Consolized MV1FS - Video Output Questions - which way to go?

I finally took the MVS plunge after being hooked on a neo geo cd, but wanted some more titles that never made it to the cd. I’ve done a bit of research before posting this huge mess, but I was looking to get some feedback on the best way to go with the setup I have/ what I’m trying to accomplish.

The MVS board is a MV1FS – there is a great tutorial on JNX for that specific board in regards to consolizing it. (Stereo, powering the board, using the neobitz encoder, which pins to pull what from, etc) But I have OSSC and was wondering what type of supergun/RGB scart output I should go with considering I am fine with using the built in controller ports, pulling the stereo from the head phone jack and this is the only Jamma board I have or plan on using this setup with. ( Also a built voltmeter would be good so I can monitor voltages)

-NeoBitz encoder on JNX website looks good as per the tutorial, but the best output it would have is s-video (which is still good, but I only have 1 tv with s-video and it’s on its way out)

-Retroelectronik stuff sounds like it isn’t the greatest, but some do have a voltmeter and a scart port.

-JROK 4.1 encoder also looks like a good solution, it has all the inputs and even RGB passthrough pins which I am wondering if I could rig up to a 8 port DIN socket for RGB/Scart out?

- Sync Cleaner, not really sure if it would need it, but I see that some people use them in certain setups.

-Also I just wanted to confirm – is it true you only need the 12V on this board if you want to amp the stereo signal? (just using the headphone pins with 5V 3A is fine, if it goes into a receiver?)

Thanks – any help would be appreciated… Ideally I would agree that a prebuild supergun or CMVS is probably the best way to go, but this seems like a fun project to get into – I’m just on the fence in regards to how to approach getting the “wants” done without buying tons of stuff I don’t need.

If you are not using the amplified audio you can power it with 5v only, There might be a weirdo MVS board out there where this is not the case, but in general 12V is only for amplified audio.

If you are planning to use it exclusively with your OSSC (which will probably be the best option anyways) then the easiest option is to wire up a DIN-8 port. DIN-8 is what the NeoGeo AES uses which means you can buy an AES scart cable and run that right into your OSSC. You can find the pinout for the AES DIN-8 easily enough and it's an easy connection. What you should be aware of is that arcade board RGB is not really the same as standard console RGB, so chances are you will be adding some resistors to your RGB lines, and I think sometimes a capicitor and resistor to your Sync line. I don't know specifically what you will want to do, but I would highly recommend finding out the best option for going into the OSSC before you just plug things in. I have heard about some signals potentially damaging the OSSC.

Thanks Finch, that sounds like the way to go.

Yea, the Sync line and RGB lines will need a cap/resistor combo but i'll read up on that. (for sure the sync is TTL and need to get that voltage down)

Any idea if the RGB lines would need an amp like a THS7314? I've read some mixed info that the RGB signals need an amp or pots for adjustment.

The only thing I might do is add a voltmeter to the jamma connector to make sure my 5V isn't all over the map and can monitor it from the couch.

superfry63 said:

Any idea if the RGB lines would need an amp like a THS7314? I've read some mixed info that the RGB signals need an amp or pots for adjustment.

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I'm pretty sure they don't need an amp. RGB signals from arcade PCBs are very high. When I plug MVS boards directly into my Sony PVM things get all kinds of funky, screen distortions and such when the image gets bright, and a few resistors fix it. I don't do anything to my sync line, but I'm also not really using this as any kind of perment setup so I'm sure it's not ideal. Conversely plugging my Genesis into the PVM using RGB works flawlessly.

Gotcha - I actually just found these 2 threads which provide 2 options.

1 without the amp:
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?269721-MV-1C-Too-Bright-on-the-Framemeister

1 with an amp:
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?270094-Consolized-MVS-RGB-from-JAMMA-(PCE-Amp-mod)

Sounds like each MVS board (even the same models) vary slighty in terms of what resistors to use so might be good to toss in some 1K pots to dial it in.

I'm undertaking the same thing but for a cab with a LCD, i'm looking at one of these to get scart from jamma into an OSSC http://retroelectronik.com/en/accue...mma-to-scart-rgb-adapter-retroelectronik.html

I've also emailed Mike about the neovga and there are none right now but might be in future, it might be worth dropping him an email to show interest (check out the neovga thread). The neovga would be the ultimate.

I tried a GBS8200 to see what it would look like - its a big no no picture is terrible lol

Got RGB only and keep the encoders all external.

Finally got all the parts to do this, A big thanks to Xian Xi/JammaNationX for making the tutorial for the MVS1FS - it really helped out.

It's all together and seems to be running around 4.90 volts - I only have the 161 in 1 for a game and I am waiting on a unibios that shipped out.

