Big Red cross hatch of death
- Thread starter wyo
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Yeah, the tape's not going to hold up. Might have to borrow the wife's hot glue gun.
I tested the rest of CM10 - all OK. Getting some weird readings from CM8 but the traces look good there and everywhere else. I tried it as is and still get the cross hatch screen on boot. I'm going to fix the rest of the traces near the battery and fire her up again.
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It's alive!
Big thanks to all those who chimed in to help!
Slots 2, 3 & 4 are now working. Slot 1 doesn't work. Not a big deal but if anyone knows how to fix it please let me know.
A few of the games don't work either. So far I've just cleaned the connectors. I'll take them apart and see if a full cleaning helps. So far I've got Spinmaster, Cyber Lip and 2020 Baseball up and running.
It was a great feeling turning it on and finally hearing the familiar intro music!
Big thanks to all those who chimed in to help!
Slots 2, 3 & 4 are now working. Slot 1 doesn't work. Not a big deal but if anyone knows how to fix it please let me know.
A few of the games don't work either. So far I've just cleaned the connectors. I'll take them apart and see if a full cleaning helps. So far I've got Spinmaster, Cyber Lip and 2020 Baseball up and running.
It was a great feeling turning it on and finally hearing the familiar intro music!
The enjoyment you get from fixing something yourself is really hard to describe 
Glad to see you have it back up and running! Even if it is still somewhat broken, but i think you will fix slot 1 too.. probably a trace missing still. Slot 1 worked before?
All the acid mess is cleaned up too right?
Glad to see you have it back up and running! Even if it is still somewhat broken, but i think you will fix slot 1 too.. probably a trace missing still. Slot 1 worked before?
All the acid mess is cleaned up too right?
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Awesome, good work!
xsq
Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
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congratulations! It's always good to see one of these come back to life and I bet you feel on top of the world now 
As to slot 1: The Multislots (especially 4 and 6) are very picky about how and what carts (Megcount) you put in there. Does the board give you garbled graphics/sound or does it go to the crosshatch when you put just 1 cart into slot 1? Try pulling it up a little or push it to the left/right, fixes connectivity issues sometimes. Also cleaning the slot with a clean piece of cloth + contact cleaner around cardboard or a credit card might be a good place to start.
As to slot 1: The Multislots (especially 4 and 6) are very picky about how and what carts (Megcount) you put in there. Does the board give you garbled graphics/sound or does it go to the crosshatch when you put just 1 cart into slot 1? Try pulling it up a little or push it to the left/right, fixes connectivity issues sometimes. Also cleaning the slot with a clean piece of cloth + contact cleaner around cardboard or a credit card might be a good place to start.
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Thanks guys!
Yes. I carefully scraped off as much as I could then cleaned the whole area.
I'll try that when I get the chance. Right now I'm just enjoying the games and I don't feel like taking it apart again
Last Resort now works after using some stove top cleaner on the contacts. What a great game!
The enjoyment you get from fixing something yourself is really hard to describe
Glad to see you have it back up and running! Even if it is still somewhat broken, but i think you will fix slot 1 too.. probably a trace missing still. Slot 1 worked before?
All the acid mess is cleaned up too right?
Yes. I carefully scraped off as much as I could then cleaned the whole area.
congratulations! It's always good to see one of these come back to life and I bet you feel on top of the world now
As to slot 1: The Multislots (especially 4 and 6) are very picky about how and what carts (Megcount) you put in there. Does the board give you garbled graphics/sound or does it go to the crosshatch when you put just 1 cart into slot 1? Try pulling it up a little or push it to the left/right, fixes connectivity issues sometimes. Also cleaning the slot with a clean piece of cloth + contact cleaner around cardboard or a credit card might be a good place to start.
I'll try that when I get the chance. Right now I'm just enjoying the games and I don't feel like taking it apart again
Last Resort now works after using some stove top cleaner on the contacts. What a great game!
xsq
Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
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what is that made off? Sounds pretty gruesome to me
Best way to clean up the connectors on your carts would be to use a pink eraser (ArtGum) and/or qtips with contact cleaner (DeOxit-D5). If you use contact cleaner you also put a protective coat on, enhance the connection and help clean the slot (insert the cart a couple of times, then whipe the cart edges down again)... it's worth having a can of D5 around, trust me.
