PCM Sound & Stability Fixes Multicarts - 120 in 1, 138 in 1, 161 in 1 and others.

MRTjamma

n00b
Joined
Sep 22, 2018
Posts
6
does anyone have any tips on how we would go about seeing if the bridging of the two pins was successful? i still get resets but perhaps i may have did it wrong.
can an unsuccessful bridge or shortening cause damage onto other components along the chain? arcade psu popped the last time i used the cart but maybe this was just pure coincidence as my motherboard and supergun are all still fine.
 

Razoola

Divine Hand of the UniBIOS,
Staff member
20 Year Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2002
Posts
4,662
It makes a big difference on a 4SLOT.
 

glac81

n00b
Joined
Nov 29, 2018
Posts
12
I am buying the material to enhance my 138 in 1 cartridge. I would like to know if the 100 nF SMD capacitors voltage rating can be 25 V instead of 50 V. The 25 V are cheaper :)
 

Dhampird

n00b
Joined
Jan 15, 2015
Posts
3
Hello, i have 161 in 1 revision 2, i opened the cart and i found 2 ceramic caps, i think for fix sound, i already did stability fix for revision 2, that bridge between 2 cart pins...but...
The sound is shit...in a lot of games i have problems with sounds, i think all of them, problems like...pitched sound, channels that sounds and interrupt sounds, sounds losted in games...is that normal? Is a lot noticiable. If anyone have 161 in 1 Rev.2 please let me know if there is available different sound fixes, i use a 4 Slot MVS board and after i do stability fix bridge the cart works ok, responds ok to press 1P 5 seconds and exit to menu, and i dont get hangs with cart, dont know but the sound is a pain in the ass...Mine bios in the 4 slot Base MVS is original Japanese Bios.
 
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GadgetUK

Ace Ghost Pilot
Joined
Sep 27, 2013
Posts
1,323
Hello, i have 161 in 1 revision 2, i opened the cart and i found 2 ceramic caps, i think for fix sound, i already did stability fix for revision 2, that bridge between 2 cart pins...but...
The sound is shit...in a lot of games i have problems with sounds, i think all of them, problems like...pitched sound, channels that sounds and interrupt sounds, sounds losted in games...is that normal? Is a lot noticiable. If anyone have 161 in 1 Rev.2 please let me know if there is available different sound fixes, i use a 4 Slot MVS board and after i do stability fix bridge the cart works ok, responds ok to press 1P 5 seconds and exit to menu, and i dont get hangs with cart, dont know but the sound is a pain in the ass...Mine bios in the 4 slot Base MVS is original Japanese Bios.

Did you fit the 2 x 47pF capacitors at positions C5 and C6 (top board)?
 

TK86079

Mr. Big's Thug
Joined
Mar 24, 2019
Posts
198
I bought myself one of the 161 cards, when I put it in my c1 it delates all saved highscores I made with normal games. Is this an issue what can be fixed?
 

Razoola

Divine Hand of the UniBIOS,
Staff member
20 Year Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2002
Posts
4,662
The MV-1C can only save highsores for 8 games.
 

GadgetUK

Ace Ghost Pilot
Joined
Sep 27, 2013
Posts
1,323
Ok, not so glorious.
Thanks for your help.

Yeah, it is annoying! It's better to use the 138 in 1 with DIP switch mod imo as that doesn't delete the saves. Or if you've got the extra cash get a Neo SD.
 

TK86079

Mr. Big's Thug
Joined
Mar 24, 2019
Posts
198
I think I use a different MVS for this thing. I do not play it very often, but it still has some games I miss as originals.
 

Finch

Hardened Shock Trooper
10 Year Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Posts
431

Ok, I finally got around to adding all these caps to my 161-in-1 and tested it out and so far everything works great, but Is there a definitive list of what to test? I know some games have bad sound like Strikers 1945, some crash like Pulstar (but I don't know where it crashes) and previously MS3 had messed up graphics that are now ok, but I would like to go through and 100% test every known problem with the 161-in-1 cart and see how many these caps fixed.

