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Thread: Toshiba PF Monitor Issues

  1. #1
    Angel's Love Slave
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    Toshiba PF Monitor Issues

    Hello all,

    I got hold of a Maximum Tune 3DX cab, comes with a Toshiba PF (supposed to be the best), but of course it has an issue of some sort.

    Every once in a while, while playing a game, the screen will suddenly go black, the game will continue to play without image, you can hear it and the game does not stop or pause. When the image comes back it does not appear like it paused.

    So far I have already done the following:
    -Changed to a different board (same type) and problem persists
    -boards are both confirmed working on different cab
    -Hooked up another monitor to the board, and screen does not go black (not the board)
    -Tried different vga cable (same issue)

    So basically, it does not appear that the board is the issue. Therefore it's the monitor?

    I did output an Initial D3 image to the MT3 cab. I could not replicate the image going black for some reason. I might try running the game longer.

    Usually the toshiba monitor will say on screen "no signal" if there isn't one, so there does not appear to be a signal loss. The screen just outputs an all black image.

    This is running on 31khz boards.

    Any ideas?

  2. #2
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    ChuChu Flamingo's Avatar
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    Probably a cold solder joint. How long does it take for the screen to start going black from a cold boot?


    he spends hundreds on scarves, of course he's a fag and then ChuChu Flamingo preserved the aftermath in a plastic case making sure it wasn't exposed to unstable air
    You're just upset that you're too goddam stupid to understand the games and whiff infinites.

  3. #3
    Angel's Love Slave
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuChu Flamingo View Post
    Probably a cold solder joint. How long does it take for the screen to start going black from a cold boot?
    Probably within 5 min about. That does seem like a possibility. I suppose it will be another "pull out the chassis, take a look, recap the whole thing while I'm at it, then hope it works better"

    From what I read online and have heard on a different forum, possible flyback failure could also be the culprit? This would be the worst case. So much for being such a good monitor.
    Last edited by LegoSlug; 09-08-2017 at 07:34 PM.

  4. #4
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    ChuChu Flamingo's Avatar
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    Are you a member by chance on arcadeotaku?

    A lot of real solid information on repairing monitors seems to be over there. You'll probably find answers over there faster.

    https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewfo...2771e2921d7b89


    he spends hundreds on scarves, of course he's a fag and then ChuChu Flamingo preserved the aftermath in a plastic case making sure it wasn't exposed to unstable air
    You're just upset that you're too goddam stupid to understand the games and whiff infinites.

  5. #5
    Angel's Love Slave
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    Tried something new. I powered up the cab with no board plugged in, simultaneously I powered up my initial D cabinet and ran the vga cable from that to the toshiba pf, and I did not have the same issue of the image suddenly going black.

    Maybe it is a power supply issue? This cabinet has a steering assembly with force feedback, front and seat speakers, a subwoofer, a card reader, and I am sure I left something out. Maybe the right combination of all those things causes the screen to go black.

    This is the power supply inside the cabinet:
    https://www.arcadespareparts.com/arc...ply/13790.html

    there's no voltage adjustment, but it's outputting 5v, 12v, and 24v on the dot. That powers force feedback pcb, and the i/o, and I am sure all the amps too. The motherboard power cable branches off the same cable that goes into the power supply input. All this seems to be tied into the isolation transformer.

    I guess, best way to test my theory would be to unplug all the sound amps... or run a naomi power supply (hooked up to a wall plug) to help power some of the components to see what happens.

    Are you a member by chance on arcadeotaku?

    A lot of real solid information on repairing monitors seems to be over there. You'll probably find answers over there faster.

    https://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewfo...2771e2921d7b89
    I used to have an account there, but I can't remember the password, and they make it a real hassle to reset it. I do read the stuff that's on there, when it is not password protected.
    Last edited by LegoSlug; 09-08-2017 at 11:25 PM.

  6. #6
    Angel's Love Slave
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    Well, tried plugging the motherboard outside the cab, and unplugging all the speakers. Problem still persisted. No idea what the issue is now.

  7. #7
    Member SnappleMan's Avatar
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    It's not that much of a problem if it is a flyback issue. As long as you take the necessary safety precautions it's an easy procedure to replace it, and if your screen is just going dark without any flickering or distortion it's most likely the flyback.

    One of my monitors was doing that and eventually it got to the point where it wouldn't even show any picture even though it was on. I opened it and found that the anode cable had partially come out from the back of the tube, so the high voltage wasn't getting all in there. The discharging of that was much louder and even made a little spark since I assume the voltage wasn't all going into the tube and building up, so if you plan on discharging I recommend you tape up as much of the screwdriver as you can just for added safety.

    Anyway the hardest part of the process would be finding the correct flyback, good luck figuring this out.
    -Andreas

  8. #8
    Angel's Love Slave
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    Quote Originally Posted by SnappleMan View Post
    It's not that much of a problem if it is a flyback issue. As long as you take the necessary safety precautions it's an easy procedure to replace it, and if your screen is just going dark without any flickering or distortion it's most likely the flyback.

    One of my monitors was doing that and eventually it got to the point where it wouldn't even show any picture even though it was on. I opened it and found that the anode cable had partially come out from the back of the tube, so the high voltage wasn't getting all in there. The discharging of that was much louder and even made a little spark since I assume the voltage wasn't all going into the tube and building up, so if you plan on discharging I recommend you tape up as much of the screwdriver as you can just for added safety.

    Anyway the hardest part of the process would be finding the correct flyback, good luck figuring this out.
    What I find odd is that the monitor does not go out when I input a video source from something else (in this case vga signal from initial d cab). But maybe it only occurs when under load from the steering motor?

    I guess next thing to try would be shut off the force feedback and then see what happens.

  9. #9
    Choi's Barber
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    Yeah I guess it could be some kind of interference

  10. #10
    Angel's Love Slave
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    Quote Originally Posted by kuze View Post
    Yeah I guess it could be some kind of interference
    Turned off the force feedback and it still happens. I'm gonna try hooking up a different crt monitor to the cab and see if there is any difference.

  11. #11
    Angel's Love Slave
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    Any idea how to adjust the b+ voltage on one of these?

  12. #12
    Angel's Love Slave
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    https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Toshiba_PF_D29C451

    That's the chassis I am dealing with. There is a switch on the chassis (not sure what it does), and what appears to be a black pot (not sure what that does either).

    EDIT: I give up, I'm sending the chassis back to the person that sold me the cab. They'll either fix or exchange it.
    Last edited by LegoSlug; 09-11-2017 at 05:04 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LegoSlug View Post
    https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Toshiba_PF_D29C451

    That's the chassis I am dealing with. There is a switch on the chassis (not sure what it does), and what appears to be a black pot (not sure what that does either).

    EDIT: I give up, I'm sending the chassis back to the person that sold me the cab. They'll either fix or exchange it.
    Hope you get it working, I have one in my NNC, and it its probably one of the nicest for 15k and 31k. If 15k works fine, I'd just lcd that maximum tune and fit that monitor into one of your other cabinets.

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