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Thread: AES on BVM question

  1. #1
    Timid Neo Newbie

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    AES on BVM question

    Anyone with an AES and a BVM20F1U ever seen any video issues where the first inch or so of the screen has a slant? This seems like a non-standard sync issue. I can make it look a little better by adjusting AFC on the deflector card but it doesn't fix it entirely and wont achieve sync if i reboot console with AFC=1.

    image1.jpeg

    image2.jpeg


    -sphiend

  2. #2
    Armored Scrum Object

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    For consoles that do something near-identical to that on some of my BVM's (I don't own an AES to test), I use an Extron RGB with the SERR dipswitch turned on. You can pick one up for like $10-20 shipped on eBay.

    I think the RetroRGB guys had similar problems with that on the BVM A-Series and they had some luck with an Extron 580xi I believe (which has a "comp"? dipswitch which the other Extron RGB's lack). I bought one of the 580's but haven't had a need to test it yet - it's mostly the BVM-D9 and D14's which give me trouble and I sold all of those.
    Last edited by Dochartaigh; 08-22-2018 at 07:20 PM.

  3. #3
    B. Jenet's Firstmate
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    My CMVS does this on my PVM if the levels are too high. If you plug straight RGB from the arcade board into the TV the screen will warp when it gets bright. A few resistors helped. This shouldn't be a problem with an AES, but it's something you could try in your cable and see what happens.

  4. #4
    Timid Neo Newbie

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    Thanks guys. I may install the console5 kit that includes revised value caps and resistors for the RGB lines. If it turns out this is the same issue that Bob/RetroRGB ran into (system doesn’t have horizontal slices in vertical sync block) then I think maybe the Extron could work. That said, I don’t recall Bob’s experiment with the extron working. Will have to go find the video again.

  5. #5
    Master Brewer, Genzai Sake Co.
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    Same thing happens on both my 20L5s, even with caps and resistors replaced.
    Neo Geo AES #011035 #036442 | Neo Geo CD #0002814 #0015959 | MVS Executive | Razion 1cc Club President | NG.com Top Trader
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  6. #6
    Timid Neo Newbie

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    Quote Originally Posted by wyo View Post
    Same thing happens on both my 20L5s, even with caps and resistors replaced.
    Good to know. Thanks for that info.

    Found Bobs video that covers the 580xi and how it fixed the sync issue with the SMS (via genesis / Everdrive?) he was having. Seems it may require a gscart switch to convert sync to HV first then output to the 580 and use one of the dip switch options. He mentions maybe this converts TTL to 75ohm sync but he wasn’t sure. Not sure how dedicated I am to try to figure this out, lol.

    Here is a link to video.

    https://youtu.be/CneMJC-zTf8

  7. #7
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    I had just assumed my PVM had an issue that caused this with my CMVS. Glad to learn it's not an issue with the display.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by noir View Post
    I had just assumed my PVM had an issue that caused this with my CMVS. Glad to learn it's not an issue with the display.
    Well, it is and it isn't. Certain monitors are more sensitive to this particular issue. Most display AES and CMVS video just fine.
    Neo Geo AES #011035 #036442 | Neo Geo CD #0002814 #0015959 | MVS Executive | Razion 1cc Club President | NG.com Top Trader
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  9. #9
    Chang's Combo Meal #6
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    I've had issues like this on my 14 inch Sony PVM (14L2) with RGB via scart. Resistors inline built into the SCART cable coming out of my supergun (only ever happened on arcade hardware...never consoles, but that's to be expected considering the voltage differences) fixed the issue 100% for me

  10. #10
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    Is it an early model system? I've had this issue with an early system on a consumer TV. Replacing some of the (incorrect) caps/resistors in the video circuit helped, but didn't fix the issue. I ended up trading that one and getting a newer revision system.

  11. #11
    Timid Neo Newbie

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    Quote Originally Posted by GohanX View Post
    Is it an early model system? I've had this issue with an early system on a consumer TV. Replacing some of the (incorrect) caps/resistors in the video circuit helped, but didn't fix the issue. I ended up trading that one and getting a newer revision system.
    Yeah. I my case, I intentionally bought one near 20k serial so that it would be in the range considered to have the best RGB output. Nobody mentioned issues with BVM/PVM sync.

    I just recapped it today (partial) to replace the caps and resistors with the new ďrevisedĒ values that are now standard for the NEO-AES board cap kit from console5. Sadly, my experience is the same as a poster above in that it didnít make any difference with the slant at the top of the screen for me.