Soldering these was pretty easy, seems like this is by far the quickest and easiest 161-in-1 to fix.
 

lufeig

n00b
Joined
Aug 6, 2019
Posts
13
i finally got my 161 in 1 mvs cartridge

rounded corners label, rev 2 pcb with real connectors on both sides of ribbon cable, just like the picture in this post: https://bit.ly/2k4yrcV

all caps came populated. stock stability fix, no need to mod it manually.

Spoiler:
IMG_20190907_021357.jpg


i just had to remove cap c3, as it was said to cause tiny sound.

puzzle bobble still has some crackling sounds. sometimes it gets almost muted. seems to be unsolvable. :confused:
 
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Joined
May 19, 2018
Posts
35
Hi, I'm having issues with these mods, a started a thread about it, but maybe I should have just posted here?

From my thread here
I'm having issues getting the 138-in-1 dip switch mod to work. I applied GadgetUK's stability fixes, and the prebuilt dipswitch purchased from nornor1. I am unsure if I damaged something while trying to apply GadgetUK's fixes, or if I simply used the wrong capacitors. None of the voltage values for the required capacitors were listed, only their uf values were, so I just picked random voltages. I am unsure if this makes much of a difference. All of the graphics are corrupted and there is no sound, I recorded a video of it.

 
Joined
May 19, 2018
Posts
35
I threw out the 138 in 1 and attempted the mods on my 120 in 1, things seem to be working fine but I did notice some minor graphical glitches on pulstar when hitting the continue screen. How eletrically sound is my 120 in 1 now? Since the 120 in 1 doesn't have a "c12" pad for the capacitor next to the voltage regulator I just soldered the 100 uf cap onto the pins of the regulator it's self. Also because there are two separate sets of header pins and 2 separate altera chips on the 120 in 1 board I added a 47uf cap for each set, I don't know if it makes a difference or not? Are these mods I did ok? I know they are a little messy, but are they electrically safe?

20200229_214758.jpg
20200229_214904.jpg
20200229_214947.jpg
20200229_215027.jpg
 

pier

Crazed MVS Addict
Joined
Jan 24, 2020
Posts
139
I threw out the 138 in 1 and attempted the mods on my 120 in 1, things seem to be working fine but I did notice some minor graphical glitches on pulstar when hitting the continue screen. How eletrically sound is my 120 in 1 now? Since the 120 in 1 doesn't have a "c12" pad for the capacitor next to the voltage regulator I just soldered the 100 uf cap onto the pins of the regulator it's self. Also because there are two separate sets of header pins and 2 separate altera chips on the 120 in 1 board I added a 47uf cap for each set, I don't know if it makes a difference or not? Are these mods I did ok? I know they are a little messy, but are they electrically safe?

View attachment 55933
View attachment 55934
View attachment 55935
View attachment 55936

i have the same board. can you explain me what were iusses before mod and if you fixed it, please?
 

pier

Crazed MVS Addict
Joined
Jan 24, 2020
Posts
139
Hello! I have a new version of the 161 in 1 cart. have done your mods but i get crackling sound in puzzle bobble? Here is my cart!
i76UZLC.jpg

g8SgbUt.jpg

vo0japq.jpg

s1WIsXC.jpg


what is the pc8,pc6,pc4 and pc2 caps capacityon the 3 Nin1 board?
what is pc7,pc1,pc2 and cable caps capacity on the other board?
did you had sound iusse before modding it?
 

Miketage

n00b
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Posts
23
Hey everyone, so I got this cart not too long ago and of course it has audio issues the sound gets really scratchy after a while of playing. I've been researching the fixes and keep finding different versions that don't match mine or have little differences. I think mine is a version 2 but all the pads are populated and the voltage regulators are smaller than other examples I've seen. Basically I'm looking for help on what to do to get this cart squared away the proper way.

