MV-1C Too Bright on the Framemeister

I can't figure out why my MV-1C is too bright on the Framemeister. I have 75 ohm resistors on the R, G, and B lines. Before, I was mostly using this on a consumer CRT with a YBPr converter, so it probably wasn't bothering me very much, since I can just adjust the brightness on the TV.

I can't remember if this used to work, or if it has always been this bright. I have the Framemeister on the default settings, which looks fine on all the other consoles I use on it (black edges of the screen are just as black as the unused space on the left and right of the LCD. The brightness is 25, gamma 10, black level 0. The TV I use doesn't matter.

Any ideas what I might have missed or am overlooking?

Reduce your A/D setting in the FM and see if that helps. Otherwise you might need stronger resistors. When I had a mini I was using 75 ohm and it was perfect, but everyone's setup may vary.

The A/D level makes the whole screen too dark. Adjusting the black level helps the most, but the whites still look too bright.

I'm frustrated. I need this to be perfect and 75 ohm is what everyone says to use.

Use 124ohm

That seemed very specific, so I'm going to buy some. Thanks!

I put in 124 ohm resistors, and it's only marginally better. There is still a big difference between the unused sides of the wide screen and the 4:3 display area. Adjusting the black level on the Framemeister seems to help more now:

I'd like it to look more like my Famicom, where the blacks are almost the same as the unused part of the screen:

Maybe I should wire pots and measure the resistance when it looks good?

EDIT:
Well, I did my experiment with the pots and there was no setting that gets rid of the bright blacks. I guess it's not possible? I should adjust the black level on the Framemeister?

You could try a THS7314 RGB amp

This thread might be helpful: http://assemblergames.com/l/threads...ed-saturated-overly-bright-image.51917/page-2

Interesting thread. I've seen it before. The guy raining on everyone's parade in there is right, but I'm not sure it's worth bothering with for me. I'll probably just make the black level setting part of my framemeister profile for the Neo Geo.

124 ohms seems to be best. Maybe still a little on the bright side, I don't know. Thanks again, Xian.

Those who still insist on putting a resistor on the sync line, please note, I tried putting a pot on the sync line and it resulted in nothing but the ability to set it too high for the Framemeister.

I'm also going into a Framemeister with an mv1fz, and some of the lighter colors are really washed out. I may also try some resistors on RGB and report back.

EDIT: 100 Ohm resistors on each of the RGB lines (*not* sync) did it. The picture on my FM is amazing now.

I needed to add a 220ohm resistor to the sync line to fix distortion across the top of the image

Link with pic

I tried various values, but this one worked.
Not sure what the issue here is as everyone seems to have different results (its probably the TV...)

Try inline 220uF capacitors, + facing towards the MVS and - facing towards the output.

Just did the same thing (100ohm resistors on RGB) on the MV-1C that I just got in and that worked great as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Going back to this point:

RRR said:

You could try a THS7314 RGB amp

This thread might be helpful: http://assemblergames.com/l/threads...ed-saturated-overly-bright-image.51917/page-2

Click to expand...

I have a working solution based on a modified PCE RGB amp:



The results are encouraging:

Thanks for replying to my thread! I was thinking about starting a new thread about this.

So, do you guys need to set the black level on your Framemeister? Mine currently must have the black set to 8 with 124 ohm resistors on the lines.

No amount of resistance makes the blacks truly black. The color levels change, but the blacks stay bright.

You might just have the bias (or brightness) too high.

Too high on the Framemeister? What settings do you use?

I've never used a Framemeister, so I can't say exactly, but there may be a "brightness" or "black level" setting to mess with. If it's just the Neo-Geo doing this, though, then that may not be it. If you haven't tried capacitors inline like I said earlier, that's worth a try as well.

I just wanted to make an update on the problem I was having.

I was able to get the output levels on my MV-1C perfect, without the blacks being brighter than the black borders around the 4:3 image on my TV. And I didn't need to use an amp, although I'm sure that method would have been the best.

A lot of good information about video circuits seems to have hit the retrogaming community since I started this thread. This thread on reddit got me thinking more about it:
https://www.reddit.com/r/retrogamin...king_neogeo_mvsarcade_boards_to_ossc_without/

I followed this diagram, except I added a 220uF capacitor to the sync line, since that seems to be the consensus about TTL sync:


Adding the caps seemed to fix the black level problem.

There seems to be agreement that the brightness levels vary between different MVS boards; even within the same model board. So these days people suggest using pots for the RGB levels. I don't have any room for pots on my CMVS, so I experimented with a pot on the green line until I dialed it in. 330 ohm resistors seem to be the right level for my board. Now I can use FBX's Neo Geo Framemeister profile without having to turn down the A/D and turn up the black level.

The only remaining issue is that the analog picture is a bit noisier/less clean than most of my consoles, including my NGCD. This has always been an issue with my MV-1C, even before fixing the RGB levels with the new resistors. There doesn't seem to be anything that can be done to fix the noisy analog signal, other than installing an amp. However, turning up the black level from 1 to 2 in the color settings of the Framemeister all but corrects the issue. You can only see it on bright solid colors when you're right up next to the TV, and that is pretty normal for an analog video signal on the Framemeister.

So overall, I'm pretty happy with where I've dialed it in now. It's better than where it was. You'll be able to see the new adjustments in my Youtube videos, which hopefully won't look any different than before. Now I probably have sync level adjustments, etc that need to be made on my other consoles. I don't know when or if I'll ever bother fixing them. My SNES Jr. probably needs Voultar's board and proper sync attenuation.

The noise is most likely from your power supply.

You're probably right. I have a second power supply and it doesn't make much difference. I'm kind of married to using the two old supplies I have. I wonder how much trouble it will be to recap them.

I bought one of these replacement 5v AES AC adapters, and will use the official one as a backup. Seems to work pretty well although the cord is ridiculously short:
https://ebay.us/7rTCXL

No change in screen noise. I wonder if perhaps my video lines are picking up interference from somewhere. I moved the main ground wire that had been criss-crossing the video lines out of the way, but it seemed to make little difference.

Changed the 330 ohm resistors on my MV-1C to 220 ohm. The 330 ohm were more inline with a stock 3-3 or 3-4 AES, which have weak RGB. The 220 ohm resistors bring it closer to an RGB bypass AES. Looks brighter on a CRT now.

GohanX was right, the A/D level is key here. Per FirebrandX, stock systems should have the A/D level set around 160. RGB bypass should be set in the 130's.