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Thread: Consolized MVS 1C system RGB output problem

  1. #1
    Timid Neo Newbie

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    Consolized MVS 1C system RGB output problem

    Hello all, been a longtime lurker and appreciate all the great info here. I have a consolized MV1C system that I bought as is from someone a year ago and it was modded for S-Video. The S-Video works fine but when I tried to use the standard AV out port with the proper RGB output cable I cant seem to get it to sync properly with my Sony BVM/PVM monitors. The strange thing is that I can get a proper output through a Frameister by setting the sync level from 0 to 30 (not even sure what that does.) Does anyone know the issue here and how to go about getting a fix for a good RGB output signal?

    thanks!

  2. #2
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    ChuChu Flamingo's Avatar
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    Do your monitors expect TTL level sync or 75 Ohm?

    From what i've seen framemeisters usually aren't as picky but you gotta be careful with what sync you send to it. The good thing is that it works on your framemeister so it definitely points to a sync problem imo. Just a word of caution Ste from hdretrovision has pointed out that although you can get away with not using 75 ohm sync for most shit, it is certainly pushing the framemeister past the manufacturers recommended tolerances if you don't attenuate them to 75 ohms according to the datasheet.

    In any case is your sync line on the mvs board attenuated for 75 ohm via resistors? What RGB cable are you using specifically for the MVS system & output? Does that cable have any resistors?

    If possible try to take some pictures of your setup,mod, and what cables you have (where you got them as well). Im just shooting basic information until someone more knowledgeable chimes in. Best of luck.
    Last edited by ChuChu Flamingo; 09-15-2017 at 01:02 AM.


    he spends hundreds on scarves, of course he's a fag and then ChuChu Flamingo preserved the aftermath in a plastic case making sure it wasn't exposed to unstable air
    You're just upset that you're too goddam stupid to understand the games and whiff infinites.

  3. #3
    Timid Neo Newbie

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    Thanks for the info ChuChu! yeah unfortunately I am not sure as I bought this consolized MVS second hand. I will open it up and try to determine that or get some pics.

    For the RGB cable itself I tried this one: https://goo.gl/n8iBSP

    but I think I need one of these specific to MVS systems: https://goo.gl/FzmJci

    but to be honest I am pretty confused about which one I need now...

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    ChuChu Flamingo's Avatar
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    That seller is most likely using pin 7 for sync which is why he says some aes consoles will have csync, others will have composite. What this tells me about the cable is that it probably doesn't have resistors to bring down csync to 75ohms. Not sure if the diagram is wrong below as almost every picture I came across is broken due to photobucket being gay.

    pinout.jpg

    I wouldn't bother with the second cable as it uses sync on luma and is for the Omega CMVS. Unless you have a omega cmvs or the person who modded it has the same pinout on the din connector you will have compatibility problems (mainly it won't sync due to no luma).

    Atleast it works on your framemeister so we know it has to be a cable issue imo.

    -Have you tried any other consoles on your pvm/bvm through rgb?

    -What breakout cable are you using to connect directly to the pvm?

    -What model pvm/bvm?

    On a unrelated note for anyone reading this wall of text, what happens if you send a ttl signal straight from a console to a sync stripper? Would it still be syncing? Maybe that is your problem.

    But yeah if you have a multimeter and want to see if your cable is attenuated or not here is a good video.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3sE3uk5kPU
    Last edited by ChuChu Flamingo; 09-16-2017 at 04:20 AM.


    he spends hundreds on scarves, of course he's a fag and then ChuChu Flamingo preserved the aftermath in a plastic case making sure it wasn't exposed to unstable air
    You're just upset that you're too goddam stupid to understand the games and whiff infinites.

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    Mr. Big's Thug
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    I been asking the same questions elsewhere in the greater retro gaming community. Though to look here and found this thread.

    I don't think a multimeter is the right tool for the job, the problem, being a multi meter measures constant current and a C Sync is a signal, a wave form. So with a Multimeter you will get a fluctuating reading.
    I know for Sega Genesis RGB Scart cables there a 470Ω resistor to bring down the voltage level and a 10µF capacitor for DC coupling. So I decide to replicate that for my MVS dedicated Super-gun (so almost a Consolized MVS).



    Here is the attenuation circuits I made for myself, I got the specs from bits and pieces I found elsewhere. I am not sure if the Sync circuitry is correct or not, but its what I have in my current setup.
    By the way I have a MVS MV1T board, the board it self has no modifications other than original battery replaced for a 2032 battery holder mod (with the resistor for recharging removed) and a Unibios.
    21766510_10214195409180867_5136947906733518326_n.jpg
    The RGB Lines has a 75Ω resistor and a 220 µF cap (blue), the Sync is a 470Ω resistor and a 10µF cap (Brown) .
    “Strong people don't put others down... They lift them up.”
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    When I said to use a multimeter, it was just to see what components are in your cable. To make sure you have 75ohms you really need an oscilloscope and to display a true pure white screen with the console powered on to see if it is 75 ohms or not iirc.

    TL;DR basically you need to make sure your system output is in spec with the input of whatever device you use (75 ohm for consumer equipment generally, TTL for various other things). Some devices can operate on either.

    Pretty cool stuff there you built. Whenever I see someone consolize a board they usually wire it to a Jrok/Neobitz or some other type of encoder that handles the proper attenuation to 75ohms. Xian Xi would definitely be the person to ask what you need to have on your RGB lines since he does a lot of consolizations. What type of video display are you using for that MV1T?
    Last edited by ChuChu Flamingo; 09-25-2017 at 11:40 PM.


    he spends hundreds on scarves, of course he's a fag and then ChuChu Flamingo preserved the aftermath in a plastic case making sure it wasn't exposed to unstable air
    You're just upset that you're too goddam stupid to understand the games and whiff infinites.

  7. #7
    Mr. Big's Thug
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuChu Flamingo View Post
    When I said to use a multimeter, it was just to see what components are in your cable. To make sure you have 75ohms you really need an oscilloscope and to display a true pure white screen with the console powered on to see if it is 75 ohms or not iirc.

    TL;DR basically you need to make sure your system output is in spec with the input of whatever device you use (75 ohm for consumer equipment generally, TTL for various other things). Some devices can operate on either.

    Pretty cool stuff there you built. Whenever I see someone consolize a supergun they usually wire it to a Jrok/Neobitz or some other type of encoder that handles the proper attenuation to 75ohms. Xian Xi would definitely be the person to ask what you need to have on your RGB lines since he does a lot of consolizations. What type of video display are you using for that MV1T?
    As of right now it's going to a XRGB 2 Plus to a Older HD TV with VGA Input. Although I am waiting on a OSSC to be shipped next month.

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