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Pasky

Fug:DDDDD,
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As far as American Happ joysticks, incorrect. They come completely assembled, balltop not remove able, with an indent in the mounting plate itself for the built-in washers. Japanese sticks etc the washer goes on top.

Wut? My Happ stick isn't like that at all.

g1iXoGC.jpg


Yes that's really one of my arcade sticks and that's a legit HAPP.

Spoiler:

ksPUR9w.jpg


7kYVDAz.jpg
 
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ResO

water damaged
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Wut? My Happ stick isn't like that at all.

g1iXoGC.jpg


Yes that's really one of my arcade sticks and that's a legit HAPP.

Spoiler:

ksPUR9w.jpg


7kYVDAz.jpg

Hilarious stick. Here's a stock stick from an MVS cab built in 1992:
hFRVy4b.jpg
 

Pasky

Fug:DDDDD,
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Thanks, made the art myself for the lulz.

Also wow, what's the underside like?
 

BanishingFlatsAC

formerly DZ
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Those are Happ Supers...they come apart. You slide out the E clip and the shaft and actuator slide out. Those are also not the original sticks for the MVS cab, as the supers that came on the cab had a chrome shaft.

*Edit* Ultimate...not supers. My fault.
 
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ResO

water damaged
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Those are Happ Supers...they come apart. You slide out the E clip and the shaft and actuator slide out. Those are also not the original sticks for the MVS cab, as the supers that came on the cab had a chrome shaft.

*Edit* Ultimate...not supers. My fault.

Very educational! These are the original sticks that came from my low mileage cab back in the 90s and my buddy's big red also had these same "Ultimate" sticks. Thanks for teaching me something.
 
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BanishingFlatsAC

formerly DZ
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Very educational! These are the original sticks that came from my low mileage cab back in the 90s and my buddy's big red also had these same "Ultimate" sticks. Thanks for teaching me something.

Back in the day when EG and I were restoring our big reds, we went crazy trying to find replacements for the chrome sticks, as the ones on both of our cabs were rusted to shit. He just used the all black supers in his and I ended up going with JLW Sanwa sticks. Those were drop in replacements and you could putall normal japanese bat and ball tops. She they got discontinued, as those sticks were the balls.
 

ResO

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Back in the day when EG and I were restoring our big reds, we went crazy trying to find replacements for the chrome sticks, as the ones on both of our cabs were rusted to shit. He just used the all black supers in his and I ended up going with JLW Sanwa sticks. Those were drop in replacements and you could putall normal japanese bat and ball tops. She they got discontinued, as those sticks were the balls.

At least here in the US the only MVS cabs I've seen in flyers and in person with the metal shaft was the wideboy 6-slots. Everything else had black shafts. I just searched HARDMVS pics and it confirms my memories. :scratch:

http://www.hardmvs.com/xml/usa/usCabs.htm
 

BanishingFlatsAC

formerly DZ
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Here's a four slot with them
14005501.jpg

And a 1 slot
2fbf10214b4482a58b509c6e9a6c9ced.jpg

Also the very first picture on that hardmvs page is a single slot machine with chrome shafts...lol.
 
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ResO

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Interesting variety.

I need to find some bigger washers, just went for some JLFs modded with cherry microswitches and octogonal restrictor gates. The JLWs are those taller balltops, right? I like the small JLF, just used to them.

YUJTZO2.jpg
 
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BanishingFlatsAC

formerly DZ
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Interesting variety.

I need to find some bigger washers, just went for some JLFs modded with cherry microswitches and octogonal restrictor gates. The JLWs are those taller balltops, right? I like the small JLF, just used to them.

YUJTZO2.jpg

JLWs have a longer shaft and a US bolt pattern. They were ment for wooden US panels. If you're using them on a metal panel I'd recommend using some nylon spacers on the bolts to adjust the stock height.
 

