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Thread: Process of freigting and restoring 6 slot neogeo destination Hawaii IT'S ALIVE

  1. #76
    Blame madman
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8bitForLife View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by amiga1200 View Post
    FIXED!
    source for relevant:
    Code:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cu4PG-lSZN0
    Holy shit, leet hax, bro! Thanks for revealing your source code!
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  2. #77
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    Meh sorry i just click share on youtube and direct to my email which i get link that way on my phone.
    But anyways i fixed the bleeding by turning down contrast. Fixed the other speaker as one plug came disconnected. Installed brand new psu. Took marquee locks out.
    Quote Originally Posted by lachlan View Post
    So you're racist, a fuckhead AND a faggot. Wow that's gotta be a new standard for this place... oh who am I kidding.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by madman View Post
    Holy shit, leet hax, bro! Thanks for revealing your source code!


    Quote Originally Posted by swlovinist View Post
    And this is why I don't post here more often. Some truly terrible posts here.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by FilthyRear View Post
    This is what I imagine Amiga to look like...
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8bitForLife View Post
    But anyways i fixed the bleeding by turning down contrast. Fixed the other speaker as one plug came disconnected. Installed brand new psu. Took marquee locks out.
    Nice job on chassis swap dude.

  6. #81
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    Awesome job, enjoy your new cabinet!

  7. #82
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    Glad to hear you got your cab up and running!

  8. #83
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    FYI, if you're looking to get durable accurate side and front art without having to paint and use separate (and often inaccurate) lettering decals, check these out. I just finished restoring my 4-slot Rev 3 cab (which has the same dimensions as far as these are concerned as the 6-slot MVS) using these and it looks great. Its expensive, but it's worth it. Should you take the plunge, make extra sure that the surfaces are clean, smooth, and even without any divots for best application and look.

    https://szabosarcades.com/collection...o-geo-side-art

    He also has a replacement decal for the headphone/memory card slot, since yours looks nice and sepia toned.

    https://szabosarcades.com/products/n...ad-phone-decal

    Currently he doesn't have replacement CPOs for the 6-slot, which are wider, or the 6-slot marquee, should you need them. The CPOs are coming soon however, and I'll be nabbing one myself for an upcoming restore of my beat up 6-slot cab. Judging by the pictures you posted, they look like they're in solid shape.

    You're lucky that the old vinyl decal on the front around the coin box is already peeling off. Mine was a total fucking bitch to remove.

    If you want any other advice in terms of restoring the cabinet itself and how to avoid first timer mistakes, let me know.
    Last edited by Fygee; 04-19-2018 at 07:27 PM.

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fygee View Post
    FYI, if you're looking to get durable accurate side and front art without having to paint and use separate (and often inaccurate) lettering decals, check these out. I just finished restoring my 4-slot Rev 3 cab (which has the same dimensions as far as these are concerned as the 6-slot MVS) using these and it looks great. Its expensive, but it's worth it. Should you take the plunge, make extra sure that the surfaces are clean, smooth, and even without any divots for best application and look.

    https://szabosarcades.com/collection...o-geo-side-art

    He also has a replacement decal for the headphone/memory card slot, since yours looks nice and sepia toned.

    https://szabosarcades.com/products/n...ad-phone-decal

    Currently he doesn't have replacement CPOs for the 6-slot, which are wider, or the 6-slot marquee, should you need them. The CPOs are coming soon however, and I'll be nabbing one myself for an upcoming restore of my beat up 6-slot cab. Judging by the pictures you posted, they look like they're in solid shape.

    You're lucky that the old vinyl decal on the front around the coin box is already peeling off. Mine was a total fucking bitch to remove.

    If you want any other advice in terms of restoring the cabinet itself and how to avoid first timer mistakes, let me know.
    I seen that and i probably well go with that and i did fine a 6 slot cpo and i might of found someone to do the marquee. I bought an digital ruler and im going to measure marquee and cp plexi to get those made. I well have to ether strip the pain off on sides or goofoff as its really flacky. Minor sanding and probably 1 coat of primer. There are areas i might need to bondo and sand. But its really not that much work its just time.

    I bought hopefully new coin ejects that well work a couple new bulbs for tge coin mech and paid off lee for my led marquee lighting for 6 slot.
    Tge t molding is making me a little antsy as iv never messed with stuff like that.

