MVS MV1B with Audio Problems

Rotanibor

n00b
Joined
Nov 5, 2011
Posts
9
Hey everyone,

I've collected CPS2 for a while but I just got my first MVS recently, an MV1B that's having some audio problems. I'm not the most knowledgeable about fixing hardware like this, but I've tried to do some research before posting this.

Testing has been done with a 161-in-1 cart (which works fine on an MV1FZS). I haven't tested it with every game, but mostly ones that I'm very familiar with the audio in. Problems are described as follows:

-Higher pitch sounds come through very distorted, or sometimes quiet. This seems to be localized in the background music of the games I've tested. Character's voices or sound effects don't seem to have any issues from what I've noticed.
-The vocals in the KOF98 intro are mostly missing, they can be partially hard at the start, but then soon disappear for the rest of the intro. The BGM in this is mostly fine otherwise besides some higher pitch sound effects being distorted.
-The music in Matrimelee is extremely distorted and hard to hear. Voices and sound effects are fine.
-Video problems during instances of high audio distortion. Sometimes the screen may flicker a little, but other times the image becomes very washed out or bright. Video problems do not occur until some sort of audio problem is occurring. In Matrimelee, with the extremely distorted music, the video will flicker frequently while the image cycles between being washed out and not. If no audio problems are occurring the image is fine.

I took some high quality pictures of the front and back of the PCBs, though I don't notice any obvious damage.
Front: http://i.imgur.com/r5FV1Mi.jpg
Back: http://i.imgur.com/HGiXSU1.jpg

I've tried cleaning the contacts between the PCBs, which really didn't have a noticeable effect, so it seems like I'm going to need to take things a step further.

I've frequently heard replacing the capacitors can fix audio problems. Re-capping is not something I've done with before but it seems simple enough, I'm mostly just worried about getting the right kind. There appears to be only two types of capacitors on this PCB:
Large Capacitors: 16v 470uf
Small Capacitors: 25v 4.7uf
Are these something I can pick up at Fry's, or is there anywhere else I should grab them (preferably on the cheap)? Anything to look out for when picking up capacitors? Should I just replace all of them, even the two that don't appear audio related?

Thanks for any help provided.
 
Last edited:

segasonicfan

Camel Slug
Joined
Feb 3, 2006
Posts
517
yeah Id try replacing caps- just get ones that match the readings on the ones you have there. Higher voltage is OK but *never* lower voltage rating.
I also have a broken MV-1B you could have for cheap parts if you want. I just took some RAM i needed off of it.

-Segasonicfan

P.S. Frys is not great for caps but you can grab em there. I'd recommend Jameco.com though, much more suited to the task.
 

Rotanibor

n00b
Joined
Nov 5, 2011
Posts
9
Thanks! I made an order over at Jameco, seems like it may take a few days for it to even ship though, so unless there is something else to do we'll just have to wait a little while.
 

Rotanibor

n00b
Joined
Nov 5, 2011
Posts
9
So, I was all ready to de-solder the capacitors on the board, and it turns out my soldering iron doesn't seem to get hot enough melt the solder on the board in the first place!

I'm using this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3SG6QA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

It works well enough for small projects, and melts my store bought solder fine, but it just straight up isn't melting the solder holding the capacitors in place. I think I've heard before that machine shopped stuff like this sometimes has solder that melts at higher temperatures?

So it seems like I'm going to need to buy a new iron now, what temperature/wattage should I look for to melt the solder on the board? Any recommendations on decent, middle of the road irons?

edit: I've heard the heat sink can make it hard to desolder. Is that what is going on here potentially?
 
Last edited:

bustedstr8

Trollbox Trade Federation,
Joined
Oct 15, 2007
Posts
943
Hakko-888 with a conical tip, 2mm chisel tip and 4mm chisel tip for heavy stuff like heatsinks. It's a great mid range iron, with good recovery since its 65watts and it's adjustable. You should be able to do 90% of game board soldering with the 2mm chisel at 650 degrees F.
 

segasonicfan

Camel Slug
Joined
Feb 3, 2006
Posts
517
They make Hakko knock off solder stations on ebay that are cheap as dirt and the same or better (I think they come from the same place actually). tips are only about $1 a piece and the station in 30 or so. mine says "MPJA" 301-A model. Its basically a Hakko in everything but name.

if you really dont want a nice soldering iron tho and just want to do this one job, a $15 30w weller iron from any hardware store will do it.

-Segasonicfan
 
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