MVS Consolizer v0.1 PCB

Shinchan

n00b
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Feb 18, 2017
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42
Will solder myself for cost saving$

Why not offer pre-soldered for x$ and in a kit for for some amount <x$
 
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After a bit of investigating, I'm finding a supplier of the 9 pin mini DIN sockets at a good price difficult. I don't think this will reduce prices significantly over a SCART, but it would make things smaller. I also feel if I supply the board with a SCART socket I don't need to supply a cable, which would overall reduce cost. I'm also switching from a barrel jack for power to a micro B USB socket. Again that reduces footprint, manufacture cost and the need to ship with a region specific PSU.

I'm also considering dropping out the RGB potentiometers for fixed resistors.
 
Joined
May 20, 2019
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Will solder myself for cost saving$

Why not offer pre-soldered for x$ and in a kit for for some amount <x$

Definitely something I've considered!

I currently make and sell NVRAM modules for pinball on eBay and hand soldering a batch is a boring day of labour! The next revision of the board will move from through hole (THT) to surface mount (SMD) where possible allowing for automated manufacture. However the JAMMA edge and possibly the SCART socket may still need hand soldering. It is all dependent on what the fab house in China is capable of – this is my first time designing a board for outsourced assembly!
 

Hawwa

B. Jenet's Firstmate
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Sep 21, 2018
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After a bit of investigating, I'm finding a supplier of the 9 pin mini DIN sockets at a good price difficult. I don't think this will reduce prices significantly over a SCART, but it would make things smaller. I also feel if I supply the board with a SCART socket I don't need to supply a cable, which would overall reduce cost. I'm also switching from a barrel jack for power to a micro B USB socket. Again that reduces footprint, manufacture cost and the need to ship with a region specific PSU.

I'm also considering dropping out the RGB potentiometers for fixed resistors.

Changing barrel jack for microusb it's a great idea.

Not fond of fixed resistors myself. If you change from a LCD TV to a CRT (or the other way around) you may have to tweak the color strength...
 

nono2lozere

Quiz Detective
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Mar 6, 2017
Posts
80
After a bit of investigating, I'm finding a supplier of the 9 pin mini DIN sockets at a good price difficult. I don't think this will reduce prices significantly over a SCART, but it would make things smaller. I also feel if I supply the board with a SCART socket I don't need to supply a cable, which would overall reduce cost. I'm also switching from a barrel jack for power to a micro B USB socket. Again that reduces footprint, manufacture cost and the need to ship with a region specific PSU.

I'm also considering dropping out the RGB potentiometers for fixed resistors.

Micro-USB for power? It's difficult to find USB power supply with more than 2 A output current, so it will be difficult to give enought juice for NeoSD for exemple.
And for RGB you should use a RGB buffer in order to have standardised output voltage and impedance (1V cc at 75Ω).
 

blotter12

Kabuki Klasher
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Nov 15, 2013
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129
I'd be interested in one if I could connect it to an NTSC TV (not sure if this is a non starter in terms of price/complexity).
 
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Neo Alec

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Not interested in one for myself, but...

Stick with a barrel jack for power. Easier to find an appropriate supply this way.

I don't believe there is a one-size-fits-all RGB resistor value for MVS boards, so you will have to stick with pots.

I agree scart is easier, since people won't need a custom cable.

Not sure how much people agree, but stereo is a must-have for me. If a system supports it, it should be used. Mono setups are a pet peeve of mine.
 

Hawwa

B. Jenet's Firstmate
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Sep 21, 2018
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408
I disagree with the microusb hate XD

Nowadays you can easily find "good enough" microusb PSU with 3A (which is the specified amps for MV1C e.g.)

I agree with Neo Alec with the stereo but I know that you also have to think about the people that doesn't know/want to learn how to solder. But those will have to deal with a 5V/12V PSU also so... I really don't know what is best.
 
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Micro-USB for power? It's difficult to find USB power supply with more than 2 A output current, so it will be difficult to give enought juice for NeoSD for exemple.
And for RGB you should use a RGB buffer in order to have standardised output voltage and impedance (1V cc at 75Ω).

How much additional current does the NeoSD draw?

As of USB 3.1 spec it's now more common to find 3A wall warts. The official Raspberry Pi PSU would be a good option. If I were to include a world wide adaptor in the package it's easier to source for sure.