    Is it hard to install the tmolding?
    Quote Originally Posted by lachlan View Post
    So you're racist, a fuckhead AND a faggot. Wow that's gotta be a new standard for this place... oh who am I kidding.

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8bitForLife View Post
    I seen that and i probably well go with that and i did fine a 6 slot cpo and i might of found someone to do the marquee. I bought an digital ruler and im going to measure marquee and cp plexi to get those made. I well have to ether strip the pain off on sides or goofoff as its really flacky. Minor sanding and probably 1 coat of primer. There are areas i might need to bondo and sand. But its really not that much work its just time.

    I bought hopefully new coin ejects that well work a couple new bulbs for tge coin mech and paid off lee for my led marquee lighting for 6 slot.
    Tge t molding is making me a little antsy as iv never messed with stuff like that.

    Is it hard to install the tmolding?
    T-Molding was actually the easiest part of it all. You'll need a rubber mallet and/or a rubber j-roller (which is also highly recommended for applying the decals). T-molding needs to be 3/4" with a slot width of 1/16". You'll need a really sharp pair of scissors so you can create an even and straight cut at the ends. Note where the t-molding starts when you remove it and use that as the same starting/end point when you apply the new stuff. Save the t-molding for last. You'll save yourself a lot of grief.

    If you want to match the original, it'll be standard black for the top portion, and black leather texture for the bottom. Personally, to add some pizzaz to it, I went with white t-molding for the top and the front. Makes it pop a lot more and looks great with the red and white lettering. Ultimately it's up to your preference. I got my t-molding from https://www.t-molding.com. They have LED options there if you have the money and want to go with something really creative and cool.

    In terms of the order of things when restoring, I recommend the following:

    1. Remove the control panel, coin box, and board. Take lots of pictures and label the cables so you know what goes to what. Keep the screws and nuts organized with what goes with what.

    2. Strip all the decals/paint. The decals should peel off fairly easily. Use a heat gun and/or Citristrip if its stubborn. Be cautious not to damage the wood underneath.

    3. Repair holes with bondo wood filler (better than their all-purpose gray stuff) as needed.

    4. Sand surfaces until smooth. Provided there's no wood damage, you may not need to sand the surfaces under the decals. Use a metal sander with a power drill for the control panel.

    5. Paint where needed. You'll need to paint the bottom and the cpo black. I used rust-oleum black spray paint. Semi-gloss or satin black look best.

    6. Apply the decals. Go slowly and make sure to roll out any air bubbles as you go along. If you get the pre-cut decals, then apply the excess over the lip where the t-molding goes and use the t-molding to cover it. You can razor edge cut it instead if you prefer, but its difficult and you're likely to undercut it.

    7. Apply the t-molding.

    8. Put everything back together.

  11. #86
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    Ok after 4am mishap everything is working
    0507181546_HDR.jpg
    Marquee restored. With all of them on for testing. coin lights replaced now and now for the sides and front.

    I did adjust monitor picture was too wide.

    Im going to get black and red primer. What sand paper should i use and is there a specific wood bondo i should use?

    Also gotta get a new bezel somehow.
    Last edited by 8bitForLife; 05-07-2018 at 09:18 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by lachlan View Post
    So you're racist, a fuckhead AND a faggot. Wow that's gotta be a new standard for this place... oh who am I kidding.

  12. #87
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    Very nice!



    !!

  13. #88
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    Congrats dude! That's so cool you went through all the trouble of getting that to you! I'm on Oahu and have a few cabs here so If you do make trip here, hit me up, I'd be happy to meet up.

  14. #89
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    Congrats on the 6 slot. Would love to see the completed after pictures.

    I have been on the lookout for a nice 4 or 6 slot near Florida for a few years now and still no luck. The search continues.

  15. #90
    JammaNationX
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtraSmiley View Post
    Congrats dude! That's so cool you went through all the trouble of getting that to you! I'm on Oahu and have a few cabs here so If you do make trip here, hit me up, I'd be happy to meet up.
    Who is this?

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xian Xi View Post
    Who is this?
    Well, you beat the shit out of me on Mario Kart, the only game you were even close to that good on was that super homo-erotic one you have complete in box...

  17. #92
    JammaNationX
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    Quote Originally Posted by XtraSmiley View Post
    Well, you beat the shit out of me on Mario Kart, the only game you were even close to that good on was that super homo-erotic one you have complete in box...
    LOL, I can't remember who gave that to me. I think it was someone from this forum.

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