SCART to Component (RGB to YPbPr) Converter Confusion

Neo Alec

Ned's Ninja Academy Dropout
20 Year Member
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Dec 7, 2000
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I already have a Framemeister for my LCD, but I'd still like a way to connect RGB to my old CRT's. I'd rather use my old CRT TV's than buy a professional RGB monitor. There's too much space between the pixels so the games don't look like I remember.

I've been looking to buy a SCART to component adapter for this for a while, but haven't been able to sort out what's available.

The CSY-2100 seems to be the most well-known product, but it seems to run at least $100 and I don't know if there's any evidence it's better than the less expensive clones available. I've also read about geometry issues with it. Are the clones any better or worse?

I've also heard this adapter uses the composite signal for sync. Most of my systems and cables use CSYNC. Would I be able to re-wire this and it would work?

Would it work better if I just got a Jrok or Neobitz encoder and put together my own box? Would I run into compatibility issues, maybe with some of my arcade boards? The Jrok s-video encoder in my supergun has been pretty good with compatibility.

Thanks for any input.
 

ballzdeepx

Rugal's Secretary
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Sep 20, 2004
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3,073
For audio I had one 4 ft set of L/R audio cables. I cut each end to be about 5 inches , stripped them to expose the wires, then isolated the L/R and ground wires.

If you open up your framemeister rgb scart adapter you can just solder the wires above to pins 2/4/6 (Right/Ground/Left) and then hang them out the side of the plastic housing before you clamp everything down. From there you can just slap 2 female to female adapters on the ends and use a reg pair of audio cables to your receiver inputs. (I had to do this as my stereo doesn't have HDMI)

For the CVS287 you can do literally the same thing with the other end of the cable you cut earlier, tap the appropriate pins and hang the cables out the side before screwing the lid back down.

As for rewiring your consoles, I honestly wouldn't bother unless you were getting terrible checkerboard patterns or something. I have a mix of consoles and cables that use csync and cvid and this thing doesn't care. It does a great job isolating sync somehow, and I don't think it uses a lm1881 (which can be picky in my experience)
 

GohanX

Horrible Goose
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Sep 28, 2001
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I think I will get the CVS287, and an audio stripper, which I need for the Framemeister too. Why is the included power adapter 12v? I thought it was 5v.

Should I rewire for CSYNC?

The unit comes with a 12v adapter and an internal regulator takes it down to 5V. Skips disabled the internal regulator and used a 5V supply instead.

As far as sync, that thing is the least picky device I've ever seen, I've never had a cable not work on it, no matter what type of sync the cable was wired for. If you did need ot change something, you'd be changing the cable and not the device, as there is no separate sync line on the scart input.
 

SmokeMonster

Morden's Lackey
Joined
Jan 25, 2014
Posts
365
Thanks for confirming the wide sync compatibility GohanX. I ordered a CVS-287 just now.

Its voltage regulator is a 7805, correct? I read Skips' thread but his pictures no longer load. Is it really as simple as removing the 7805 and jumping its input to its output? After, a 5V 2A PSU would then suffice? Mine will be standalone, not for a CMVS.
 

SmokeMonster

Morden's Lackey
Joined
Jan 25, 2014
Posts
365
I was able to pull the 7805 and jump its in/out points to run it on a 5V/2A PSU. I also added 3.5mm audio in and out.

This is a great little converter. I'm running it to an Extron DVS-204 for 480p.
 

Neo Alec

Ned's Ninja Academy Dropout
20 Year Member
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Can someone show me exactly how to remove the regulator and get my CVS287 working with 5v? I don't want to goof it up.
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
15 Year Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Posts
27,750
Can someone show me exactly how to remove the regulator and get my CVS287 working with 5v? I don't want to goof it up.

Just remove the 7805, has three legs, input ground and output, once you remove it, just jump the connection from the power socket to the 5v output where the regulator was.
 
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