Ikegami TM20-17R and TM20-18R
This reveiew covers two similar Ikegami models, and will discuss differences between the two models.
The TM20-17R was designed as a low-cost, bare bones production monitor. It's more expensive brother, the 18R looks similar, and uses the exact same picture tube (a panasonic, by the way). So what's the difference between these two monitors exactly?
Ikegami monitors are strange beasts in that they share some similar characteristics that the highest Sony BVM moniors have, and have some really low-tech features at the same time. For example, both the 17R and 18R have four manual adjust picture knobs (Chroma, Phase, Brightness, Contrast) that override the presets. (More on this later) They both have an underscan and 16:9 mode, as well as individual RGB color toggling. In fact, the only thing different between the two models on the front is a hidden panel on the 18R which accesses a menu to store and change color presets. The 17R has manual screwdriver preset adjustments here instead.
In the professional world 20 years ago, all of the high-end production companies and TV stations used Sony monitors. Ikegami's were generally used by the TV stations on a budget. That isn't to say they necessarily suck...they are just going to be a bit closer to your consumer TV, rather than having that sterile, perfect picture that the Sony's have. Ikegami's are monitors with character!
So what's the difference between the two models here? All on the inside. While the two monitors share the same picture tube, the circuitry is completely different. Open up the 17R and "low-cost" becomes apparent. There is one simple video processing board, and one power/deflection board and that's it. Even the CRT neck board is extremely simple with almost nothing on it. The 18R on the other hand, is a complex beast with a separate input board from the video processing board, a power/deflection board that doesn't house the flyback transformer. The flyback is on it's own circuit board, similar to a Sony BVM, making replacing it a simple task. (Although good luck finding one today!) The neck board is very advanced with color transistors attached to huge heat sinks. Yet it is very easy to detach completely from the def/power board.
The biggest difference between the two models is a micro-computer board installed on the 18R. This adds an on-screen menu that allows you to save and recall color presets similar to a Sony BVM. It also allows the use of an auto-setup probe to get perfect colors, similar to the BVM's probe. (Good luck finding one though!)
[Not reviewed here, but there is also an 80 and 90 series version of these 20 inch monitors which has a higher resolution tube (700/900 TVL) and removable input cards, as well as a pull out drawer to make adjustments. These are much closer to BVM spec.]
Despite these differences, this is not to say the 17R is a bad monitor. Not at all. The 17R, when calibrated, produces a fantastic picture. Both of these monitors have manually adjusted geometry controls. Meaning you have to take the side panels off and use a tiny screwdriver to adjust pots on the boards themselves. Geometry is adjusted on the def/power board, while video H.phase, hold and other adjustments are on the video processing board. Beware though, one thing the 17R lacks is a vertical height adjustment, unfortunately.
The bottom line? These Ikegamis make fantastic retro gaming monitors. Remember that the tubes are curved, just like the Panasonic and JVC models reviewed above, so if that's not your cup of tea, you will want to go with a Sony instead. These are 600 line tubes, the same as a late model non-HR Trinitron. The scanlines will be a lot softer than the 750-line tubes on the JVC and Panasonic monitors reviewed above. If you're looking for extremely sharp scanlines, go with a BVM. If you're looking for something that's actually easy on the eyes, this is a great choice.
Remember how I said these monitors have character? Well here's some food for thought: Using this monitor for retro games is like having an old-school TV that has a really damn good RGB picture. When we played our retro games growing up, we played them on crappy consumer TVs with low resolution tubes, because that's how they were designed to be played. Unfortunately, using RF and composite video sources just plain sucks. The Ikegami monitor is the best of both worlds. It has RGB input, a curved, old-school tube, and a TV resolution that's high--but not TOO high.
Now get this: I have a PVM-2950Q and a PGM-200R2U in my retro game room for general use. But I also have a small rolling TV cart next to my bed for personal use. What monitor do I use out of my collection? PVM-1954Q? PVM-20M2UMD? BVM-20F1U? BVM-D20F1U? BVM-D24E1WU? BVM-14F5U? PVM-14M4U? All of them shoved in my closet. Great guys, but not for daily use. The Ikegami TM20 is my personal cuddle buddy for bedtime game playing.
Pros:
Low-cost (I wouldn't pay more than $100 for a 17R and $150 for an 18R)
Great picture
Cons:
Manual adjustments (no service menu)
Curved tube (This is subjective, I personally like the curve)
18R has a non standard 7-pin professional S-video input
17R requires manual signal termination (18R has manual 75 ohm switches on the back, there is no auto termination like PVMs)
17R does not have carrying handles
Other notes:
I had an issue using crappy China-made SNES scart cables with this monitor. I think it may have been a poor grounding issue. Cables from retro console accessories and a homemade scart to BNC adapter work great.
Both of these monitors use Matsushita (Panasonic) brand 85 degree capacitors. While Matsushita brand capacitors are good, 85 degree capacitors that are approaching 18 years of age may need replacing, depending on how much use the monitor has. I replaced all of the capacitors on both monitors' deflection boards with high-quality Nichicon 105 degree capacitors, even though the picture was already good. At the very least, I can now say that the boards will outlast the tubes.
Need to do:
Test interlaced picture
Test if it can handle composite video as a sync signal (unlikely)
Upload pictures