If you have any tech questions or issues concerning the omega, please ask here. Trying to keep the place tidy and keep other threads on track.
If you have any tech questions or issues concerning the omega, please ask here. Trying to keep the place tidy and keep other threads on track.
Hi Mike, can you post the Omega's RGB scart diagram so I know in which pins to connect a sync stripper? Thanks
Disconnect the yellow wire from the scart connector and connect it to the input line on the lm1881. Connect the csync output to pin 20 on the scart end. Power is the brown wire and ground is the gray one.
Last edited by Nickrb; 05-17-2014 at 04:42 PM.
Nice eviltim diagram
Originally Posted by Green Beret
thanks mike.
Disconnect the yellow wire from the scart connector and connect it to the input line on the lm1881. Connect the csync output to pin 20 on the scart end. Power is the brown wire and ground is the gray one.
He does good work. Throw in a little mspaint action, and voila.Nice eviltim diagram
Fuck yeah. John is the best!
No arguments there. I used his diagram for my cmvs too. Just poking fun
Looking to find out what blures my RGB outpul. Are there any incline resistors in the Omega and before the RGB output? If yes can they be changed with pull-down ones?
You don't need the drop down resistors, the Omega is using a video encoder. It has resistors inline (not incline) on the RGB out lines on the encoder circuit itself. I think I remember shadow saying they are surface mounted resistors so they will be quite small and a bit more difficult to work with.
My soldering skills are bad. I have ordered a sync strpper to be placed inside my scart hood from an expert, shodow told me it might help. If it doesn't, can an expert work with Omega's inline resistors?
You'll need someone to handle removing surface mount resistors. After you remove them, you'll need to bridge the two resistor pads.
How much ohm should I put. My AES with bypass mod works fine with pull-down 75ohm
It should be zero ohms. A solder blob or thin gauge wire will do the trick. You don't need the pull down resistors because the voltage levels already at the proper 0.7vpp. Depending on how you do the bypass mod, the voltage levels are 3-5vpp which is why pull down resistors are necessary.
If RGB is blurry it's usually an indication of missing ground.
I got my Omega a couple months ago. Loving it so far!
I'm having an issue with it saving soft dip though. It seems once I turn off the system, it doesn't remember any soft dip settings for any game. Additionally it never remembers the previously set region (not sure if it's supposed to though).
I don't think this has ever worked correctly.
I tried leaving it on for 24 hours to charge the battery, and it still doesn't hold soft dip settings even when simply turning off and right back on.
Maybe I'm doing something wrong to set the dips?
I go into test mode with BCD on startup, select soft dips, make changes, hit C to leave the menus, and then select Exit from the main test menu. Game boots and soft dips are working. Turn machine off and back on, soft dips gone.
Any ideas guys?
Mine does save the region settings (100% sure), however I think it does not save anything else, like highest scores or dip settings.
Regards.
Mine also does NOT save the region / dip setting . It always default back to europe / MVS . I left it 24H to charge like you and it still didn't save even with a quick power off / power on.
battery sounds hosed.
Thanks, that's what I was guessing but I want to eliminate user error.
I'm pretty sure my battery was never working in the Omega. Mine in the one with the built in memory card. Maybe that has something to do with it?
How hard is it to replace the battery? I was hoping I wouldn't have to dig around in there but I'm game for it if it can fix this thing.
Agreed. I have mine set to US and arcade and it always starts with that mode. Never changed the dips yet. Whenever a computer stops retaining the settings my first guess is the battery.
*It should be in an obvious location. Haven't needed to open my system yet. Easy as pop it out and insert a new one. Replacements are easy to find. Or should be anyway, what's the name, CR 2032?
Last edited by NewNeoOwner; 08-13-2014 at 10:55 AM.
It isn't in a socket, it's soldered in and you need a good amount of heat to remove the ground pin.
Oh really? Huh. That's unusual. I guess making the battery replaceable isn't part of the consolization process.
It is in my units but I think Quan wanted to retain the charging system for the long run but sometimes these old parts go bad.
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