CPS2 B board vertical lines unless pcb removed from plastic case

awbacon

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I know the problem...B board not making a solid connection to a board. If I remove the B pcb from its plastic housing and plug the bare pcb into my A board...works perfectly!

Since it’s a Darksoft multi id rather not be running it as the bare board. Debating whether I need to cut the B board case back / file it down and remove some plastic, or what.

I have other B boards. None exhibit the issue. Any thoughts? Nothing is “broken” but I’m trying to determine the best method to get the darksoft working on it’s B board case
 

ggallegos1

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I have an A board that does the same, probably widening the socket holes would help
 

JoeAwesome

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Not being smart, but have you used the metal clips for CPS-2 boards?

Someone else posted years ago they had one A board that would be fine with all of their B boards except one. Could definitely be something with the B board housing.
 
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ggallegos1

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Not being smart, but have you used the metal clips for CPS-2 boards?

Someone else posted years ago they had one A board that would be fine with all of their B boards except one. Could definitely be something with the B board housing.
My Asia A board has sound issues even with the clips and it will work perfectly if bare PCB or if everything is seated absolutely perfectly. The JP A boards work perfectly, and don't need too much reseating but that Asian A board is a bitch at times. It works now, but it's much more frustrating.
 

RAZO

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I know the problem...B board not making a solid connection to a board. If I remove the B pcb from its plastic housing and plug the bare pcb into my A board...works perfectly!

Since it’s a Darksoft multi id rather not be running it as the bare board. Debating whether I need to cut the B board case back / file it down and remove some plastic, or what.

I have other B boards. None exhibit the issue. Any thoughts? Nothing is “broken” but I’m trying to determine the best method to get the darksoft working on it’s B board case

The Plastic screw holders on the B Board are worn. You need to cop a new case that that has screw holders that haven't been over torqued.

The connectors on the B Board aren't coming out enough which in turn don't make good contact with the A Board. You have to press down on the b board for it to make solid contact.
 
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awbacon

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The Plastic screw holders on the B Board are worn. You need to cop a new case that that has screw holders that haven't been over torqued.

That was what I was thinking too. The torx security bits have been worked over hard, as is the B board case. Just not biting the B board housing tight enough.

I’ll have to find an empty B board housing now. Ugh that’ll be fun lol
 

RAZO

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That was what I was thinking too. The torx security bits have been worked over hard, as is the B board case. Just not biting the B board housing tight enough.

I’ll have to find an empty B board housing now. Ugh that’ll be fun lol


Yup, If one or two holders are jacked, it could cause a problem. I've had that problem before and did the same thing you did by removing the pcb from the case and connecting directly to the A Board. Find a empty B board housing that is in good shape and I'm pretty sure you won't have any more issues. The Metal Clips also help as well.

It would be cool if someone could 3d Print a B Board case. Not sure how much something like that would cost though.
 
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awbacon

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Yup, If one or two holders are jacked, it could cause a problem. I've had that problem before and did the same thing you did by removing the pcb from the case and connecting directly to the A Board. Find a empty B board housing that is in good shape and I'm pretty sure you won't have any more issues. The Metal Clips also help as well.

It would be cool if someone could 3d Print a B Board case. Not sure how much something like that would cost though.

Right? Finding a spare base won’t be fun haha

I may take my A and B board down to bare pcb’s and make a custom case. Plexi enclosure or something
 

RAZO

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Right? Finding a spare base won’t be fun haha

I may take my A and B board down to bare pcb’s and make a custom case. Plexi enclosure or something

Smart Move. Talk to Lions first and see if he has something up his sleeve. I think Jasen's Customs has/had something you're looking for but his stuff is on the pricey end. A Plexi enclosure would be a good move though. Good Luck Bacon.
 

awbacon

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Smart Move. Talk to Lions first and see if he has something up his sleeve. I think Jasen's Customs has/had something you're looking for but his stuff is on the pricey end. A Plexi enclosure would be a good move though. Good Luck Bacon.

Yeah Jasens case is awesome but pricy AF. Plus I’d rather build someone one off. Plexus box with cutouts for JAMMA edge and kick connector + RCA jacks. Ditch the A board fan for something a bit more quiet
 

ggallegos1

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Yeah Jasens case is awesome but pricy AF. Plus I’d rather build someone one off. Plexus box with cutouts for JAMMA edge and kick connector + RCA jacks. Ditch the A board fan for something a bit more quiet
I remember seeing on KLOV someone was making an aluminum case for that reason, don't know if it was Jasen or not
 

awbacon

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fixed this. I had to reseat the pcb inside the B board housing, then I switched the screws out for new ones that weren’t semi stripped and worn AF. Pinching the top and bottom of the B board plastic while inserting the screws bit down hard enough for it to make a solid connection to the A board.
 

mikejmoffitt

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I have this problem on one of my CPS2 boards as well because the plastic pegs that keep the PCB from bending uwpards have snapped off inside the B board case.
 

ChuChu Flamingo

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My X-men had the same problem. I just used a nut and bolt.

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