Shinchan
n00b
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2017
- Posts
- 42
I have actually grabbed one of these as a fun build project. They do the job. Not perfect though. I modified mine a bit.
Pros.
Cheap
Solid build
The maker actually responds directly to your questions on eBay.
Everything is THM install so no surface mount components. So you do not need to deal with that.
Gives you all the components you need to get started.
Offers a few different models and designs
Can use molex Power for 5v & 12v power
Cons.
RGB (Scart) out only.
Mono sound output only (without super gun mod &/or mod MVS PCB)
Does not come with PSU, AV, or any other cables.
If you run it off of the 5v barrel jack jack only like I do you need to mod the board for 5v only to get sound.
You NEED a good shielded Scart cable to avoid the buzzing audio noise it can make. If you use an unshielded cable you will most likely get an audio buzz.
When messing around with this myself I did a few changes when installing componets. I used microswitch push buttons for the test and credit switches instead of the flip switch offered. I also attached a buck & boost power board and wired it to take the +5v and boost it to supply the 12v for the sound voltage. That way there was no need modify any board it is used on. No problems so far. I do use a RGB Scart to HDMI converter. Still have a tiny ground loop problem because the converter uses a separate power supply. Don't notice it once gameplay is active though. I ended up making my own shielded Scart cable with the 8 pin DIN connector.
That is about all the info I have on this at the moment.
Yeah I built my own fight sticks using a Aes extension cable and a empty fight stick case they work great.
I've been stashing dead Hori's
I nabbed one of his other boards - its pretty much the same but it's a horizontal version of the PCB.
RGB is good, but I replaced R8 with a 470 ohm (its the last stop before the CSYNC pin) as my setup can't handle the 5V.
For audio, I never tested it through the DIN, but did a stereo mod and went to RCA jacks.
Only thing that caught me off guard was that according to the hardware test, when one of the switches was in "JAMMA" mode, it was actually registering as TEST on the 161 multi card. So I just set it to TEST and it would boot normally. Putting it onto JAMMA will kick you into the test menu.
No complaints and a really good seller - replies quickly and is more than willing to help.
What happened with mine was that I was provided x2 switches - one was 6 pin and for ON/OFF and one 3 pin.
You could use the 3 pin for coin 1/ coin 2, but since you can set freeplay on the MVS dip switch, I used the 3 pin switch on the MVS/TEST/JAMMA.
I'm using a retrogamingcables (UK) neo geo CD RGB passthrough cable (their product code on the site is CDZ-S)
On honupata74's PCB, it uses pin 3 of the DIN for Sync, so I rigged it to pin 7 of the DIN as that's the pin the CDZ-S uses for sync.
I don't have a PVM - any idea what voltage it needs on the sync line? You can test it out with a multimeter when it's all hooked up to the PVM and check the ground and sync pin of the DIN while it's all on, to see what you are getting.
I changed my ebay name to NEO-JAMMA to reflect the logo.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/neo-jamma/m.html
I will have soon 2 new models:
Vertical for MV-1B and MV-1C:
View attachment 54280
Horizontal for all MVS:
View attachment 54281
Thank you for the support
Cyril
I changed my ebay name to NEO-JAMMA to reflect the logo.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/neo-jamma/m.html
I will have soon 2 new models:
Vertical for MV-1B and MV-1C:
View attachment 54280
Horizontal for all MVS:
View attachment 54281
Thank you for the support
Cyril