AES - No Video, No Sound, No Colors

Teela

Quiz Detective
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Been awhile since I've posted on here. (family, work, usual suspects)

I have had my AES for 15 years now and it just stopped working. I had it boxed up when I was moving and when I plugged it back in it failed to work. I do not even get a colored screen to troubleshoot. No signal is coming out at all.

It is one of the AES models that has a daughterboard up front and a strange cable that reaches across the back of the board. System was still sealed when I opened it so it should be a stock model.

I have already tried using a Master System power cable in case the SNK model had died. No change when using a new plug.

Not sure where to troubleshoot next or if anyone can recommend a repair service.

Thanks for reading!
 

Atro

Who?,
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"No nothing" ? If there's no ground, nothing will show.
I'd go for a bad PSU or PSU connector. Look for corrosion in that area and clean if necessary. Reflow the solder joint of the PSU connector too if they look bad.

If it was working before put to sleep, it's what comes to mind right away. Try to find another Din/RCA cable to test.
 

HeavyMachineGoob

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So you have a 1st gen AES system, those usually take 5v adapters. I hope for your sake the DC barrel jack is busted, because plugging a (master system) 9v ac adapter into a 5v console usually causes damage.
 

Atro

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So you have a 1st gen AES system, those usually take 5v adapters. I hope for your sake the DC barrel jack is busted, because plugging a (master system) 9v ac adapter into a 5v console usually causes damage.

Damn I'm so sleepy... I just read again his post and saw "daughterboard". He might be lucky has there is a 7805 voltage regulator inside, but nonetheless it still can cause damage.
 

Teela

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Thanks for the replies. Hopefully I didn't mess it up any more than it already was. I checked over the power supply and plug and didn't see any corrosion. The soldering looks good too.
 

Neo Alec

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I'll bet the voltage regulator is done. I recently fixed one of these by removing the daughterboard and bypassing it. You will need to use only 5v after doing that.
 

aha2940

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posting pics would help to be sure what you are dealing with right now.
 

DaisyAge

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Do you have a multimeter? plug it in and check to see that power is going through the 7805. That will at least tell you if the regulator is toast. I would also suggest bypassing the daughterboard if you can
 

Teela

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Do you have a multimeter? plug it in and check to see that power is going through the 7805. That will at least tell you if the regulator is toast. I would also suggest bypassing the daughterboard if you can

Thanks for the reply! Forgive me for my extreme ignorance. What is the 7805? :mr_t:

I can get my hands on a multimeter.
 

Teela

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So if I check the regulator and I get a reading does that mean it is good? If so, any thoughts on what to check next?
 

DaisyAge

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You want to check the input and out put legs one at a time. The input side should be around 5-6v and the output should 5v. If the output is higher or lower then its busted. Your next move should be checking continuity along the entire power rail. Start at the input jack and follow the traces as far as you can. Look for anything that looks blown like a resistor or capacitor along the way. you can test the resistors resistance in-circuit but it won't be as accurate as taking it off and checking. But if its relatively close give or take a dozen ohms it should be fine
 
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DaisyAge

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Can you also take another board shot, one with the whole board in view. Your other one is too blurry to make out, try and use a high res camera if you have one available
 

McColbo

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If you have the multimeter, I would also check your actual power plug. Plug it in the wall, then check the voltage at the barrel plug itself. That's an easy check to make sure the power plug itself is working.

That way you can rest easy knowing the plug itself is fine.

After that you can track where the voltage stops through the board like DasiyAge said.

EDIT: just to clarify, i'm talking about the barrel on the wall plug cord. Don't plug it into the system, just plug the wall wart into the wall, then check the voltage on the end of the plug that would go into the console.
 
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Xian Xi

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Whoa, whoa, it's a B1135 not a 7805. It's a 5v console.

If there is no video or audio, first confirm that your console is getting voltage, you can measure from any LS series chip or from the cart slot, edges are GND and center is 5v.

If there's no voltage at all, first thing I'd check is the socket for the power adapter as it gets dirty asf and sometimes prevents power from getting in. When I used to mod AES systems I would swap in a new power socket as well. The part number is in the Parts sourcing thread.
 

