That image seems to be from the CMVS that is sold in eBay.

I'm also looking to transform MV1FZ, if you have some new information about good connectors please share :)
 

Finch

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That image seems to be from the CMVS that is sold in eBay.

I'm also looking to transform MV1FZ, if you have some new information about good connectors please share :)

Interesting looking at that picture, the vertical connectors are still there on the main board, so what did they do? Looks like a ribbon cable or something, but to where?

I've also been looking into if KEL makes ribbon cables that are compatible with these connectors, but they seem to only make the Male plugs for crimping onto ribbon cables, as it's assumed all the boards your connecting a ribbon cable to are female plugs, so no luck there so far. Without changing one set of plugs. I was originally hoping to find a solderless option with cables, but no luck. Desoldering these connectors should be doable with a good heat gun, but I'd rather not if possible. I'll make sure to update here if I ever find anything. I have a lot more samples on the way, so maybe some of them will work.
 
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dragonpt

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Wow this is so nice

I would love to mod one of my 1fz's
 

Finch

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Wow this is so nice

I would love to mod one of my 1fz's

That's exactly what I'm trying to do, I really like the 1Fz board, socketed Bios, convenient layout and less sought after than the 1C, but I just can't find a good way to enclose it in it's normal configuration without it being overly bulky, or really hard to remove the cartridge.

I'll let you know if I ever find a solution. Obviously you can solder ribbon cables onto the solder points on the bottom of the board, but holy hell it would be a pain in the ass, especially because the pins aren't a straight mirror on either side, the rows are kind of scrambled. So far no luck. I can order a whole bag of what are supposed to be the correct part, but even then it seems like the boards might be too far apart for them to properly connect and it would require shaving 5mm or so off one of the boards. There is nothing there that will stop me, no traces that will get ruined, but I really don't want to have to cut PCBs to make this work.
 

DaisyAge

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I think designing a ribbon cable to attach the 2 boards would be easier than finding the connectors and shaving the pcb. I'll look into it later, building a cmvs for a friend at the moment
 

Neo Alec

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Just buy the AliExpress system and throw the enclosure away. At least you'll satisfy your curiosity.
 

Finch

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I think designing a ribbon cable to attach the 2 boards would be easier than finding the connectors and shaving the pcb. I'll look into it later, building a cmvs for a friend at the moment

It would be, except that KEL doesn't make female connectors for for ribbon cables, only male, which means you would have to swap the male connectors on the main board for female. Some cables would be best, I agree, but it can't be done without de-soldering connectors anyways.
 

DaisyAge

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I was thinking just a ribbon cable that could be soldered to both the undersides something like this but solder on both sides
WyblW.jpg
 

Finch

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I was thinking just a ribbon cable that could be soldered to both the undersides something like this but solder on both sides
View attachment 54374

You would think that would be a good idea, until you look at the underside of the board and see that there are 4 rows of 25pins for each connector, and those rows don't match up.

If you flatten the boards out and flip them over and look at the underside you see all the pins that need to be connected. If we number the pin rows as 1 being closest to the edge of the board, and 4 being the furthest away it would look like this.

Cart Slot board-----------Mainboard
4 3 2 1--------------------1 2 3 4

You would think that row1 pin1 on the card slot board would match to row1 pin1 on the mainboard.....but it fucking doesn't. Row1 pin1 connects to Row2 pin 1. So you would essentially be soldering ribbon cables that need to trade places somewhere in between the two boards. It pretty much has to be individual wires.
 
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DaisyAge

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Yeah didn't think it would be easy lol. I figure this endeavor is pretty much in vain
 

NexusX

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Yeah didn't think it would be easy lol. I figure this endeavor is pretty much in vain

Many people have tried to find a quick "clip on" solution to making a 1B a top loader. Never panned out. I am having someone make a PCB that may work though. Requires desoldering the connectors and soldering mount pins to the PCBs though. So may be more work than you want. May just be better to suck it up and pay the $60+ for the 1C board.
 

Finch

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Many people have tried to find a quick "clip on" solution to making a 1B a top loader. Never panned out. I am having someone make a PCB that may work though. Requires desoldering the connectors and soldering mount pins to the PCBs though. So may be more work than you want. May just be better to suck it up and pay the $60+ for the 1C board.

A slightly simpler option I just came up with would be de-soldering the straight plugs on the main board and replacing them with right angle receptacles, then get some little strips of PCB that you can fit into both plugs and have them made with 50 straight across contacts on the top and bottom. It could work like a bridge between the two receptacles.
 

BIG BEAR

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That's a good idea.Something like a JAMMA finger board would be the bridge. The finger board would probably be something not too difficult to have made.
BB
A slightly simpler option I just came up with would be de-soldering the straight plugs on the main board and replacing them with right angle receptacles, then get some little strips of PCB that you can fit into both plugs and have them made with 50 straight across contacts on the top and bottom. It could work like a bridge between the two receptacles.
 

NexusX

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A slightly simpler option I just came up with would be de-soldering the straight plugs on the main board and replacing them with right angle receptacles, then get some little strips of PCB that you can fit into both plugs and have them made with 50 straight across contacts on the top and bottom. It could work like a bridge between the two receptacles.

I had a buddy do that. And he said it was a nightmare of work. That was what gave me the idea for the small passthrough PCB. It looked cool after he was done though. I will have to see if he still has pics of it outside of the enclosure he made. If he finds them I will post pics of his work.
 

DaisyAge

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I actually came across that before, must've slipped my mind. I think that pcb is probably the best bet at making a horizontal to vertical adapter an attainable reality.
 

NexusX

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I actually came across that before, must've slipped my mind. I think that pcb is probably the best bet at making a horizontal to vertical adapter an attainable reality.

That saved me a lot of time. I just ordered 20 of them made. When they come in I can send some out to those interested.
 

Finch

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That saved me a lot of time. I just ordered 20 of them made. When they come in I can send some out to those interested.

I might take a few of those off your hands when you get them.
 

BIG BEAR

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That looks exactly like what perfect did...NICE! I'd be down for a few too.
BB
 
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