RGB / SCART to YUV / Component - pot / knob / resistor / screw adjustment & troubleshootin

RGB / SCART to YUV / Component - pot / knob / resistor / screw adjustment & troubleshootin

I just picked up one of those RGB to component boxes and it's pretty neat. Mine is the cys 2100 / cvs 287 clones (the one with the yellow knobs / resistors inside) and I was wondering if anyone has any documentation or knowledge of what each specific resistor does?

As with most folks, I had to open mine up and twiddle the screws before it looked right. Mine had a slight (but definite) green tint to it. It looks really good now, but I was wondering if one of those unknown knobs might help me improve it even more.

The problem I'm having is a small one, but one I wouldn't mind fixing. There's a slight bend sometimes at the top couple inches of the screen (just where the score is but no further...doesn't touch life bars or counters) that leans to the right and sometimes leaves a tiny gap at the top left of the picture. I don't really notice while playing but I'm big on tweaking so I figured I'd try to figure it out anyway.

Another issue I'm having is screen rolling during bright flashes. I know this would normally require a mod to fix, but I'm hoping one of the knobs is the magic flashy thingy fixer?

Lastly, unrelated (or not directly related) to the converter, I've been having issues with interference over component video with both my PC and Neo Geo. It's three or so wide horizontal bands, present only above the top half of the screen (as far as I can tell). You can really only see the static on really dark/black screens, but again I'd like to fix it.

Does this interference sound familiar to anyone? I know often describing the pattern helps more experienced folks identify what the issue is.

Thanks a bunch for reading!

P.S. My TV is a Panasonic Viera 50U50 plasma, so any of you Viera owners thinking about getting the converter, I haven't heard a single story of a 2012 model (or any model really) not displaying 240p video. I can't wait to hook this box up to one of my old CRTs though.

I haven't tried your particular adapter. but do you have Photos on the insides?
Maybe I or someone else would notice something you didn't.

Dark Sakul said:

I haven't tried your particular adapter. but do you have Photos on the insides?
Maybe I or someone else would notice something you didn't.

Click to expand...

This isn't my photo, but this is the box:

The image is not coming up for me.

I am assuming its this device here
http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:csy-2100

What I would do is to follow the sync pin from the scart, it should go to any pot.

from what you posted, the quality is clearly lower the neobitz, right?

Screen rolling during bright flashes is a AC coupling problem. If you have a non 3-5 or 3-6 AES, you will need to update the caps and resistors for the AV socket. SNK used 100uf and 68ohm resistors and they need to be 470uf and 75ohm.

Oh and the interference is from the power supply for the converter.

distropia said:

What I would do is to follow the sync pin from the scart, it should go to any pot.

from what you posted, the quality is clearly lower the neobitz, right?

Click to expand...

The build quality feels cheaper but the picture quality is much better than a neobitz once both the display and the encoder are properly configured and calibrated. I personally prefer these over the JROK and Neobitz.

The problem you are experiencing sounds like a sync issue. I've seen it on a couple CRT's when using mine and I could not get it resolved on them, even with toying with the pots. The issue with the CVS287 is some TV's just don't like to sync with it or have odd issues like what you are describing.

*edit* I was posting while Xian Xi was and did not see his post. What he said reminded me, dont use the stock psu. I found it best to remove the power regulator and use a standard 5v PSU like you would on a CMVS.

Dark Sakul said:

The image is not coming up for me.

I am assuming its this device here
http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:csy-2100

Click to expand...

Here's a pic of mine:

Xian Xi said:

Screen rolling during bright flashes is a AC coupling problem. If you have a non 3-5 or 3-6 AES, you will need to update the caps and resistors for the AV socket. SNK used 100uf and 68ohm resistors and they need to be 470uf and 75ohm.

Oh and the interference is from the power supply for the converter.

Click to expand...

The interference was present before I got the converter, unless you mean the bendy line at the top. How hard is the AC mod in light of my questionable soldering skills?

Skips said:

The build quality feels cheaper but the picture quality is much better than a neobitz once both the display and the encoder are properly configured and calibrated. I personally prefer these over the JROK and Neobitz.

The problem you are experiencing sounds like a sync issue. I've seen it on a couple CRT's when using mine and I could not get it resolved on them, even with toying with the pots. The issue with the CVS287 is some TV's just don't like to sync with it or have odd issues like what you are describing.

