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  1. #1
    . Whippy's Avatar
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    MV1C Battery holder & cart slot modifications?

    I am new to MVS modifications, and as such I purchased a prebuilt unit. After a few months of ownership, I have a few things that I can do, and I do believe this board will work for me in the long run.

    My first issue is that this model came without any battery or holder. I understand the reasoning on this, as the older batteries were soldered to the holder and would leak. I have since replaced the battery with a coin cell holder with wire because the posts are not the same size as the board, and honestly it looks like shit. I would love to obtain the OEM holder so I can modify my current holder to be the best of both worlds. Perhaps there is a guide I am missing for doing exactly what I want.

    My other question involves altering the cart slot. Is there any 90 degree risers for this unit? I would love to reduce the amount of vertical space this unit takes up with a cart. Other units have this "feature" by default. Is is possible to re-purpose this connection? This is the least of my worries, but I would enjoy this fitting better under my tv with this sort of method.

    Thanks for any tips/tricks/info

    -W

  2. #2
    Krauser's Shoe Shiner
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    The coin cell holder isn't hard. A vertical battery holder is cheap and easy to get. $5 on the worst of days unless you have a bad vendor and an idiot. The rechargable 2032 may cost you about $5 or $7. Solder in the new holder and you are fine. As far as the 90 degree riser goes. There are none for the MV1C boards that I am aware of. You may want to look into a 1B or 1F for a low profile 1 slot board. A MV1B is about 50 bucks so not a huge investment.

  3. #3
    . Whippy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NexusX View Post
    The coin cell holder isn't hard. A vertical battery holder is cheap and easy to get. $5 on the worst of days unless you have a bad vendor and an idiot. The rechargable 2032 may cost you about $5 or $7. Solder in the new holder and you are fine. As far as the 90 degree riser goes. There are none for the MV1C boards that I am aware of. You may want to look into a 1B or 1F for a low profile 1 slot board. A MV1B is about 50 bucks so not a huge investment.
    Thanks for the response! I had found that a seller on the interwebs had a "Dreamcast battery replacement kit" with the rechargeable ML2032 & holder and it works great, but the connections on the holder are not the same as the MVS connections, and I had to solder wire to the contact points on the board to the legs on the holder. It works perfectly, but I don't like how it looks inside of a box I won't see for another few years (this is obsessive/compulsion). I think I paid $8 total for the "kit" which was just the battery and holder. From what I see, the original mv1c battery holder is unique to the board, and as such I would almost need to find someone with one laying around. I can't seem to find anyone with a supply of these, but did find instructions on how to modify a contemporary battery holder, adding the older style legs for a perfect fit and an ability to remove the battery without tedious soldering every 5 years.

    When it comes to the 1b/1f is it possible to remove the riser and attach it to my board, or is there integrated electronics in that section? Getting a riser is not a priority, more of a pipe dream. I do think I will stick with my 1c for a bit. My only other issue with it is the bios chip, and I won't have an issue removing it and replacing with a universe bios. I do have a v3.3 on the stock bios, and I wish I knew how they did that, but I could quickly get a neobiosmasta and potentially one with the virtual memory card and go from there. I don't like knowing that Razoola most likely didn't get compensation for this unit's bios, but I also don't fully know what benefit the 4.0 would be over the 3.3 in my specific situation.

    Is there a place on the net that sells parts for these older boards? would have no issue making something DIY, but I would like to see what I have to work with.

    Many thanks!

    -W

  4. #4

    Neo Alec's Avatar
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    If you don't want a vertical-loading slot then don't stick with the 1C. That's what people like about it, and there are plenty of other horizontal-loading boards.

  5. #5
    Krauser's Shoe Shiner
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    The 1B is cheap, works with neo bios masta (including the VMC version), and side loads the cart with a low profile. From what you are saying what you are looking for in a board. The 1B seems to be a better fit for your situation.

  6. #6
    . Whippy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neo Alec View Post
    If you don't want a vertical-loading slot then don't stick with the 1C.
    Quote Originally Posted by NexusX View Post
    The 1B seems to be a better fit for your situation.
    I agree that the 1B seems to be more my speed. I figure that next year I may move toward that purchase. I guess my next question would be if it is functionally identical to the 1c in regards to the "supergun" that is included in my c-box? Could I reuse the 2 custom daughterboards with it and have the same outputs?

  7. #7
    Krauser's Shoe Shiner
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whippy View Post
    I guess my next question would be if it is functionally identical to the 1c in regards to the "supergun" that is included in my c-box? Could I reuse the 2 custom daughterboards with it and have the same outputs?
    I haven't personally messed with those Cbox Units yet. But from what I've seen I think it's just a jamma connection for output, and most likely just a stereo mod to the board. 1B has the same Jamma edge and you can still Stereo Mod it as well. I think it may* fit in that enclosure without the top plate on. And I am unsure if the Cbox has a 5v sound mod already done to the board or if it converts it to 12v. My guess it already has a 5v mod to it. So you may have to do that mod as well.

    Other than that I have not messed with the CBox enough to tell you any more.

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