I ended up going with the JROK, since it had the pots for adjustment - and just had some questions for anyone else who might have it:

Composite: Works, but really jumpy wavy graphics. colors are fine but just no way I would use this.

S-Video: Great quality, but there seems to be vertical lines that scroll really fast to the left. It stands out the most of on "poorly drawn Terry" on the 161 in 1 menu. (on his red hat, jacket and belt buckle)

Component: Pretty much on par (if not slightly better than s-video) but without the weird scrolling lines.Looks great on it's own, but you when put through the OSSC you can customize it a bit more.

RGB - Haven't tested yet - don't have the parts to do this handy, but It would be the best output unless it had some kind of weirdness like composite or s-video.

Any idea what might be causing this? This link suggested a few things: http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?259048-Issue-with-Jrok-encoder-on-MVS-MV1FZ

- 1K pot on the sync line: Might work, but I am just baffled why Component is fine

- Ground loop: I only have 1 PSU that meets 5V 3.5A but I have tried both the TV and MVS on the same plug and different. I ended up hacking this up as I had the same brand for a Duo-R which didn't add artifacts : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00B4K3KQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Not sure if this matters but here is how I attached the JRok and the Power connections to the board:

PSU: 5V/Ground - went to the jamma connector (just temp to get test out the setup, JNX tutorial stated to use a different location on the board, not sure if it would cause this)

Audio : Head Phones out - as per JNX tutorial

Jrok: RGB, Sync, Ground : as per JNX tutorial

Jrock 5V/Ground - shared the Ground with the video ground, put the 5V for the Jrock near the 5V point near the video ground. (any issues with sharing the ground?)


That's about it. Hoping someone can comment if that setup would be causing the issue, or could just comment on how their composite/s-video looks.

EDIT: just wanted to state that I have tried the composite and the S-video on a 30-40 inch Phillips TV and also a Commodore 1702 CRT monitor and it's the same.

Sounds like you might need a sync cleaner.

Xian Xi said:

Sounds like you might need a sync cleaner.

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Worth a shot, I just ordered a 1K pot in, figured I will put that on the sync line before the JROK Encoder and just see if it makes any difference. If not I'll snag the JROK sync cleaner and see how that goes. Only other thing I can think of is a different PSU.

Anyone else have a JROK encoder? do you get slightly angled vertical lines traveling horizontally through any colored areas when using S-video and is your composite just nasty?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016W8Y70M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pot came in today, doesn't look super high quality - but it's linear and I figured its a good place to start. I wired it up like this before the JROK encoder.:




No luck, turning it from left to right does nothing, except for the last 10% all the way to the right which just fully scrambles the image lol

Even tried recapping the board - no change in quality.

I guess the sync cleaner is the next step? I've no proof this will help. (I don't have anyway of testing RGB right now)

Only other thing is that I noticed that the small voltmeter on the jamma, was a bit off compared to my good multimeter. after tuning it to the multimeter the voltage seems to flux between 4.80 and 4.81 when using the 161 in 1 cart (currently my only cart)

Could the low voltage be doing this? Can anyone recommend a good wall plug 5v 3a power supply that doesn't cause interference? Maybe its the PWR+ psu I am using that i cut the Microusb end off of.

Finally got some time to come back to this one, regardless of Composite and S-Video, I'm trying to wire up the RGB to a DIN socket.

everything is hooked up to the JROK's RGB out pins (which look like they are hooked up to the right caps and the pots)

I put a 470 ohm resistor on the cync line and went to measure the voltage after it, and it still reads about 4.2 Volts.

Is that okay? I was under the impression that the 470 ohm resistor would lower it down to like .3 Volts?

Just don't want to plug it into the OSSC quite yet lol

superfry63 said:

Finally got some time to come back to this one, regardless of Composite and S-Video, I'm trying to wire up the RGB to a DIN socket.

everything is hooked up to the JROK's RGB out pins (which look like they are hooked up to the right caps and the pots)

I put a 470 ohm resistor on the cync line and went to measure the voltage after it, and it still reads about 4.2 Volts.

Is that okay? I was under the impression that the 470 ohm resistor would lower it down to like .3 Volts?

Just don't want to plug it into the OSSC quite yet lol

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I figured out why - the OSSC and other 75 ohm terminated devices need to be connected when testing. I checked the voltage and it's no longer up at the TTL level.

To anyone else taking this route, I'd skip all this mess and go just RGB, either right off the board, with JROK or Neobitz. There is no way I could go back to Component and S-video only seems to look good on CRT's (in my case every HD TV was just brutal scrolling lines)

I see this is an old thread, but I was going to concur with Xian Xi's advice: Don't bother installing anything beyond RGB. You're just spending money on obsolete connections that could degrade the RGB signal.