Teela

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Life’s been crazy. Lost most of my family in the past year so my AES has been sitting now for over four years. I actually thought about buying a new one until I found out the American AES units are incredibly rare. My gold system box alone is worth way too much. Insane market.

I finally tested the power adapter and that has voltage (official adapter so it outputs 5V). I don’t know how to test the cartridge slot for voltage. Would the “edges” of the board be the ground? I am not educated in any of this electronic stuff.

Also anyone know what happens if any of the chips are fried? Does that mean total loss or is there life after death?

Thanks.
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
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Life’s been crazy. Lost most of my family in the past year so my AES has been sitting now for over four years. I actually thought about buying a new one until I found out the American AES units are incredibly rare. My gold system box alone is worth way too much. Insane market.

I finally tested the power adapter and that has voltage (official adapter so it outputs 5V). I don’t know how to test the cartridge slot for voltage. Would the “edges” of the board be the ground? I am not educated in any of this electronic stuff.

Also anyone know what happens if any of the chips are fried? Does that mean total loss or is there life after death?

Thanks.
Yes, edges are ground, middle is 5v.
 

maki

Edo Express Delivery Guy
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I finally tested the power adapter and that has voltage (official adapter so it outputs 5V). I don’t know how to test the cartridge slot for voltage. Would the “edges” of the board be the ground? I am not educated in any of this electronic stuff.
TBH, since you know that the US AEC models aren't common, it might not be the best thing to start practising on.

Also anyone know what happens if any of the chips are fried? Does that mean total loss or is there life after death?
They could be replaced, could be lots of them that need to be replaced.
The problem is finding replacements for LSPC-A0, PRO-B0 and PRO-C0.
I had to buy another broken Neo Geo, and the first gen stuff is even more expensive and harder to find then the latter chipsets.
 

Teela

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TBH, since you know that the US AEC models aren't common, it might not be the best thing to start practising on.


They could be replaced, could be lots of them that need to be replaced.
The problem is finding replacements for LSPC-A0, PRO-B0 and PRO-C0.
I had to buy another broken Neo Geo, and the first gen stuff is even more expensive and harder to find then the latter chipsets.
Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. I agree in the fact that I’m not even remotely good with electronics so I don’t want to mess it up worse. I have done some minor soldering and that is about the extent of my technical skills.

I can do my own research when I’m off work later, but are the chipsets common between Japanese and American boards at least, or would I have to find other American boards to strip for chips?
 

maki

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but are the chipsets common between Japanese and American boards at least, or would I have to find other American boards to strip for chips?
there is no "Japanese" or "US"chipset, that is set via the Bios.

What you need is a Neo Geo (AES or MVS) that has the first generation chipset on it (LSPC-A0, PRO-B0 and PRO-C0), those have been hoarded, are hard to find and if you do, they will cost you.

I'm in Germany, when I needed a replacement LSPC-A0, I ordered a broken first gen MVS from the US, shipping and import taxes doubled the price, and it was still a good deal compared with what other were asking for..

You won't be able to strip board for ICs etc. unless you have the equipment and the skills for it, a QFP with 160 pins, thats not something beginners should start with, easy to break stuff while trying to desolder it.

I think you need someone experienced with Neo Geo to fix it for you, no point in you messing with it if I'm totally honest.
 

Teela

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there is no "Japanese" or "US"chipset, that is set via the Bios.

What you need is a Neo Geo (AES or MVS) that has the first generation chipset on it (LSPC-A0, PRO-B0 and PRO-C0), those have been hoarded, are hard to find and if you do, they will cost you.

I'm in Germany, when I needed a replacement LSPC-A0, I ordered a broken first gen MVS from the US, shipping and import taxes doubled the price, and it was still a good deal compared with what other were asking for..

You won't be able to strip board for ICs etc. unless you have the equipment and the skills for it, a QFP with 160 pins, thats not something beginners should start with, easy to break stuff while trying to desolder it.

I think you need someone experienced with Neo Geo to fix it for you, no point in you messing with it if I'm totally honest.
Thanks for the information. I just meant do Japanese systems have the same chips or only American systems (I know the region display die languages and things are based on the BIOS), but your response made that clear.
 
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