IMG_5142.JPGIMG_5143.JPGIMG_5144.JPGIMG_5145.JPG
 

R-Type

n00b
Joined
Aug 31, 2020
Posts
3
Hello, I purchased one of these off Ebay last month(08/2020), here's what I got inside of mine:

ieJc26W.jpg

XXxQxXN.jpg


So it appears there is yet another revision 2020/02 to the previous versions/permutations. Same 161-1 content as others as noted. It seems a further simplification in design, incorporating suggested fixes and cost reductions. I replaced the FMZ caps on mine with nichicons, zero trust for any off brand part with esr near power resistor levels, heh. I think the whole reason why they're doing a sub pcb "finger" is because they want to avoid hot air soldering on those flash chips. Probably well-used parts near the end of their lifecycle, but would function good enough as read only roms. Don't even get me started on how many signaling issues they've probably created with this design, probably doesn't matter if they're accessing them at slow clock rates though.
 
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Joined
Apr 26, 2020
Posts
5
I have the new version 161 the last two posts mentioned as well. I have a Fusion converter that's been rock solid on other carts and so far my 161 is booting with garbled text / graphics then flashes to blue. Just cracked it open today so I'm gonna try replacing the electrolytics and maybe reflow some solder points and see if it comes to life. In the mean time, is anyone else running a "new version" 161 successfully on a Fusion converter into an AES and if so, did you find any mods particularly helpful or necessary? Just trying to figure out if it's possible with my particular setup.

P.S. my AES is a Japanese 9v model and I'm currently running this recommended power supply https://www.digikey.com/short/pb1bp4
 

Jonap

Mega Shock!!
Joined
Oct 10, 2006
Posts
100
The people with new 161 in 1 boards of 2020 have the all know issues of that carts? sounds, glitches aero fighters 3, etc? i have it and dont have that kind of problems
 

burn_654

n00b
Joined
Dec 26, 2020
Posts
1
Hello, I purchased one of these off Ebay last month(08/2020), here's what I got inside of mine:

ieJc26W.jpg

XXxQxXN.jpg


So it appears there is yet another revision 2020/02 to the previous versions/permutations. Same 161-1 content as others as noted. It seems a further simplification in design, incorporating suggested fixes and cost reductions. I replaced the FMZ caps on mine with nichicons, zero trust for any off brand part with esr near power resistor levels, heh. I think the whole reason why they're doing a sub pcb "finger" is because they want to avoid hot air soldering on those flash chips. Probably well-used parts near the end of their lifecycle, but would function good enough as read only roms. Don't even get me started on how many signaling issues they've probably created with this design, probably doesn't matter if they're accessing them at slow clock rates though.

Hi all, I have what appears to be a rev. 4 161 in 1 - identical to these photos and the info here https://wiki.neogeodev.org/index.php?title=161-in-1_Series_1#Version_2_design_flaw_.2F_stability_fix

I'm using this on an mv1b1 that I'm consolizing. It seems to work pretty well all told. Well enough to beat Metal Slug! But I still get some odd or 'scratchy' bits in some sounds, notably the pistol fire in Metal Slug and sounds in Puzzle Bobble. It looks like all the ceramic capacitor spaces are populated that was such an issue in previous boards. The two cartridge pins are pre-bridged. Anyone have any thoughts on capacitor additions/removals? I hear c3 is one that may need removed in some boards?

I have built the MKL stereo amp and for most cases things sound pretty good (and in stereo), could this be incompatible with this cart? I can swap it with the 'normal' stereo mod I suppose to see if it improves. I'm running this through a tv/scart setup so I thought that's what I wanted. I don't have another MVS cart to test with unfortunately.
 
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DaisyAge

Galford's Armourer
Joined
Jun 10, 2018
Posts
457
AFAIK most if not all 161 carts have problems with Puzzle Bobble sound, and the Metal Slug series is hit an miss. Each cart is different in terms of quality as I've had a few and each one could and couldn't accurately play different games. Its one of those "you get what you paid for" carts.
 
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