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what is that made off? Sounds pretty gruesome to me
Weiman Glass Cook Top Cleaner
It's basically just isopropyl and detergents in a watery paste, nothing too abrasive. I use it when regular 90% isopropyl fails to work.
That said, I looked up D5 on Amazon and that looks more appropriate for this application
I'll pick some up.
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All four of those traces you circled go from the P1 connector (as you call it) to the uPA2003C. You are right - it looks like some of them go to the IC at F11 but they don't. The trace closest to the battery goes to uPA2003C pin 13; the second closest goes to pin 14; the third closest goes to pin 15; the fourth closest goes to pin 16.
So far your repairs look good to me. Post when you are done and let us know if it works
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All four of those traces you circled go from the P1 connector (as you call it) to the uPA2003C. You are right - it looks like some of them go to the IC at F11 but they don't. The trace closest to the battery goes to uPA2003C pin 13; the second closest goes to pin 14; the third closest goes to pin 15; the fourth closest goes to pin 16.
So far your repairs look good to me. Post when you are done and let us know if it works
That's interesting, but now I'm a little perplexed! I already wired it as I described, to the two chips above uPA2003C at F11 and G11, and it works. The fourth trace away from the battery actually had working continuity to a G11 pin so I didn't end up wiring it. Is it possible that pin 16 of uPA2003C is also wired to G11? The 4 traces nearest the battery appear to bypass uPA2003C entirely.
Terot
Kabuki Klasher
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Congrats on the fix! I agree that the satisfaction you get from repairing/making something yourself is amazing and I am glad you have had the chance to experience success! I have seriously though about buying non-working systems on eBay and trying to repair them but I don't necessary trust eBay sellers.
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I thought I gave you the right information, but I will double check on my MV-4 to make sure. Those traces go to the mechanical coin counters and lockout coils so it does not surprise me that it seems to work anyway.
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I double checked the traces on my MV-4 and I found the same connections I described earlier. On my board the 4 nearest traces southwest of the battery all connect to the uPA2003C at F11 and none of them connect directly to the 74LS259 at G11 (though there are connections between the uPA2003C at F11 and the 74LS259 at G11 - they just aren't shared with those traces by the battery). I am not sure how it is that you measured continuity between the 4th trace and the a pin of the IC at G11; my multimeter says there isn't a connection there. Maybe there was a miscommunication about which trace is which or something 
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I double checked the traces on my MV-4 and I found the same connections I described earlier. On my board the 4 nearest traces southwest of the battery all connect to the uPA2003C at F11 and none of them connect directly to the 74LS259 at G11 (though there are connections between the uPA2003C at F11 and the 74LS259 at G11 - they just aren't shared with those traces by the battery). I am not sure how it is that you measured continuity between the 4th trace and the a pin of the IC at G11; my multimeter says there isn't a connection there. Maybe there was a miscommunication about which trace is which or something
Thanks for checking this. I'm gonna recheck continuity using the correct pins as you describe. Maybe the traces in question are OK and my extra wiring didn't hurt anything. What's weird is I don't think I got it working until after I wired it all up. I checked after only fixing the traces on the lower right of the battery but maybe I just checked on slot 1, which is still dead. Damn it, this is bugging me now, haha. I'm just hesitant to mess with anything since it's working now.
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I double checked the traces on my MV-4 and I found the same connections I described earlier. On my board the 4 nearest traces southwest of the battery all connect to the uPA2003C at F11 and none of them connect directly to the 74LS259 at G11 (though there are connections between the uPA2003C at F11 and the 74LS259 at G11 - they just aren't shared with those traces by the battery). I am not sure how it is that you measured continuity between the 4th trace and the a pin of the IC at G11; my multimeter says there isn't a connection there. Maybe there was a miscommunication about which trace is which or something
I performed a battery mod today - added a coin slot battery holder and a CR2032 per Xian Xi's instructions in the Bad Battery Thread - and checked the wiring again. It turns out those traces were OK so I removed my incorrect wiring. Everything works great and I wanted to say thank you very much for your help!
xsq
Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
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Great to hear! This is how it should be.I performed a battery mod today - added a coin slot battery holder and a CR2032 [...] Everything works great and I wanted to say thank you very much for your help!
Just to be sure on the battery mod: You did also remove the 470ohm resistor, right?