Great point on the impedance matching. I'm going to spend some time investigating watch options are available.
 

nono2lozere

Quiz Detective
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Mar 6, 2017
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How much additional current does the NeoSD draw?

As of USB 3.1 spec it's now more common to find 3A wall warts. The official Raspberry Pi PSU would be a good option. If I were to include a world wide adaptor in the package it's easier to source for sure.

Great point on the impedance matching. I'm going to spend some time investigating watch options are available.

I don't know how much current the NeoSD draw but power supply is a common issues with it in arcade cabinet or AES.
 

HeavyMachineGoob

My poontang misses Lenn Yang's wang
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5,816
If it has RGB inputs it should be fine.

Which most American NTSC TVs don't. The NTSC folks in here would have to use an RGB monitor or obtain a video converter, RGB SCART in and composite/s-video/component out.
 

GohanX

Horrible Goose
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12,490
A video encoder would likely double the cost and complexity of this. Leave it off, let the builder provide their own if they wish, I'm sure it would be easy enough to tap the RGB signals from the scart connector if doing an internal build, or just use a scart converter if external.
 

Neo Alec

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Which most American NTSC TVs don't. The NTSC folks in here would have to use an RGB monitor or obtain a video converter, RGB SCART in and composite/s-video/component out.
Yeah. External scart converters really make this a non-issue.
 

Heinz

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How much additional current does the NeoSD draw?

As of USB 3.1 spec it's now more common to find 3A wall warts. The official Raspberry Pi PSU would be a good option. If I were to include a world wide adaptor in the package it's easier to source for sure.

Great point on the impedance matching. I'm going to spend some time investigating watch options are available.

A 2.1/2.5mm barrel jack would be preferable as it greatly increases your power supply options. I'd opt for 3A at the minimum but quality of the supply should be the utmost focus.

Ultimately someone will want to enclose this and really the only thing required to speed that process up would be to have the DB15's pre mounted and leave the rest as breakout solder points. It would make it much cheaper to produce and far more customisable.
 
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titchgamer

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May 31, 2018
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A 2.1/2.5mm barrel jack would be preferable as it greatly increases your power supply options. I'd opt for 3A at the minimum but quality of the supply should be the utmost focus.

Ultimately someone will want to enclose this and really the only thing required to speed that process up would be to have the DB15's pre mounted and leave the rest as breakout solder points. It would make it much cheaper to produce and far more customisable.

The breakout points would be great but it would be better still if they were screw terminals or quick release.
 
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May 20, 2019
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Quick update on some progress I've made this weekend:

  • I've jerry-rigged up a step up buck converter to provide +12v. On my MV-1A this seems to peak out at 1.5a with a 161 in 1 (I don't have a NeoSD), so have added a similar design to the board. This makes the board true plug and play. But case builders will still be able to tap stereo in and disable the buck.
  • I'm going to move from pots to a video amplifier (THS7374) that offers balanced impedance (thanks for the tip nono2lozere).
  • Adding composite and S-Video (e.g. building in a JROC / Neobitz) would add around $10 to the overall cost. I'm considering it as it would make the board usable for a lot more people (especially those in NTSC-land).

The feedback here is really helpful! Clear there's lot of views on the ideal board. So my focus is on being as plug-n-play as possible. But allowing a case builder with a soldering iron enough flexibility.
 

Finch

Hardened Shock Trooper
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Jul 14, 2009
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431
This seems really cool. I don't mind soldering stuff and have manually consolized NeoGeo boards before, but I would be totally tempted to buy one of these simply for keeping the interior of a CMVS cleaner. Controller ports are a major rat-nest of wires no matter what.
 
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Screenshot 2019-06-20 at 6.12.49 pm.png

Been doing a lot of very boring research and planning, but just wanted to give a bit of an update on progress:

  • Now true "plug n play".
  • Pots switched for video amp – giving perfect matched impedance and a clean signal.
  • 12v step-up on board and attenuated audio out.
  • Significantly reduced size of the board (and it was small before).
  • Underside connectors: USB power in and 8-pin DIN AV out (same connections as AES).
  • Many components now SMD.
  • Case builder friendly.

Any thoughts or feedback? Everyone's help so far has been brilliant.

I'm anticipating I'll be able to get this in to production in around 3 months from now. Once the new board is with me I'll know better. I'll open up orders over at wizardmodegames.com
 
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