need a little encoder guidance

tighecg

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I have been in the process of trying to build a supergun lately and I have had a small( maybe dumb) thought that has been stuck in the back of my head for a while now. Should I use the Neobitz v2.4 I have or not? I have had it for a couple of years and was going to use it for a cmvs. Then I got a NeoVGA and decided to use that on the cmvs. I have a couple of jrock encoders I'm not using at the moment also, and that is what I originally was going to use in the supergun. I wasn't sure what to do with the Neobitz after all that, so I said fuck it, put it in the supergun.

The supergun will mostly run an atomiswave, maybe a few other random boards in the future. My primary neo machine will most likely be an aes/neosd setup, or the NeoVGA.

So I was getting ready to mount the neobitz in the enclosure, and I felt like I was holding a neo holy relic in my hand. So I thought I would ask some others opinions on it. Is it a bad idea to use this just because I have it? Should it be saved for something better? It may seem like a dumb question, but I didn't want to use this thing 'just because'.
 

madman

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Why did you buy it if not to use it? Are people collectarding RGB encoders now to put on a shelf?
 

BLEAGH

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If you're gonna use the video signal that it outputs, then it's not really being used 'just because.'

I'm not sure what you're asking.

"I've been in the process of packing my own lunch lately. I have this ham and cheese croissant that I was gonna have for lunch. I decided to eat a chicken salad wrap instead. I also got these turkey clubs that i was gonna eat for lunch sometime too. While i was packing the wrap, I said fuck it and packed the croissant instead. Which one should I eat? Is it bad to eat a sammich just because it's lunchtime? Should i save the croissant for dinner? I dont want to eat just because im hungry. Help guyz!"
 
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tighecg

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Why did you buy it if not to use it?

My intention was to use it. But it sat on my shelf long enough for the NeoVGA to come out and I've decided to use that instead. Not collectarding, just have too many projects on my backlog.

As far as the sammich story, I get what your saying. This wasn't so much a question as I wanted opinions of what others would do in my situation. I have a BVM, so these outputs would only be used in rare situations, but they will get used. Since in the future I won't be using a neo with this supergun, but for the time I will be, I wondered if using the Neobitz would be a waste, seeing that it is optimized for the neo. The other issue is that if I don't use it, what would I use it for? If I never do use it, that is a waste also. I have been thinking about putting it in my aes, the outputs would be seldom used there also.

I realize this is kinda a shit post, it was just a small thing nagging me in the back of my head. When I was about to do something permanent, I thought I may as well see what others think
 
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xsq

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luxury problems. If I were you, I'd just make the super gun with RGB out (less clutter and you got a BVM ffs), then sell the encoders you don't need.

If for whatever reason you feel the neobitz is a "rare relic" and you have to have some encoder in the SG - use the jrok, sell the neobitz.

And I'd leave the home console alone as much as possible.

what a dumb thread.
 

GohanX

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The Neobitz was designed specifically for the Neo, if you run it in a supergun you may run into compatibility issues, particularly with composite or svideo outputs. Use a Jrok.
 

tighecg

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Thanks guys, I bought the JROK for this, I should of never deviated from the plan.
 

tighecg

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When I am using the rgb pass thru on the jrok, I need to cut the power to the encoder. Do I need to add pots to bring down the line levels, or do the onboard pots still bring down the levels? If I turn off the encoder, am I going to run high voltage into my monitor?
 

Xian Xi

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When I am using the rgb pass thru on the jrok, I need to cut the power to the encoder. Do I need to add pots to bring down the line levels, or do the onboard pots still bring down the levels? If I turn off the encoder, am I going to run high voltage into my monitor?

Why are you powering off the encoder for RGB passthrough?
 

tighecg

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Why are you powering off the encoder for RGB passthrough?

I thought I saw another thread that said to do this, but judging from your response, I am guessing not. I can't find that thread now either, so I must have misunderstood something. Now I'm seeing to add caps and resistors. Every step I take leads to more questions.

Looking at the encoder, I see 220 caps and what looks like 75 resistors on the rgb bypass lines. Is adding the extra caps and resistors not required as well? This thing is plug and play isn't it, and I'm making it way harder than I need to.
 
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Xian Xi

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I thought I saw another thread that said to do this, but judging from your response, I am guessing not. I can't find that thread now either, so I must have misunderstood something. Now I'm seeing to add caps and resistors. Every step I take leads to more questions.

