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Thread: Sega Blast City - PSU voltage drop and non-functioning games

  1. #1
    Astra Superstar
    Yamazaki's Avatar
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    Sega Blast City - PSU voltage drop and non-functioning games

    I got my Blast City since last July and it actually plays most of my games perfectly.


    buuuuut

    I got issues at the moment with a korean Gunforce II pcb and the PSU.


    screen attached shows what I get when I hook up the game to my cab.

    --> the game works perfect on my MAK on TV though!




    what I also noticed is that I got a drop of about 0,8v from Jamma connector to the game pcbs...


    i.e. Light Bringer has 5,5 on the Jamma loom but 4,7 on the pcb side...





    any ideas what might be the issue here?

    I was told horizontal frequency but changing the wide/narrow pot on the backside did not help....




    Gunforce II on my cab...
    33664723_10216568603507103_6311782662872760320_n.jpg

  2. #2
    The Chinese Kid Kid Panda's Avatar
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    Well first off, that's not a legit gunforce II, also your psu prolly needs a recap.
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  3. #3
    Astra Superstar
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    it's a korean pcb as far as I know.


    or you mean it's a boot?

  4. #4
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    ChuChu Flamingo's Avatar
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    You should really have 5.0V at the jamma edge connector. 4.7V at the jamma edge connector of the arcade board means most chips won't be working right, especially those furthest away on the board.

    also correct me if im wrong, but I think the wide/narrow adjustment has nothing to do with frequency. I believe it just sets the maximum and minimum size you can do.
    Last edited by ChuChu Flamingo; 06-19-2018 at 06:14 PM.


    he spends hundreds on scarves, of course he's a fag and then ChuChu Flamingo preserved the aftermath in a plastic case making sure it wasn't exposed to unstable air
    You're just upset that you're too goddam stupid to understand the games and whiff infinites.
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  5. #5
    Dodgeball Yakuza
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    Not sure if your PCB needs -5v, but the Blast does provide -5v. You will need a Negatron between the JAMMA connector and PCB edge connector.

  6. #6
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    That's a legit Korean version- Some of those older boards are wonky on tri-sync monitors. I'd go with trying to recap the psu, it will help in the long run.


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