Dead Nanao MS-2931? Monitor Just Stopped Working

yoooooon

n00b
Joined
Jan 6, 2013
Posts
15
Hi everyone,

I was just playing 3rd Strike on my Sega Blast City with a Nanao MS-2931 Monitor then all of a sudden the monitor just shut off. Like it lost power or something.

Upon visual inspection, everything looked fine - no black goop or anything and there haven't been any modifications in a long while.

Additionally, there's no neck glow or seemingly any power going to the tube at all. Any guidance or am I hosed? If that's the case, anyone got an ms-2931 for sale? :(

EDIT: aaaaaand I posted this in the wrong forum. Sorry for such noob.

Thanks!
-yoon
 
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KaPH33n

Sieger's Squire
Joined
Jan 28, 2010
Posts
819
wait what? when did this happen? I'm sure we can fix it some how. black goop is an urban legend I think. People have tested it and there's no conductivity I thought. Haven't seen it first hand but yeah...

I can come over with a multimeter and we'll figure out where the power is getting stuck.
 

skate323k137

Professional College Dropout
10 Year Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2013
Posts
4,186
I've heard that there are a couple parts that love to go out on those... voltage regulators maybe? Ping cdamm I think he ordered a bunch of the little buggers.
 

joecommando

Amusaka's Lacky
10 Year Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2010
Posts
970
Well no neck glow definitely means no power somewhere. Is there a fuse on these things? check that first and if its blown usually something caused it to blow have seen flybacks go on other monitors and that has caused the fuse to blow. are you sure its a monitor issue? does the game play blind?
 

mjmjr25

went home to be a family man
10 Year Member
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Dec 18, 2010
Posts
2,865
Do you have sound if you put a board in? I was still able to get sound when my chassis went but I had nothing on the monitor - monitor was still good though. A replacement chassis will run $250 range (or at least it did when I was looking) - even knockoff rododrons and wei ya's are not cheap.

You've taken out the chassis and confirmed there is nothing by 750 A1 chip? Some folks swear the stuff that leaks is not corrosive - but I have 100% certainty it is what fried mine in a similar fashion to yours - mid game - boom - nothing. It may only affect the chassis if it is on at the time.
 

yoooooon

n00b
Joined
Jan 6, 2013
Posts
15
Do you have sound if you put a board in? I was still able to get sound when my chassis went but I had nothing on the monitor - monitor was still good though. A replacement chassis will run $250 range (or at least it did when I was looking) - even knockoff rododrons and wei ya's are not cheap.

You've taken out the chassis and confirmed there is nothing by 750 A1 chip? Some folks swear the stuff that leaks is not corrosive - but I have 100% certainty it is what fried mine in a similar fashion to yours - mid game - boom - nothing. It may only affect the chassis if it is on at the time.

Holy shit, totally left this thread unattended.

Long story short, I sent it off to "Sharp Image Repair" courtesy of a referral from mr. 300 nguyens. They have it now and will be working on it.

A few answers to previous questions:
1. Yes there is sound, so the damn thing works besides the monitor.
2. Actually, upon even closer inspection, there is black goop. A good amount. Not sure if it fried anything or not - I couldn't verify, but there definitely was some goop.
3. I did try to replace one of the voltage regulators. I found this thread: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=240657 and tried replacing that voltage regulator. Was hoping it would work, but nope!
4. I checked the fuses with a multimeter, and they appeared to be working fine. At this point, I didn't want to research more because I figured I might as well send it to a professional.
5. Chris let's play 3rd Strike. Been hella busy with IRL shit but down to play!!!!!

<3 u guys and thanks for the tips. Will keep you guys posted how this repair goes.
 

themisterfalcon

Buriki-One Fight Promoter
15 Year Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2005
Posts
4,023
That stinks Yoon. I wonder if that's the one that Chad @ Arcade Cup fixed up just a year or so ago. I can't keep up with you and your chassis swapping though :)
 

yoooooon

n00b
Joined
Jan 6, 2013
Posts
15
Nah - it's not. It's one I bought second hand from someone else so I could get two auto-syncing ones. Hope Roger's connection has got the skillz to fix.

I sold the switching 2930 to Chris... but I still have it - hahaha. I gotta get it to him soon.
 

KaPH33n

Sieger's Squire
Joined
Jan 28, 2010
Posts
819
I'm down for 3s, always. No rush on getting me that chassis though... it's just a backup. good to be triple redundant so there's no way I won't be able to play 3s (in this lifetime)

and yes... I have 2 backup cps3 motherboards with enough ram for 3s
 

LWK

Earl of Sexyheim
20 Year Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2001
Posts
18,070
First thing is to check the fuse, if it's blown. You can waste money and replace it, if it blows again, it isn't the fuse. This next part requires a discharge, and removing the anode cup from the actual crt. You decide personally to attempt this, make sure it's unplugged and be very careful. I have a wire attached to a flathead screwdriver and remove it from there with my hand on the plastic part of the screwdriver... The wire is attached to a metal object, in this case the actual metal cabinet chassis. Do not touch it while doing so. If the fuse is blown. it's time to check the horizontal output transistor, I personally would desolder that and check and see if it's open at all points. Base/Emitter/Collector. If it is, it's bad and needs to be replaced. If it isn't the H.O.T You need to check and see if the flyback is fried, look for visual damage. If it appears fine, then check the bottom of the chassis for cold solder joints. Also check the neckboard. Caps could be bad also, check for bulging capacitors on the chassis. Even if they aren't bulging, they can be dried out. You need a ESR meter to test capacitors, and even then they have to be removed out of circuit first, the cost of a meter that can measure capacitors isn't usually worth it, and most people just buy a cap kit and replace all the necessary capacitors. Some multimeters can test them to though.This is the worst component in electronics as time just seems to destroy these.
 
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