Looking at the encoder, I see 220 caps and what looks like 75 resistors on the rgb bypass lines. Is adding the extra caps and resistors not required as well? This thing is plug and play isn't it, and I'm making it way harder than I need to.

The powering on method isn't needed for any encoder unless you are running dual encoders. People thought when using a Neobitz that they needed to power it off to increase the brightness of the RGB output but the actual problem was they were tapping the RGB output AFTER the input resistors when they should have tapped it before them.

If you have a JROK 4.1, it's ready to go as is, no need to add anything. The JROK 3.1 however lacks the RGB bypass option which is why I created the JNX Stryder that has it. If you have the 3.1, then you will need to add the 3 x 220ohm caps and 3 x 75ohm caps inline on the RGB lines outputs.
 

tighecg

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Thanks for clearing that up, I was searching a lot of neobitz stuff, that's probably where I picked that up. Everything is moving along nicely now. Thanks again Xian.
 

tighecg

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does anyone know what size the 6 pin molex connector for the rgb bypass is? I'm not finding much help with my searches, and measuring the pitch is kind of a bitch.
 

Xian Xi

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does anyone know what size the 6 pin molex connector for the rgb bypass is? I'm not finding much help with my searches, and measuring the pitch is kind of a bitch.

Standard 2.54mm aka .1"
 

tighecg

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ok, so I got this thing all done, and I'm having some sound issues. When using a mv-1c every time there is a sound made I get video interference. I have the supergun wired for jamma using pin 10 as +audio and L as -audio, running them through an attenuation circuit. I started poking around and when I disconnected the -audio the interference went away. Instead of using the -audio, should I be wiring directly to ground? I thought that was only for MVS. Also when I hook up the atomiswave I don't get any sound at all. I haven't tried the AW with the negative disconnected.
 

Xian Xi

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ok, so I got this thing all done, and I'm having some sound issues. When using a mv-1c every time there is a sound made I get video interference. I have the supergun wired for jamma using pin 10 as +audio and L as -audio, running them through an attenuation circuit. I started poking around and when I disconnected the -audio the interference went away. Instead of using the -audio, should I be wiring directly to ground? I thought that was only for MVS. Also when I hook up the atomiswave I don't get any sound at all. I haven't tried the AW with the negative disconnected.

What audio attenuation circuit are you using?
 

tighecg

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The one jasen hicks has on youtube. I thinks it's the same as the one in the JNX tutorials. I think the JNX goes to ground, hicks goes to the speaker negative.
 

tighecg

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a little more info. I am using the attenuation circuit with the dpdt switch in it. I'm actually using a 4pdt switch. I broke the +audio in two and feed it to two attenuation circuits on the 4pdt switch, then to two phono jacks. Initially I had the -audio run to the resistors on the circuits and the ground rings on the jacks. This way I was getting the interference on the mv-1c. I disconnected -audio from everything and the interference went away. I hooked ground up to everything, no interference. I hooked the resistors to the ground, and the ground rings to the -audio, the interference came back. I hooked one ground ring to -audio and disconnected the other, still interference. It seems that the -audio causes the interference no matter what.

I let the game sit at the title screen and start coining up. If I do not touch anything and no sounds are made, the screen looks great. As soon as I press the coin button and the sound is made, I get interference in the video until the sound stops. The more intense the sound the more interference.

I have only been testing this with the mv-1c. I have not tried to hook up the atomiswave during this troubleshooting. If I hook everything up to the ground, will this cause problems when I go to hook up other non-neo boards?
 

Xian Xi

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That circuit is wrong. Use my tutorial for the attenuation circuit with mono/stereo switch.
 

tighecg

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thanks again guys, I planned on getting these up a lot earlier, but shit happened. I decided I didn't want the rgb pots, and attenuation switch on the outside because I have little kids that like to play with such things.

WYoNcac.jpg

t7LMild.jpg

zDUorui.jpg

(Dremmel got away from me in a spot or two)
 

tighecg

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what did you use for the enclosure?


http://www.jameco.com/z/SY0207-R-Case-Metal-7-5-X9-8-X3-2-_209358.html

Depending on what power supply that is getting put in it, it can get a little cramped. I ended up not using the one I wanted, and the one I did use is a little underpowered on the -5v. There is a bit of flex on the sidewalls when connecting cables, but not too bad. If you don't handle your shit like a gorilla it should be all good. I'm really happy with it.
 
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