*edit* I was posting while Xian Xi was and did not see his post. What he said reminded me, dont use the stock psu. I found it best to remove the power regulator and use a standard 5v PSU like you would on a CMVS.

Click to expand...

I don't quite follow about the PSU, could you explain a little more? About the pots, do you know what the others do?

Thanks for all the help and info everybody.

The power supply is the power adapter that came with it. The stock one is garbage. I recommend buying a higher quality one or remove the power regulator and use a simple 5volt one. I usually have 5 volt PSU's lying around so I usually do the later. As for the pots I can't remember which one does what. It has been awhile since i configured my last one. Unless someone else knows your best bet is to play with it until it looks good on your display.

Skips said:

The power supply is the power adapter that came with it. The stock one is garbage. I recommend buying a higher quality one or remove the power regulator and use a simple 5volt one. I usually have 5 volt PSU's lying around so I usually do the later. As for the pots I can't remember which one does what. It has been awhile since i configured my last one. Unless someone else knows your best bet is to play with it until it looks good on your display.

Click to expand...

What's the power regulator? I know what PSU is, but are you saying to use a PC power supply rather than an AC adapter? I guess I'm not getting it.

I determined that it's the 1st and 3rd knob on the top row (from the left) that adjust color and tint, but I messed with all the rest and didn't see any certain change. I also made a video so you guys could see the bendy effect. It shows more in some games than others (Ninja Masters bends a little but there's no gap in the top left corner). Also, the component interference is 4 thick bands on the top half of the screen, and a few thin bands toward the bottom.

(the rolling you see is only present in the video, not when you're looking at it in person)

EDIT: Good news everyone!

Taking a tip from this Thread, I tried unplugging the Neo audio cable (old soundblaster cable plugged into headphone jack) from my receiver, and that fixed the problem (ground loop?). Now I have a new problem....no sound from my Neo. Any idea how to fix that??

Seriously though, suggestions? On the bright side, the picture looks beautiful

What revision is your Neo? Might need some new caps or just caps in general if it's the revisions that don't have any caps.

Xian Xi said:

What revision is your Neo? Might need some new caps or just caps in general if it's the revisions that don't have any caps.

Click to expand...

It's in the 27,000s. I remember the guy from Starland saying it has a daughter board. Here's a pic of the cart slot:




Any ideas on the ground loop humbar thing?


Edit 2: Nevermind!







Whilst digging around behind my receiver (I'd plugged my Neo into the front inputs as a temporary test) I found that beautiful thing. I hooked my Neo up to my AV switcher (which is routed through the ground loop isolator) and the screen was perfectly clear. Apparently I've solved this problem before but forgot how!

Now I just have to figure out the bendy issue and I'll be all set. LOL

It's either a 1st gen or 1st revision. Either way, the 100uf caps and 68ohm resistors need to be swapped out. That daughterboard in the pic is actually a Neo-Power board that converts a previously 9v-13v system to a 5v system.

Xian Xi said:

That daughterboard in the pic is actually a Neo-Power board that converts a previously 9v-13v system to a 5v system.

Click to expand...

Hm, isn't it the other way around?

ApolloBoy said:

Hm, isn't it the other way around?

Click to expand...

Ya it is. When I took a second look at the picture it is the normal daughterboard for the upgraded clock timing. I just didn't edit the info since most people never heard of the Neo power board before.

Xian Xi said:

It's either a 1st gen or 1st revision. Either way, the 100uf caps and 68ohm resistors need to be swapped out.

Click to expand...

Yeah, it must be this, cos I got my Genesis scart cable and the image looks pristine. The top of the screen doesn't even twitch. Exactly how many resistors & caps, if you recall? Is this a straight swap for the same parts but new? Is it a particularly tricky or cramped spot to work? I'll most likely just live with it if it's not dead easy. If I wrecked my Neo, I'd punch myself in the balls til I passed out.

It's a lot of space if you use 470uf caps at 10v or 6.3v, 16v will be a bit fat and not fit as well as the others.

You would need 5 of each.

Xian Xi said:

It's a lot of space if you use 470uf caps at 10v or 6.3v, 16v will be a bit fat and not fit as well as the others.

You would need 5 of each.

Click to expand...

I assume that quality control is a factor for caps, since they're known to go bad and need replacing? Any of these cheap ones suitable?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...70uf+.TRS0&_nkw=470uf+6.3v&_sacat=0&_from=R40

I already have a bunch of 75ohm 1/4 resistors I got for possible scart projects. I assume those would work ok?

