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Thread: Neo jamma kits from Ebay seller honupata74 - Anyone built/tried?

  1. #1
    . Shinchan's Avatar
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    Neo jamma kits from Ebay seller honupata74 - Anyone built/tried?

    Super-simple passthrough harness. Tiny footprint, no bells or whistles, uses AES RGB cable and can take either molex or barrel power supply. Seems like a super-easy build/solder job. Hits all the right notes for what I need. Has anyone built one of these? What did you think?

    s-l1600 (4).jpg
    s-l1600 (5).jpg
    Last edited by Shinchan; 03-30-2019 at 06:25 PM.

  2. #2
    . Shinchan's Avatar
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    Ugh, mods if you would be so kind could you move this to the NG Tech Support section? Posted in the wrong section...

  3. #3
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    I have actually grabbed one of these as a fun build project. They do the job. Not perfect though. I modified mine a bit.

    Pros.
    Cheap
    Solid build
    The maker actually responds directly to your questions on eBay.
    Everything is THM install so no surface mount components. So you do not need to deal with that.
    Gives you all the components you need to get started.
    Offers a few different models and designs
    Can use molex Power for 5v & 12v power


    Cons.
    RGB (Scart) out only.
    Mono sound output only (without super gun mod &/or mod MVS PCB)
    Does not come with PSU, AV, or any other cables.
    If you run it off of the 5v barrel jack jack only like I do you need to mod the board for 5v only to get sound.
    You NEED a good shielded Scart cable to avoid the buzzing audio noise it can make. If you use an unshielded cable you will most likely get an audio buzz.

    When messing around with this myself I did a few changes when installing componets. I used microswitch push buttons for the test and credit switches instead of the flip switch offered. I also attached a buck & boost power board and wired it to take the +5v and boost it to supply the 12v for the sound voltage. That way there was no need modify any board it is used on. No problems so far. I do use a RGB Scart to HDMI converter. Still have a tiny ground loop problem because the converter uses a separate power supply. Don't notice it once gameplay is active though. I ended up making my own shielded Scart cable with the 8 pin DIN connector.

    That is about all the info I have on this at the moment.
    Last edited by NexusX; 03-30-2019 at 08:08 PM.

  4. #4
    . Shinchan's Avatar
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    Thank you for the fantastic and well-thought-out reply.

    RGB is fine, feeding a pvm with a Retro-Access BNC cable that I already have. Since the PVM speaker is crap (and mono), I'm actually going to just tap the sound chip and send it to a 3.5mm jack to send to powered PC speakers so the audio buzz should be non-existent. 5v should also be fine, which means a cleaner-looking power brick and a high W.A.F.

    Really the only thing that I don't already have is controllers, so this is exactly what I'm looking for.

    Quote Originally Posted by NexusX View Post
    I have actually grabbed one of these as a fun build project. They do the job. Not perfect though. I modified mine a bit.

    Pros.
    Cheap
    Solid build
    The maker actually responds directly to your questions on eBay.
    Everything is THM install so no surface mount components. So you do not need to deal with that.
    Gives you all the components you need to get started.
    Offers a few different models and designs
    Can use molex Power for 5v & 12v power


    Cons.
    RGB (Scart) out only.
    Mono sound output only (without super gun mod &/or mod MVS PCB)
    Does not come with PSU, AV, or any other cables.
    If you run it off of the 5v barrel jack jack only like I do you need to mod the board for 5v only to get sound.
    You NEED a good shielded Scart cable to avoid the buzzing audio noise it can make. If you use an unshielded cable you will most likely get an audio buzz.

    When messing around with this myself I did a few changes when installing componets. I used microswitch push buttons for the test and credit switches instead of the flip switch offered. I also attached a buck & boost power board and wired it to take the +5v and boost it to supply the 12v for the sound voltage. That way there was no need modify any board it is used on. No problems so far. I do use a RGB Scart to HDMI converter. Still have a tiny ground loop problem because the converter uses a separate power supply. Don't notice it once gameplay is active though. I ended up making my own shielded Scart cable with the 8 pin DIN connector.

    That is about all the info I have on this at the moment.

  5. #5
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    As far as controllers go you can just buy a replacement cable off of eBay or Amazon for about $5 or $10. Wire up an old Fight stick to it that you can get for cheap and you are good to go. Cheaper than buying SNK sticks and even if you got a NeoGeo X stick to rewire the internals are so bad you would end up putting all new switches and buttons anyways so it would still cost you.
    Last edited by NexusX; 03-31-2019 at 12:48 PM.

  6. #6
    Astra Superstar
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    Yeah I built my own fight sticks using a Aes extension cable and a empty fight stick case they work great.

  7. #7
    . Shinchan's Avatar
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    I've been stashing dead Hori's

    Quote Originally Posted by titchgamer View Post
    Yeah I built my own fight sticks using a Aes extension cable and a empty fight stick case they work great.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinchan View Post
    I've been stashing dead Hori's
    Perfect

  9. #9
    Kuroko's Training Dummy
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    I nabbed one of his other boards - its pretty much the same but it's a horizontal version of the PCB.

    RGB is good, but I replaced R8 with a 470 ohm (its the last stop before the CSYNC pin) as my setup can't handle the 5V.

    For audio, I never tested it through the DIN, but did a stereo mod and went to RCA jacks.

