RGB from MV-1C to OSSC/XRGB

Last time I built a CMVS the OSSC didn't exist and I don't have a frameister or anything of the sort. I might in the future so I want to make sure I have the right output levels for these. I want to wire up a DIN-8 for RGB out through an AES scart cable. I assume arcade boards output RGB levels well above what the OSSC/XRGB wants. Previously I had (I think) 75ohm resistors on all 3 color lines to go to a PVM but left the sync alone, it worked great, but I assume a PVM is more forgiving than these upscalers.

That sounds like a good place to start, but it will depend on the board. Some are brighter than others, and you may have to fine tune to get the levels exactly right. I ended up using 330 ohm resistors on my MV-1C after experimenting with pots on the lines. That ended up being almost exactly the same brightness as my NGCD. Also, don't forget to put 220uf caps on the lines after the resistors. They seem to help keep the signal level right on my MV-1C.

Any particular direction the 220uf caps should be in? I hear some debates on which direction you put them when your doing this.

Positive side facing the console. Should be installed after the resistor (positive side connected to resistor).

Thanks! I'm wiring up a little PCB to go inside my CMVS to hold all this stuff. When I originally build it I just wired everything directly and then when the motherboard died I pretty much had to rip the entire thing apart to do anything. This time I'm making a little daughterboard I can stick on the underside of the MV-1C with some trimmer pots and the caps. I wanted to be able to adjust the RGB output to the DIN-8 and the RGB levels going into a Neobitz so I have seperate control over the brightness of both. Currently the RGB is too strong for the PVM, and the component video from the Neobitz is also too bright on my flatscreen, but I can't imagine I would be lucky enough to find that the exact same values of resistors work for both.

Added bonus is I'm making all the back panel AV connectors connect to the daughterboard with plugs, so It's easy to take the whole thing apart, and the trimmer pots are accessible just by removing a side panel.

The first link is talking about the MV-1C specifically and the second is talking about sync coming out of a Crosspoint.

"You can replace R51 with a 620 Ohm resistor and that will bring down the sync to ~400mv."
https://twitter.com/citrus3000psi/status/1007442443720065026


And this article talks about adding a 470 Ohm resistor to the Sync line
https://www.snailtoothgaming.com/articles/testing-extron-crosspoint-c-sync-output/

Thanks Cueball1897, Is there something on MVH MV1FT to bring the sync down ?

I have a MVH MV1FT and I am using a generic supergun and do not want to damage OSSC. I saw a video on Youtube by a fellow CMVS user "MegaPixel". .... his OSSC fried once he used the AliExpress (MV1C) board with OSSC. He was not using the 620 ohm resister on R51

Yeah, put a 220uF capacitor and a 470 ohm resistor on the sync line, since it's TTL sync.

Thanks

Wanted to post a new reply for exposure. Does the "Rated" for voltage matter?

Are these good ?


1. RES 470 OHM 1/4W 5% AXIAL
2. CAP ALUM 220UF 20% 4V SMD
3. RES 470 OHM 0.6W 1% AXIAL

Those all should be fine.

Thank you

Hi "Neo Alec" just wanted to pop in here and Thank you for your information.

I ordered this cable

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/neo-geo/aes/snk-neo-geo-aes-rgb-scart-cable-stereo-sound

And it was working fine with OSSC + AES however I noticed that every few minutes the TV Screen would flicker... (Samsung Plasma). I assumed it was the compatibility issue with the TV, however after applying the Resistor --> Cap the MVS is working smoothly with no flicker.

Nice. Yeah, the cap can help.