    This board has what looks like lots of factory performed mods. Strange cables and components randomly soldered together and a daughter card with ICs. Iím not surprised that something is off with the sync.

    Next step for me is to try some sync cleaning using a combo of gscartsw and an Extron. Have both now but need some cables to make it work. Failing that, will just have to decide how important it is to be able to play on my CRT. It isnít what Iíd call a great play experience for most games. It does this both with RGB and Composite on this monitor.

    -sphiend

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by sphiend View Post
    Yeah. I my case, I intentionally bought one near 20k serial so that it would be in the range considered to have the best RGB output. Nobody mentioned issues with BVM/PVM sync.

    I just recapped it today (partial) to replace the caps and resistors with the new “revised” values that are now standard for the NEO-AES board cap kit from console5. Sadly, my experience is the same as a poster above in that it didn’t make any difference with the slant at the top of the screen for me.

    This board has what looks like lots of factory performed mods. Strange cables and components randomly soldered together and a daughter card with ICs. I’m not surprised that something is off with the sync.

    Next step for me is to try some sync cleaning using a combo of gscartsw and an Extron. Have both now but need some cables to make it work. Failing that, will just have to decide how important it is to be able to play on my CRT. It isn’t what I’d call a great play experience for most games. It does this both with RGB and Composite on this monitor.

    -sphiend
    Yes, try those and report back. Standard LM1881N inline sync stripper did not help but maybe the gSCARTsw and/or Extron will.
    Neo Geo AES #011035 #036442 | Neo Geo CD #0002814 #0015959 | MVS Executive | Razion 1cc Club President | NG.com Top Trader
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  13. #13
    Cheng's Errand Boy

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    Turn on VCR Mode on the TV.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by nio View Post
    Turn on VCR Mode on the TV.
    Though this is a 20F1U, it does not have VCR mode. It has something in there about timing (fast or slow). I believe this is the same as AFC timing. Slow helps a little bit but doesn’t fix it entirely. The monitor also will not resync if you reset the console unless you change it back to fast.

    Ultimately, the gscartsw + Extron combo isn’t going to work out. The used gscartsw I bought seems to have some color issues (even using VGA port). White becomes a light blue. The Extron dips did help but seemed to introduce some strange graphic issues that are hard to describe. All I can say is it looks much better directly connected.

    Think I’m just stuck playing this on the LCD via framemeister..
    Last edited by sphiend; 09-08-2018 at 04:40 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sphiend View Post
    Though this is a 20F1U, it does not have VCR mode. It has something in there about timing (fast or slow). I believe this is the same as AFC timing. Slow helps a little bit but doesn’t fix it entirely. The monitor also will not resync if you reset the console unless you change it back to fast.

    Ultimately, the gscartsw + Extron combo isn’t going to work out. The used gscartsw I bought seems to have some color issues (even using VGA port). White becomes a light blue. The Extron dips did help but seemed to introduce some strange graphic issues that are hard to describe. All I can say is it looks much better directly connected.

    Think I’m just stuck playing this on the LCD via framemeister..
    Damn, sorry to hear that. Maybe someone else will see this thread and find a solution.
    Neo Geo AES #011035 #036442 | Neo Geo CD #0002814 #0015959 | MVS Executive | Razion 1cc Club President | NG.com Top Trader
    ATTN NOOBS: Jamma Nation X makes the best CMVS & Superguns, PERIOD! | Unofficial MVS and AES Price Guide
    Quote Originally Posted by SNKSOUL View Post
    I ask a complete account removal extraction

    I ask the deletion authorized by Neo Geo Admin Judge Dredd.

    Thanks a lot.

  16. #16
    Timid Neo Newbie

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    So.. been a while since I started this thread. Posting now as the issue is finally resolved and I want to put the solution here for any other troubleshooting travelers that may stumble on this thread.

    Long story short, wasn’t the AES. I recapped it and changed the output resistors, etc...

    Issue was failing caps in the monitor. Specifically on either the deflection or RGB boards. These had already been recapped by Pat but apparently he only replaces caps known to fail. As mine is a high hour monitor. I guess I had some other failing caps. It took over 100 caps to do those two boards. (I had it professionally serviced)

    It looks great now.. no curl.

    I did try the extron but it didn't really help and introduced other visual issues. So, if you have a similar issue, I’d start with replacing all caps on the deflection board.

    -sphiend

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