    Only thing that caught me off guard was that according to the hardware test, when one of the switches was in "JAMMA" mode, it was actually registering as TEST on the 161 multi card. So I just set it to TEST and it would boot normally. Putting it onto JAMMA will kick you into the test menu.

    No complaints and a really good seller - replies quickly and is more than willing to help.
    Last edited by superfry63; 04-19-2019 at 04:13 PM.

  10. #10
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    I went ahead and snagged one and built it already. I was going to actually create a thread with some build pics once I get everything working.

    I wasn't sure what the test/jamma section was actually supposed to do, and he didn't include a switch for it, so it's just empty right now.

    Surprisingly it powered on and seems to be booting right up (my first "real" soldering build) but the sync is not working for me. I'm using a Retro Access AES to BNC cable feeding to a Sony PVM. I have a 1A board with a 161-1 cart as well, and I went ahead and did the 5v mod but have not done the stereo mod yet. Not sure if swapping out that R8 would get the sync back into spec for the PVM or not. I'm kind of at a loss.

    Quote Originally Posted by superfry63 View Post
    I nabbed one of his other boards - its pretty much the same but it's a horizontal version of the PCB.

    RGB is good, but I replaced R8 with a 470 ohm (its the last stop before the CSYNC pin) as my setup can't handle the 5V.

    For audio, I never tested it through the DIN, but did a stereo mod and went to RCA jacks.

    Only thing that caught me off guard was that according to the hardware test, when one of the switches was in "JAMMA" mode, it was actually registering as TEST on the 161 multi card. So I just set it to TEST and it would boot normally. Putting it onto JAMMA will kick you into the test menu.

    No complaints and a really good seller - replies quickly and is more than willing to help.
    Last edited by Shinchan; 04-19-2019 at 04:27 PM.

  11. #11
    Kuroko's Training Dummy
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    What happened with mine was that I was provided x2 switches - one was 6 pin and for ON/OFF and one 3 pin.

    You could use the 3 pin for coin 1/ coin 2, but since you can set freeplay on the MVS dip switch, I used the 3 pin switch on the MVS/TEST/JAMMA.

    I'm using a retrogamingcables (UK) neo geo CD RGB passthrough cable (their product code on the site is CDZ-S)

    On honupata74's PCB, it uses pin 3 of the DIN for Sync, so I rigged it to pin 7 of the DIN as that's the pin the CDZ-S uses for sync.

    I don't have a PVM - any idea what voltage it needs on the sync line? You can test it out with a multimeter when it's all hooked up to the PVM and check the ground and sync pin of the DIN while it's all on, to see what you are getting.

  12. #12
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    Success!!! I guess you have to tell Retro Access that you want csync on a specific pin. I had to get into the cable and move the sync line to pin 3 in the DIN8. Working like a charm now!

    IMG_5398.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by superfry63 View Post
    What happened with mine was that I was provided x2 switches - one was 6 pin and for ON/OFF and one 3 pin.

    You could use the 3 pin for coin 1/ coin 2, but since you can set freeplay on the MVS dip switch, I used the 3 pin switch on the MVS/TEST/JAMMA.

    I'm using a retrogamingcables (UK) neo geo CD RGB passthrough cable (their product code on the site is CDZ-S)

    On honupata74's PCB, it uses pin 3 of the DIN for Sync, so I rigged it to pin 7 of the DIN as that's the pin the CDZ-S uses for sync.

    I don't have a PVM - any idea what voltage it needs on the sync line? You can test it out with a multimeter when it's all hooked up to the PVM and check the ground and sync pin of the DIN while it's all on, to see what you are getting.
    Last edited by Shinchan; 04-20-2019 at 10:31 AM.

  13. #13
    Kuroko's Training Dummy
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    Nicely done,

  14. #14

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    My retrogamingcables scart lead was the same way. Some AES systems don't have CSYNC so it's connected to the composite pin.

  15. #15
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    New SuperGun

    I changed my ebay name to NEO-JAMMA to reflect the logo.
    https://www.ebay.com/sch/neo-jamma/m.html

    I will have soon 2 new models:

    Vertical for MV-1B and MV-1C:
    1.jpg

    Horizontal for all MVS:
    Untitled.jpg


    Thank you for the support
    Cyril
    Last edited by cvenditti; 06-20-2019 at 01:57 PM.

  16. #16
    . Shinchan's Avatar
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    Break out everything but the jamma edge and controller ports to a separate board connected by a ribbon cable and you've got a consolizer's dream setup: Controller ports in the front, everything else in the back...

    Quote Originally Posted by cvenditti View Post
    I changed my ebay name to NEO-JAMMA to reflect the logo.
    https://www.ebay.com/sch/neo-jamma/m.html

    I will have soon 2 new models:

    Vertical for MV-1B and MV-1C:
    1.jpg

    Horizontal for all MVS:
    Untitled.jpg


    Thank you for the support
    Cyril

  17. #17
    Kula's Candy
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    Quote Originally Posted by cvenditti View Post
    I changed my ebay name to NEO-JAMMA to reflect the logo.
    https://www.ebay.com/sch/neo-jamma/m.html

    I will have soon 2 new models:

    Vertical for MV-1B and MV-1C:
    1.jpg

    Horizontal for all MVS:
    Untitled.jpg


    Thank you for the support
    Cyril
    Glad to finally see you on the forum man.

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