Neo Geo AES power concern

So I recently joined the Neo Geo AES club and am all sorts of excited. However, when I power on my system it emits a high pitched sequel that worries me. It doesn't seem like the revision 3-4 issue from what I can tell. I have a Pro Pow 3 japanese system and am using a 10V 1A 3rd party psu. I have ordered an OEM
Adapter. Have any of you experienced anything like this before?

To add to this, it is a 3-6 board. It has a 3.2 Unibios installed, and a trace soldered from the EU switch to the Sony chip at the top. I have attached a board pic to this post. It seems like the sound from the 100uf capacitor.

Where is the squeal coming from? I'd bet it's from the 3rd party PSU. Had this happen to me plenty of times with cheap wall warts, get yourself a quality one first.

^ What this guy said. I've used cheap offbrand macbook chargers that made all sorts of horrid noises. Cheap PSU's aren't worth the risk, they whine, heat up and I don't trust them with electronics I can't easily replace. Either get an original PSU, or buy a nice one from mouser or digikey. Meanwell makes good PSU's in a million different varieties, that's what I bought for my CMVS and it's cool, silent and has a nice power LED so you know if it's plugged in. You can also often find good quality PSU's lying around the house because a lot of inkjet printers and scanners use PSU's of the correct amperage and voltage. Just watch out that if it's a barrel plug (seriously, fuck barrel plugs) that not only is the outside diameter correct, the inside pin diameter is the same too. I spent hours taking apart and reflowing solder on a phono pre-amp trying to get it to stop cutting out only to realize I used the wrong generic wall-wart and it was only occasionally making contact, even though the plug felt totally solid.

I stick to Jameco Reliapro for replacement power supplies for my old consoles. I'm sure that Mouser and Digikey sell equally good-quality units. The few dollars that you save on cheap-ass PSUs are not worth it. Why take chances with the electricity that you're sending into 30-year-old electronics?

Sypth said:

Where is the squeal coming from? I'd bet it's from the 3rd party PSU. Had this happen to me plenty of times with cheap wall warts, get yourself a quality one first.

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Thank you for the reply. Since my post it has killed two 10v 1a plugs (not SNK offical) Still waiting on that. The sound appears to be coming from the inductor under the reset button. I looked to see if it was loose and it was not. I inspected the caps, no blown ones to be found. I might have to wait and see if the official PSU solves the issue. I also have the jail bars with RGB. I hear that is normal on 3-6 mobos.

Jibbajaba said:

I stick to Jameco Reliapro for replacement power supplies for my old consoles. I'm sure that Mouser and Digikey sell equally good-quality units. The few dollars that you save on cheap-ass PSUs are not worth it. Why take chances with the electricity that you're sending into 30-year-old electronics?

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I ordered an official adapter. But it is going EMS, so you.....slow. But I will keep your suggestion for future reference.

I have an old Netgear 10v 1.2a adapter that might fit it. I could try that. Thank you for the information.

Ok so even with the official Pro Pow3 adapter I get the buzzing. Not so much the squeal. That quited down a bit. I also have to cut the rgb traces on the back while the mobo is out for testing. The 3-6 revision is not so great in my opinion. By the way the buzzing is happening in the brick and from the audio port. Even with the RGB and aux jack connections to the Framemeister. Anyone else ever have this issue?

The inductor really isn't going to go bad. If it's making noise, it's probably being driven too hard/wrong. I'd try swapping the LM2576-5.0 and the 2200µF and 470µF caps on the power line (or re-cap).

Some buzzing in the audio is normal, but not from the power brick itself.