if you don't like it here then leave.
Obviously I do, for many months at a time. This board probably has the most assholes of any I've encountered because the "bro" culture here encourages it. I'm not here for "the drama", and drama is all you're instigating right now.
Don't say shit like what you said to lemony
I get you have a crush on lemony, and I was rude to him, but he started it and grow up.
After that long and you only have 400 posts? Please, you don't do jack shit here.
Wahhh, you don't think I'm part of your community because of my quality, not quantity posting habits. All of my posts, most before your time, are only attempting to help people fix their game hardware gratis, or take down the biggest scammer, or trying to get schematics released (thereby starting NG dev). And I guess opening a design to make MVS converters or new AES carts possible without sacrificing original carts, does nothing for the community either.
Maybe I should spam 1000s of posts in the other forums, so they may be lost in the sea of posts about low culture and meme macros, because
thats what counts for "rep", right?
don't be a dick about it.
Enough harping on my retort? If you're sensitive about what you don't know, do something about it. I decided to 10 years ago.
As for the THS comment I was referring to the PPU's being different
I get that.
right off the PPU, after the transistors
After the transistors isn't right off the PPU, the transistors introduce non-linearity (distortion).
I did not realize you did not mean the sharpness as well since you used a general statement.
I meant color accuracy and consistency, but I'm sure you can a very sharp picture out of early consoles if you amplify the signal correctly.
If the 1CHIP has high frequency noise causing the signal to "ring", people may interpret this as increased sharpness (or other "enhancement"), but it's not, and it probably cannot be removed. If someone actually prefers this ringing, high frequency noise can be added to the true signal simply by turning up the display's sharpness which amplifies high frequency components.
It doesn't matter if I try something myself, I could spend hours probing a SNES and designing a circuit I'm positive is "perfect", only for you to complain the colors are wrong and you're getting some sort of noise and blame the circuit. I'm only explaining what
SHOULD work, based established electrical theory and
industry standards; I personally don't care for modded consoles and I won't mod mine just to prove the non-point that I could get mod a console with "good" results.
present it all as 100% fact without trying it
I present facts as facts, and strong opinions as strong opinions. Go back and check my wording.
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don't mean anything if you actually get your hands dirty and try them out on real hardware.
You seem like a competent modder so I'd have hoped you could understand that I can't cover every base for everyone, chips are built with large tolerances and there's nothing I can do about that. Since the colors were "too washed out" for you, the signal could need attenuation or gain, I have no idea without probing your console. Even if I was sure about the signal, the weak link could be your display, it's settings or even your cable. I'm in the dark about everyone's setup, the best I can do is recommend
industry standard circuits, assuming Nintendo did their job, your display is doing its job, and you aren't committing user error.
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Proof? Explain officially made scart cables in Japan (not for PAL) that included RGB output.
AFAIK (I don't own one and if I did I'd never pull it apart) they are passive cables and thus deliver high impedance video meant for a high impedance monitor--they're completely unsuitable for actual TV use. "JP21" video was never common in Japan, every display I've personally seen with them have been computer monitors. It seems to me the cables themselves are actually a specialty item, not for widespread consumer use obviously.
RGB output was also most likely used for advertising and reviewers.
What's your point? I didn't say nobody had the ability to use RGB under any circumstances, I said the RGB signals from the multi-out is not suitable for driving a TV and they're not, this is a fact. In Japan, just like other NTSC countries, most people view RGB signals through monitors, not TVs. I'm sure you know this.
This was a common practice with the NES to use a PPU-10 system to put on the box art, ever notice the screenshots on the super mario bros 3 box had the PPC-10 palette?
How is this relevant???
No BS on the strength of the color signals. Why would you say something so silly when different models of the SNES output at different Vp-p levels for the RGB signals?
Do you even realize the SNES used different video encoders and methods to amp the RGB throughout its revisions? You also realize the levels weren't consistent throughout the models? The SVHC models do not reach 1.7~ vp-p (as the other models do) or anywhere close, (iirc it was around 1.3~vp-p, but I didn't save my data) on the colors line outputs of the multi out.
Yes obviously the outputs have different amplitudes and offsets, that's why there are differences when you inappropriately connect them to a TV. Again that's irrelevant because
you aren't supposed to use them to drive a TV directly. That is my whole point. If they were meant to drive a TV they'd be ~0.714 Vpp into 75 ohms with 75 ohms output impedance. Japan even has electrical regulations that the SFC might violate if the outputs were directly meant for use due to the DC offset.
Proof? It's been proven otherwise by several people
What? You realize you're appealing to supposed (no offense to him) authority, Ikari_01, over some very vague premise without knowing anything about myself, or I suspect, him. Do you think he'd approve you pitting his supposed word (what exactly?) against someone else? You have a scope so hopefully you aren't a complete moron, take a step back and reread what I wrote and if you aren't familiar with video signals, get familiar before arguing about them.
Plus not that it means anything I actually have done independent reverse engineering of SNES hardware and am somewhat familiar with it, despite it not being one of my main focuses or something I'm "known for" like Ikari_01 is. Since you seem to doubt my "authority" (I myself claim none) go check my posts at NESdev, the handle is the same.
Sorry but you're not making sense to me, you keep saying "who cares?" about the 1Chip being sharper and it's not 'natural' of a SNES
If the 1CHIP has uncorrectable
noise, then so be it, it's not correctable, and I don't know because I don't have a 1CHIP. Something I do know is that the
color accuracy between the revisions (exhibited here in the thread) can easily be made consistent by properly biasing, attenuating and amplifying the signals, of course unless the bit weighting was changed in the 1CHIP's DACs (which again I don't know, and if they are, it certainly isn't a feature IMO). It doesn't
look that way from the pictures people post
IMO because
every picture in this thread could be explained by poor transmission of the signal to the TV.
For example the prior talk about "ghosting", ie signal reflections, is unquestionably due to poor transmission and not innate to the PPU. If one correctly impedance matched the line, the signal can't reflect to form a ghost...
you constantly keep clinging to hope that a SVHC can achieve the same sharpness
The hope? Either the 1CHIP has significantly higher bandwidth (doubtful) which wouldn't even be visible, the 1CHIP's signal is ringing, or it has stronger transistors to drive post DAC capacitance that limit the bandwidth of "SHVC" models. All are pretty irrelevant because if you stick a high impedance, low capacitance amplifier on a discrete PPU you will get an adequately sharp picture, there is plenty of evidence of this all over the web, and that's the result people get without even driving their TVs correctly. Sharpness is not lacking for most, color accuracy is. It's really hard to swallow that the early DAC's are flat out "blurry" as claimed because they aren't, I can even make out pixel edges through composite! The SNES has really low-bandwidth video, amongst the lowest 240p, so it doesn't take much to get "razor sharp" pixels.
I just don't understand the point you're making.
Nor I yours.
I'm not saying your opinion is wrong or saying one SNES is better than the other, I'm just laying out information for everyone. But you're flip flopping on everything you say. Just saying.
Please use examples. Just saying.
