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Thread: AES - No Video, No Sound, No Colors

  1. #1
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    AES - No Video, No Sound, No Colors

    Been awhile since I've posted on here. (family, work, usual suspects)

    I have had my AES for 15 years now and it just stopped working. I had it boxed up when I was moving and when I plugged it back in it failed to work. I do not even get a colored screen to troubleshoot. No signal is coming out at all.

    It is one of the AES models that has a daughterboard up front and a strange cable that reaches across the back of the board. System was still sealed when I opened it so it should be a stock model.

    I have already tried using a Master System power cable in case the SNK model had died. No change when using a new plug.

    Not sure where to troubleshoot next or if anyone can recommend a repair service.

    Thanks for reading!

  2. #2
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    "No nothing" ? If there's no ground, nothing will show.
    I'd go for a bad PSU or PSU connector. Look for corrosion in that area and clean if necessary. Reflow the solder joint of the PSU connector too if they look bad.

    If it was working before put to sleep, it's what comes to mind right away. Try to find another Din/RCA cable to test.

  3. #3
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    So you have a 1st gen AES system, those usually take 5v adapters. I hope for your sake the DC barrel jack is busted, because plugging a (master system) 9v ac adapter into a 5v console usually causes damage.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeavyMachineGun View Post
    So you have a 1st gen AES system, those usually take 5v adapters. I hope for your sake the DC barrel jack is busted, because plugging a (master system) 9v ac adapter into a 5v console usually causes damage.
    Damn I'm so sleepy... I just read again his post and saw "daughterboard". He might be lucky has there is a 7805 voltage regulator inside, but nonetheless it still can cause damage.

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    Thanks for the replies. Hopefully I didn't mess it up any more than it already was. I checked over the power supply and plug and didn't see any corrosion. The soldering looks good too.

  6. #6

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    I'll bet the voltage regulator is done. I recently fixed one of these by removing the daughterboard and bypassing it. You will need to use only 5v after doing that.

  7. #7
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    Why not just replace the voltage regulator?
    My favourite pigeon had a fatal run-in with a cloud...

  8. #8
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    posting pics would help to be sure what you are dealing with right now.

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    Reviving this dead thread. I have a MVS, but I miss my AES. Here are the photos requested years ago. Hopefully someone has some ideas or a service I can send this in to.

    https://ibb.co/v1gBN6L
    https://ibb.co/8zbdTHm
    https://ibb.co/DRZxdR7
    https://ibb.co/K9K7HZ8
    https://ibb.co/f85KXvD

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    Do you have a multimeter? plug it in and check to see that power is going through the 7805. That will at least tell you if the regulator is toast. I would also suggest bypassing the daughterboard if you can

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    Quote Originally Posted by DasiyAge View Post
    Do you have a multimeter? plug it in and check to see that power is going through the 7805. That will at least tell you if the regulator is toast. I would also suggest bypassing the daughterboard if you can
    Thanks for the reply! Forgive me for my extreme ignorance. What is the 7805?

    I can get my hands on a multimeter.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teela View Post
    Thanks for the reply! Forgive me for my extreme ignorance. What is the 7805?

    I can get my hands on a multimeter.
    https://www.rakeshmondal.info/IC-7805-Voltage-Regulator

  13. #13
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    Thanks for posting this. I had just found a picture on the olí google too.

  14. #14
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    So if I check the regulator and I get a reading does that mean it is good? If so, any thoughts on what to check next?

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    You want to check the input and out put legs one at a time. The input side should be around 5-6v and the output should 5v. If the output is higher or lower then its busted. Your next move should be checking continuity along the entire power rail. Start at the input jack and follow the traces as far as you can. Look for anything that looks blown like a resistor or capacitor along the way. you can test the resistors resistance in-circuit but it won't be as accurate as taking it off and checking. But if its relatively close give or take a dozen ohms it should be fine
    Last edited by DasiyAge; 02-22-2020 at 11:34 AM.

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    Can you also take another board shot, one with the whole board in view. Your other one is too blurry to make out, try and use a high res camera if you have one available

  17. #17
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    I will try to get some hi-res shots up soon. Here is what I have for now. Thanks for all the help. Looking to get a multimeter tomorrow. Promised the kids we would be at the arcade today.

    https://ibb.co/g9n4xDn
    https://ibb.co/xg97yHt
    https://ibb.co/mHrrPZL
    https://ibb.co/C0BV3Gv
    https://ibb.co/qj7PbrL
    https://ibb.co/dcv2ZRG
    https://ibb.co/mcSLNZG

  18. #18
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    If you have the multimeter, I would also check your actual power plug. Plug it in the wall, then check the voltage at the barrel plug itself. That's an easy check to make sure the power plug itself is working.

    That way you can rest easy knowing the plug itself is fine.

    After that you can track where the voltage stops through the board like DasiyAge said.

    EDIT: just to clarify, i'm talking about the barrel on the wall plug cord. Don't plug it into the system, just plug the wall wart into the wall, then check the voltage on the end of the plug that would go into the console.
    Last edited by McColbo; 02-24-2020 at 08:15 AM.

  19. #19
    JammaNationX
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    Whoa, whoa, it's a B1135 not a 7805. It's a 5v console.

    If there is no video or audio, first confirm that your console is getting voltage, you can measure from any LS series chip or from the cart slot, edges are GND and center is 5v.

    If there's no voltage at all, first thing I'd check is the socket for the power adapter as it gets dirty asf and sometimes prevents power from getting in. When I used to mod AES systems I would swap in a new power socket as well. The part number is in the Parts sourcing thread.

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