AES top shell

Shipwreck_00 · May 5, 2017

So I have a badly damaged top shell to my NTSC AES and I was thinking of replacing it with a Japanese one. Is there any differences or would this be a simple swap. I've seen some pictures with the Japanese ones have another screw on the bottom of the shell is that going to make a difference?

HeavyMachineGoob · May 5, 2017

Shipwreck_00 said:
So I have a badly damaged top shell to my NTSC AES and I was thinking of replacing it with a Japanese one.

North America and Japan both use NTSC. You should say, "my USA AES top shell is badly damaged".

If they both share the same number of screws underneath, then yes you can swap them. The only functional difference between a USA and JPN AES is the BIOS. Beyond that, it's purely cosmetic, namely a possible FCC sticker under the console and RF shielding inside. Everything else is identical.

Shipwreck_00 · May 5, 2017

My bad I always get that messed up. So I need to be on the look out for the one that doesn't have the screw down by the controller ports

HeavyMachineGoob · May 5, 2017

What's so bad about your USA AES shell anyway? It can't be that bad. Got a pic?

Shipwreck_00 · May 5, 2017

All the screw tabs are missing.

HeavyMachineGoob · May 5, 2017

You could always use some glue or epoxy. How often do you need to be inside it anyway? Get a UniBIOS in there and a re-cap done, seal the shell, done.

Xian Xi · May 6, 2017

Ya, epoxy that shit as long as the posts are still intact. Use something made specifically for plastic though as it creates a stronger bond.

Neo Alec · May 6, 2017

The screw holes aren't based on region. That's due to the motherboard revision. I noticed this right away when I was working on two different motherboards.

I agree about the epoxy. It's not worth saccing another good system.

awbacon · May 7, 2017

Xian Xi said:
Ya, epoxy that shit as long as the posts are still intact. Use something made specifically for plastic though as it creates a stronger bond.

I've had great luck lightly sanding plastic (where you can't see it) before epoxy application. Better bond w/ a roughed up surface

K_K · May 7, 2017

What about removing paint? The gimp who owned mine before me (not rot) had painted the casing silver, and added led lights to everything. How does one go about clearing that junk off?

aha2940 · May 7, 2017

K_K said:
What about removing paint? The gimp who owned mine before me (not rot) had painted the casing silver, and added led lights to everything. How does one go about clearing that junk off?

I think that can be removed with soft (high-grade, maybe 1200?) sanding paper, however the finishing of the shell will not be the same as when it was new, but at least will be color black again. Of course, forget about the neogeo logo on the front

BIG BEAR · May 8, 2017

OP....So you have a TOP shell with all of the pegs broken off?? screw tabs?
BB

Shipwreck_00 · May 10, 2017

All the tabs but one were broken off. But I found one stuck under the board so I glued it on the opposite side. Not exactly ideal but it'll do.

AES top shell

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HeavyMachineGoob

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Xian Xi

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