Also, I have a dead Samsung monitor that probably needs new caps, so I was thinking about maybe trying to replace those for practice before trying to take on teh champ. Is braid enough or do I need a sucker?

If you need the caps and resistors just shoot me a PM and I can supply you some for very little $.

I just wanted to share my findings so far on the adjustment knobs, as I've done a fair bit of testing:

The controls are (by knob number):
1: Yellow/blue balance
3: Red/green balance
4:Red/yellow balance (very subtle)
6: Color intensity
(I'm sure there are ways to describe them that are more technically accurate, but this beats any description I've seen so far, especially since the common perception seems to be that only 2 knobs do anything)


I also made a youtube video to walk the nervous and uninitiated through the process, during which I make some discoveries. It's always funny when you start off making a video when you're not positive you know what you're talking about.

(Fixed bad video link....I disabled embedding because all of my self-corrections are in annotation form)

Hopefully it'll come in handy for people who're googling the subject and find this thread.

Xian Xi said:

If you need the caps and resistors just shoot me a PM and I can supply you some for very little $.

Click to expand...

Thanks! I definitely might take you up on that offer, but I wanted to ask... I know that ideally, the way to fix the screen rolling issue is to mod the Neo.....but isn't there way to counteract the problem by modding the SCART cable instead? I'm a lot more confortable with that idea.

If it can be done, how would I do it? I've heard some people say caps/resistors on the RGB, and I've heard other people say caps/resistors on the sync. If you were going to try it, what would you do?

If anybody tried to watch this earlier (and apparently somebody did, cos the views went from 19 to 60-something) it's fixed now. I had to copy it to a new video and delete the bad one.

You should really be adjusting them with color bars. That way you can adjust the balance and strength.

Xian Xi said:

Oh and the interference is from the power supply for the converter.

Click to expand...

Here we go again.

After many years of people telling me this same thing I dig everything I could about the interference on RGB to YUV converters.
It's called bounce effect not actually interference.

Many people don't use actual 75 ohm component video cables, because they are expensive, this causes a ms delay on each color causing the bounce.

Another effect that could be taken as interference is the lack of resistors on R G B line. This causes the converter to over saturate the color causing, again, the bounce effect.

Xian Xi said:

You should really be adjusting them with color bars. That way you can adjust the balance and strength.

Click to expand...

Agreed. I'll get around to that, once I get the 240p Test Suite up and running on my Sega CD. I guess I could do it with my PS2 and my Avia disc too, but I'd rather do it on a system I'll actually use.... It still looks insanely awesome, just from eyeballing it. Properly calibrating it is a must though. I just wanted to show the basics for the average person to start with.

Any thoughts on my question about the Neo issue?

Fandangos said:

Here we go again.

After many years of people telling me this same thing I dig everything I could about the interference on RGB to YUV converters.
It's called bounce effect not actually interference.

Many people don't use actual 75 ohm component video cables, because they are expensive, this causes a ms delay on each color causing the bounce.

Another effect that could be taken as interference is the lack of resistors on R G B line. This causes the converter to over saturate the color causing, again, the bounce effect.

Click to expand...

I do have a genuine ground loop problem (rolling hum bars that show up on camera), but there's definitely nothing wrong with the converter's power supply. The Genesis looks pretty much flawless except for certain black screens that look kinda staticy (partly because the scanline generator brightens those screens somewhat, for some reason), but I think that's attributable to the ground loop as well. You can see the bars here:


I do know there are no resistors on my Neo cables (except possibly the one required for scart AV switching) because I wrote the guy who made it and asked him. The interference is mild, and I'll solve it eventually. The Neo rolling on bright screens is what I hope to fix with a cable mod, and my Neo's pretty much always had that problem.

Also, what's a 75ohm component cable? Do they sell those @ Monoprice? I'm guessing I'm already using the best of everything, cable wise (short of Monster levels of retardation).

Fandangos said:

Here we go again.

After many years of people telling me this same thing I dig everything I could about the interference on RGB to YUV converters.
It's called bounce effect not actually interference.

Many people don't use actual 75 ohm component video cables, because they are expensive, this causes a ms delay on each color causing the bounce.

Another effect that could be taken as interference is the lack of resistors on R G B line. This causes the converter to over saturate the color causing, again, the bounce effect.

Click to expand...

I've fixed one of these personally by bypassing the need for the PSU and running the power straight from the AES and the problem was instantly gone. For another customer I just sold them a better power supply and the problem went away so say what you want.