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Thread: NeoVGA FAQ and Order Thread

  1. #176
    Lazy SNK Employee

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    MV4F (sorry bout the dirty board)
    MV4F.jpg

    Installed (finally )
    IMG_4471.jpg
    MVS-4-25 (ver. 1)
    MVS-4-25 (ver. 3) x3 now we just need to put them all in a row
    looking for a MVS-4-25 (ver. 2)

  2. #177
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    still available ?

    i emailed the guy but no response

    dave

  3. #178
    Hardened Shock Trooper

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    Wish I would have thought of ribbon cables!

    How did y'all attach the NeoVGA to the Neogeo boards?

  4. #179
    Lazy SNK Employee

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    on my mv4f I used a stand off from an old motherboard through one of the slot brace holes. Seen in the lower left of the neovga board.
    MVS-4-25 (ver. 1)
    MVS-4-25 (ver. 3) x3 now we just need to put them all in a row
    looking for a MVS-4-25 (ver. 2)

  5. #180
    Lazy SNK Employee

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    Dave, How long ago? Mike was last active here on 12/31, so you may just have to give him some time.
    MVS-4-25 (ver. 1)
    MVS-4-25 (ver. 3) x3 now we just need to put them all in a row
    looking for a MVS-4-25 (ver. 2)

  6. #181
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    nice idea!

  7. #182
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    So I'm wanting to set up scanlines on my neovga.
    how exactly do those jumpers work?
    can they both me active at the same time to give it thicker lines? or are they even/odd?
    Basically, should I use two switches (on/off) or one switch (scan0/off/scan1)?
    Quote Originally Posted by Rot View Post
    2. This is by far the dumbest thread I've seen in a while..

  8. #183
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    Two switches. They can both be active at the same time. I think it affected the thickness of the lines.
    Been awhile since I messed with it...

    From the faq: "Scanlines 0 and 1 (four different levels of scanline emulation, from none to full)"
    http://mikejmoffitt.com/neovga/docs/QuickReference.pdf

  9. #184
    Kuroko's Training Dummy
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    Indeed, 2 jumpers to use to obtain 4 different settings.
    Here is what it looks like:

    Level 0 - Scan Lines




    --- ---
    Level 1 - Scan Lines




    --- ---
    Level 2 - Scan Lines




    --- ---
    Level 3 - Scan Lines


    Last edited by Jontox; 03-22-2018 at 10:12 AM.

  10. #185
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    So I just got around to wiring one of these up. but I do not seem to get any type of response from the monitor I'm testing on. Just a black screen or it is looking for a signal but never finds it. I am using a Samsung Syncmaster 940Be, with a mv-1b.

    LED1 on the NeoVGA is solid green, and LED2 is solid red. Can anyone verify for me what I should be seeing with the LEDs?

    Anybody have any advice? I am in the process of checking all my solder joints now. There were a few(a lot) that I had to redo a couple(numerous) times. This is the finest solder work I have ever had to do, and my skills are average at best.

    Thanks


    There is also a NeoBiosMasta VMC and a Unibios 3.3 in the mix, and it is wired up for 480p vga.
    Last edited by tighecg; 08-06-2018 at 04:33 AM.
    I am this village's idiot

  11. #186
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    from post 161 about a page back:
    "One LED near the power regulators just shows that it's powered on, while the other one will show a 60Hz pulse (vsync), as that's a good indicator that it's alive and working properly."
    When I tested mine I just had it hooked up to a regular PC monitor

  12. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by buaku View Post
    from post 161 about a page back:
    "One LED near the power regulators just shows that it's powered on, while the other one will show a 60Hz pulse (vsync), as that's a good indicator that it's alive and working properly."
    When I tested mine I just had it hooked up to a regular PC monitor
    I looked at that post as well, I wasn't sure if the '60Hz pulse' meant that led2 should be flashing. Also when I see a red led on stuff like this, I just assume something is wrong. Thanks for the info
    I am this village's idiot

  13. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by tighecg View Post
    I looked at that post as well, I wasn't sure if the '60Hz pulse' meant that led2 should be flashing. Also when I see a red led on stuff like this, I just assume something is wrong. Thanks for the info
    No problem! I thought the same thing when I was having trouble with my display. Usually red means bad!
    I think my issue was bad connections to the clock line. At one point not all the red lines weren't soldered down, but it actually still worked. I'd say double check all connections and if you've soldered to a random part of the board, make sure it goes back to the correct spot on the chip.

    Have you tried it without the VMC attached?

  14. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by buaku View Post
    Have you tried it without the VMC attached?
    I have not, I thought I read in one of the threads that it would work fine with the regular NeoBiosMasta, so I assumed it would work with the VMC. I'll try taking that out after I finish checking these connections. I have only had time to get through about half of them, and everything looks good so far. I will try redoing the clock line also, that one felt a little iffy to me when I did it the first time.
    Last edited by tighecg; 08-08-2018 at 04:42 AM.
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  15. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by tighecg View Post
    I have not, I thought I read in one of the threads that it would work fine with the regular NeoBiosMasta, so I assumed it would work with the VMC. I'll try taking that out after I finish checking these connections. I have only had time to get through about half of them, and everything looks good so far. I will try redoing the clock line also, that one felt a little iffy to me when I did it the first time.
    So with mine I used the upside down socket thing and sometimes it wasn't making contact with the chip. I thought I had messed something up, but I just re-seated it. It was a challenge to solder all that stuff up.

  16. #191
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    I ended up resoldering the clock line, and I'm getting something on screen now, but it is not centered. I know I saw something about that in one of these threads, I have yet to find it yet tho. Everything works fine with the VMC. Thanks buaku.
    I am this village's idiot

  17. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by tighecg View Post
    I ended up resoldering the clock line, and I'm getting something on screen now, but it is not centered. I know I saw something about that in one of these threads, I have yet to find it yet tho. Everything works fine with the VMC. Thanks buaku.
    Glad at least something is showing up now!! Is there maybe another monitor to try with? Or make sure the grounding line that wraps the clock wire is soldered well and not bridged to the clock.
    Maybe there's interference on the clock line?

  18. #193
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    Are these still for sale? I really want to buy one

    update: i got a response from Mike there are none available but he is thinking about a revision on the board in future
    Last edited by Flain; 08-31-2018 at 08:26 PM.

  19. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flain View Post

    update: i got a response from Mike there are none available but he is thinking about a revision on the board in future
    If any revision will be considered, please avoid these soldering pads for wires.
    I bought two of them and the second one had 3 soldering pads ripped off the pcb during soldering.
    I am currently trying to fix this with 33 awg Wiredís through the testing holes.

    Holes like the ones for outgoing signals from the board is the best for connecting wires 22 awg without any damage and durable solution

    Just my 2 cents

  20. #195
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    This has probably been answered already, but I'm still having issues. I have a neoVGA that ive been wanting to install for a while now. However I am still confused the where to wire up the clock signal wire to the board. I am using an MV1C. Ive seen people scratch away a little bit of surface and solder directly to the board, but I don't feel safe doing that. I tried that on a test board and it fried a ram chip. Is there a better place to do this? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Visual assistance is also helpful. Thanks!

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