Bad Luck with my MV-1FZ Mainboards

BIG BEAR

SHOCKbox Developer,
20 Year Member
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What was the bad connection IC for futrure reference?
That looks like a bad connection with your carts CHA or again I would have to state ZMC2 or B1 on the board.
BB
 

RyuX

Crossed Swords Squire
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What was the bad connection IC for futrure reference?
That looks like a bad connection with your carts CHA or again I would have to state ZMC2 or B1 on the board.
BB

I found bad traces on U6 and U7 and I replaced U3.

I resoldered B1 amd ZMC2 very cleanly so it must be one of the surrounding parts that maybe failed or in the process of swapping around parts I might have implanted a bad donor part.

Will dig in deeper tomorrow.. Thanks
 

RyuX

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Ok I am playing a little bit cat and mouse here.

So I was able to fix the vertical lines (I think it was related to the Cartridge Adapter and the corresponding pins)

However I ended up with another graphic problem in the process.

Man man.. I will be able to reproduce every single error that this board can produce I have the feeling.

So I got a doubling of certain sprites as you can see.

Any more hints ?

Will check for bad soldering again and remove some of the donor ICs when back home
 

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RyuX

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so P19 from the LSPC2-A2 that goes to PIN3 of the Fast VRAM (5814P) has continuity to both RAMs.
Also I resoldered all the Pins on LSPC2-A2 and replaced U1, U6, U7, U8, U10, U11, U3, U13, U15, U4, U5 and U16.
Still exactly the same issue.

Diagnostics BIOS will show all tests passed.. getting a little clueless now :(
 

RyuX

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.... Aaaaaaand we got a fix :)

Not sure what was the final golden touch - but I resoldered everything once again with high temperature and soaking in flux do make sure there are no micro solder bridges that can't be seen with the loupe and went over the whole board.. and it seems to work.

Thanks again guys - I am glad to be part of this great community :buttrock:
 

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Dropwire

Kuroko's Training Dummy
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.... Aaaaaaand we got a fix :)

Not sure what was the final golden touch - but I resoldered everything once again with high temperature and soaking in flux do make sure there are no micro solder bridges that can't be seen with the loupe and went over the whole board.. and it seems to work.

Thanks again guys - I am glad to be part of this great community :buttrock:

Great job! Another notch in your repair belt. Now if only some of your good luck would rub off on me.
 

RyuX

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Great job! Another notch in your repair belt. Now if only some of your good luck would rub off on me.

I didn't even start my "bad board" yet - so it's no comparison really. The board that I repaired now was showing stuff and that's much easier than watchdog clicking or freezing garbage.

Maybe my MV-1FZ concept acrylic case will cheer you up ? :D
 

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GadgetUK

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Is there somewhere that I can buy those cut acryllic pieces? They look cool!

EDIT: Great job btw =D
 

Dropwire

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I didn't even start my "bad board" yet - so it's no comparison really. The board that I repaired now was showing stuff and that's much easier than watchdog clicking or freezing garbage.

Maybe my MV-1FZ concept acrylic case will cheer you up ? :D

Phenomenal!:buttrock::buttrock:
 

RyuX

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Is there somewhere that I can buy those cut acryllic pieces? They look cool!

EDIT: Great job btw =D

Hey.. In theory I can cut those any time I want. the current design only works when kind of trimming the Cartridge Adapter on the sides a bit but I am looking to make them wider to fit without modifications.
I could also Engrave or cut some other texts in it if needed. Not sure about the shipping price of those but we can work something out if you are interested for sure :)
 

RyuX

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Phenomenal!:buttrock::buttrock:

So I started my bad board again.. but man... so I swapped all the ICs and RAMs out.. but it's still Watchdog clicking with garbage. I feel like my LSPC2-A2 is gone (it already has 3 broken off pins that I kind of fixed with a very thing wire and patience). Or it may also be the B1 on this board or the CPU or all or who knows :) I feel like the energy going into this bad board is not worth it and I should rather use it for parts and put my attention to something that at leasts posts
 

RyuX

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Basically If I have the material I can also do any kind of colors or variations. I wanted to have a slimmer case so I decided to cut off the sides from the cartridge adapter rather than making the case bigger just because of the overly big pcb.
 

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RyuX

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So my bad MV-1FZ will be used for parts now as the 80 Ohm short circuit still persists after removing all of the parts and I call this too time consuming for the benefit it will bring So I will use this board for parts and put my attention to another more deserving MV-1FZ.

I created another consolizing concept for the MV-1FZ. This is only the top plate - there will be a bottom plate as well. Its Laser Cut Acrylic painted in Black Satin spray paint.
 

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GadgetUK

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Wow, very cool! Would love to buy a that black one at some point!!! Maybe a clear too! Any idea on cost and shipping to the UK?
 

RyuX

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Wow, very cool! Would love to buy a that black one at some point!!! Maybe a clear too! Any idea on cost and shipping to the UK?

Just let me know.. shipping depending on if i send them "raw" without the need of a bigger parcel and padding then it will be around 6 € compared to around 13 € for a bigger parcel.
Like mentioned earlier I can also laser engrave a logo or a text or cut out something if you want something unique.

Clear acrylic will be the easiest for now - the black one is spray painted because I could not find black acrylic here (and I also prefer the matt / satin look).

So let me know if you make up your mind.
Have a good day
 

RyuX

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Thanks for that pdf! Saved me some time recently!!

I am glad that it helped someone :)
I wanted to start a collection of schematics and pinouts in another thread but got no response - so maybe people don't want to share their information - which is quite sad as we are a community.

Also I got a update on my take on the supergun.. it supports the standard 8 Pin DIN RGB Cables (Sega Genesis Type) has the Composite Sync Stabilization and Controller output - as well as a connection for a voltmeter and a fuse for the 5V line.
 

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Kujako

Quiz Detective
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Sep 8, 2018
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have you tried the Unibios? I have a bad 1FZ, with the same issues (clicking due to faulty watchdog timer). With the unibios, it posts an error on boot, but after that works fine (shrug).
 

RyuX

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Posts
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have you tried the Unibios? I have a bad 1FZ, with the same issues (clicking due to faulty watchdog timer). With the unibios, it posts an error on boot, but after that works fine (shrug).

I didn't try the unibios at that time - I fixed the issue later on so I can't really tell if it would have worked with the unibios.
 
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