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Thread: Desoldering station recommendations?

  1. #1
    Crossed Swords Squire
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    Desoldering station recommendations?

    Hi guys,

    I have damaged countless pads and traces using my soldering iron to remove smt and dip chips.
    Time to get a proper tool so I need suggestions on which desoldering station to pick.
    My budget is roughly $150

    Checking at eBay and some seem to combine hot air and vacuum pump.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    If you don't do it properly, you will still damage pads with that tool.

    It's way easier that sucking pumps tho. But extra care is needed while using it.
    Use an hot air station for SMD's.

  3. #3
    ネオジオ
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    I know it may be out of your budget but the Hakko FR-300 desoldering gun is *awesome*...way beyond cheap stations..
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    Quote Originally Posted by massimiliano View Post
    I know it may be out of your budget but the Hakko FR-300 desoldering gun is *awesome*...way beyond cheap stations..
    Fry's or some other place had it for nearly (?) half price a few months ago, so it can drop to a better price.
    Take a bite out of crime.

  5. #5
    Crossed Swords Squire
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    Using Hakko FX-888-D soldering station and I am quite satisfied with it.
    Price for Hakko FR-300 is twice my budget but at the end of the day I'd rather have something that can last longer.
    That one doesn't seem to work with hot air though.
    As mentioned by Atro hot air seems easier to work with.

  6. #6
    ネオジオ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vendest View Post
    Using Hakko FX-888-D soldering station and I am quite satisfied with it.
    Price for Hakko FR-300 is twice my budget but at the end of the day I'd rather have something that can last longer.
    That one doesn't seem to work with hot air though.
    As mentioned by Atro hot air seems easier to work with.
    I also have the FX-888-D in combo with the FR-300, best buy of 2016... but yeah I'm not dealing with SMD


    IMG_9547.jpg
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  7. #7
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    I use this bad boy but it's kind of overkill since I don't do too much soldering and desoldering.

    Aoyue 474A++ Digital Desoldering Station with Built-in Vacuum Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ABJ4AEC..._Am69yb3D374Z3

  8. #8
    JammaNationX
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    I rarely ever use my hot air station and when I do, it takes way too long to do. I'd rather just use chipquik since it's way faster and I can reuse it too. Trust me, just get the FR-300. I have an 808 and it has problems but the FR-300 is it's successor and improved a lot of things.

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  10. #10
    Ghost Of Captain Kidd
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    Is the thermal performance and suction on the fr-300 that much better compared to the 808?

  11. #11
    Mr. Big's Thug
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    Quote Originally Posted by massimiliano View Post
    I also have the FX-888-D in combo with the FR-300, best buy of 2016... but yeah I'm not dealing with SMD


    IMG_9547.jpg
    Been looking to get a legit setup like this one. Found this combo on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hakko-FR-300...gAAOSwY45USWFt Been wanting to re cap the rest of my Arcade monitors chasis lately. Hate using the old school solder sucker. Time to pass on the old 30 watt Radio Shack iron and scoop this one up if the price seems good for the combo.



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    Last edited by mainman; 04-20-2017 at 12:31 AM.


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    I'm using this one and I absolutelly love it.

    to0613_1.jpg

    Goes up to 480コ Celcius and has a strong suction. Easy to maintain so far.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #15
    Crossed Swords Squire
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    Thanks for sharing!
    Will revise the budget and probably get a FR-300.

  16. #16
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    I have received the Hakko FR-300 today and put it to work immediately. I am blown away!
    Really thankful to the group here for helping me make the right choice.
    The (minor) drawback is the 100v only power supply which requires in my case a step down transformer.
    I have set the thermostat to 400C/750F to desolder couple of wires and it worked perfectly fine.
    Any recommended temperature setting before desoldering smd or dip?

  17. #17
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    Glad you like it!My suggestion is to get a couple of tips with different diameter then you are good for everything! (no clue about SMD as I'm not usually messing with it, but I saw few videos about a low temp desoldering alloy, XianXi has the name)
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by massimiliano View Post
    Glad you like it!My suggestion is to get a couple of tips with different diameter then you are good for everything! (no clue about SMD as I'm not usually messing with it, but I saw few videos about a low temp desoldering alloy, XianXi has the name)
    Chipquik is to expensive and messy for what it does. I only use it in circumstances where the pcb is just to densely populated with small SMT to risk the desoldering wand. A good hot air rework station is by far the best method to use to remove components


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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bagheera369 View Post
    IMG_20170419_235544598.jpg

    When you have friends who are geniuses, and care enough to send the very best.
    I looked to buy this bad boy, but it's way out of our budged at $1,475.98 + $12.49 shipping
    I settled for the Xytronic Rework Station LF-8800 for 300.
    I use the PACE station at my job so I can compare the two, but I am happy with the one I bought. The only difference I notice is that the Xytronic is faster at the desired temperature and the suction is much quieter.

  20. #20
    JammaNationX
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hairy Otter View Post
    I looked to buy this bad boy, but it's way out of our budged at $1,475.98 + $12.49 shipping
    I settled for the Xytronic Rework Station LF-8800 for 300€.
    I use the PACE station at my job so I can compare the two, but I am happy with the one I bought. The only difference I notice is that the Xytronic is faster at the desired temperature and the suction is much quieter.
    I had a Xytronic LF-7000 and loved it. Had no problems with it other than the desoldering wand got hot after extended use but it made sense that it would.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xian Xi View Post
    I had a Xytronic LF-7000 and loved it. Had no problems with it other than the desoldering wand got hot after extended use but it made sense that it would.
    The Xytronic LF-8800 has nice sleep and auto off feature. After 20 minutes of idleness the wands go into sleep mode and another 20 minutes it turns off. If you take the solder wand out of its stand it automatically turns on and in a matter of seconds it's back at working temperature. For the desolder iron to wake up you need to press the suck button. You can also shut off the wands separately at will. So when I'm soldering and don't plan to desolder stuff I leave the desolder wand off. The auto off feature has saved me a lot money both by burned solder tips and energy cost. I tend to forget shutting the station off after an evening of fun. I often found my previous solder station the next day (some times after e few days) still at working temperature, thankfully it didn't start a fire.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by massimiliano View Post
    Glad you like it!My suggestion is to get a couple of tips with different diameter then you are good for everything! (no clue about SMD as I'm not usually messing with it, but I saw few videos about a low temp desoldering alloy, XianXi has the name)
    I was checking on different tips available but I do not understand the difference between N50-01 and N50-03 which are both 0.8mm.
    The one packaged with the Hakko FR300 is N50-04 (1mm)
    Also I don't think a diameter bigger than 1mm will be necessary. What is your view on this?
    Each tip is about $20

    Edit: Found the information about the different tips on the English instructions manual

    tip.png
    Last edited by Vendest; 06-11-2017 at 10:45 AM.

  23. #23
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    S-993a for the win.
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  24. #24
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    Another China made desoldering station you consider is the "ZD-985" station. They are available under a few brand names, but it is based on Hakko. There is a review about them on EEVBlog, bought one last year and it's good for when I don't want to run my compressor.

  25. #25
    ネオジオ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vendest View Post
    I was checking on different tips available but I do not understand the difference between N50-01 and N50-03 which are both 0.8mm.
    The one packaged with the Hakko FR300 is N50-04 (1mm)
    Also I don't think a diameter bigger than 1mm will be necessary. What is your view on this?
    Each tip is about $20

    Edit: Found the information about the different tips on the English instructions manual

    tip.png
    I'd go for the N50-06 so to have the stock (small) and the larger one for everything too big...
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