ResO

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JLWs have a longer shaft and a US bolt pattern. They were ment for wooden US panels. If you're using them on a metal panel I'd recommend using some nylon spacers on the bolts to adjust the stock height.

That's pretty cool. I just switched the JLF mount for a universal mount. Probably would have been easier to go the JLW spacer route, but whatevs.

Can anyone recommend a screw-in Japanese button type that would fit big red mounting holes? I like the feel of Happ convex competitions more than concave and enjoy the clicks of microswitches, but they still don't have that nice wide-faced button japanese feel. I know there were some "clicky" japanese style buttons made, but heard they were built poorly?
 

BanishingFlatsAC

formerly DZ
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That's pretty cool. I just switched the JLF mount for a universal mount. Probably would have been easier to go the JLW spacer route, but whatevs.

Can anyone recommend a screw-in Japanese button type that would fit big red mounting holes? I like the feel of Happ convex competitions more than concave and enjoy the clicks of microswitches, but they still don't have that nice wide-faced button japanese feel. I know there were some "clicky" japanese style buttons made, but heard they were built poorly?

Screw ins will fit, but you have to sand off all the threading except for the last two or three threads. You then need to force them in by covering then in a cloth and lightly tapping them with a rubber mallet. Take it from me, just stick with competition buttons and zippy microswitches.
 

bloodycelt

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I wish I had the space for a cab, restoring one looks like a lot of fun.

DZ, ResO... what about using a 3D printer for those buttons ?

(I admit, I'm tossing that idea out as a shot in the dark... I imagine there's more involved... but figured on the off chance its a good idea, might was well mention it)
 

lolifoxgirl

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There is no real need to 3d print buttons for a big red cp as it takes standard 30mm buttons with 0 problems.
 

BanishingFlatsAC

formerly DZ
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There is no real need to 3d print buttons for a big red cp as it takes standard 30mm buttons with 0 problems.

Big reds do not accept 30mm Japanese buttons without either dremeling the holes or doing as I described above. 3D printing buttons is redundant, because there is no need to put Japanese buttons on a US cab.
 

ResO

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Oops you were right. These buttons are the american size. They are candy style at least.

https://www.focusattack.com/il-psl-cv-convex-short-stem-pushbutton-red/

Yeah, those are iL/Happ Competition buttons. What I'm using now. :)
Unfortunately they're not the same quality plastic that they used to be, at least not the Happ-Suzo branded ones. I've had my buttons for a very short period of time and the buttons on the 2p side are scratched to sh*t from my longer fingernails. My 18 year old concave Happ buttons still feel glossy and smooth. I've never had short fingernails on my right hand anyway because I'm a fingerpicking guitar player, so it's definitely the new plastic formula. Thus, I'm on hunt for different buttons.

As for DZ's opinion on not needing Japanese buttons on an Anerican cab, well I don't own any candies ATM so my big red is my main player and I prefer Japanese sticks/buttons as a personal preference. It's not like I'm throwing the original buttons/sticks away, they're in ziplock baggies stored in the coin return bin. :)
 

jbeedham

yeah he did that, ,
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I have been searching for the perfect stool for my Blast City for a long time. Yesterday, I finally found it!


I wonder if the seats they use for slot machines out here would work. I don't own one of those cabs but if you give me the height I could do some checking.
 

BanishingFlatsAC

formerly DZ
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Yeah, those are iL/Happ Competition buttons. What I'm using now. :)
Unfortunately they're not the same quality plastic that they used to be, at least not the Happ-Suzo branded ones. I've had my buttons for a very short period of time and the buttons on the 2p side are scratched to sh*t from my longer fingernails. My 18 year old concave Happ buttons still feel glossy and smooth. I've never had short fingernails on my right hand anyway because I'm a fingerpicking guitar player, so it's definitely the new plastic formula. Thus, I'm on hunt for different buttons.

As for DZ's opinion on not needing Japanese buttons on an Anerican cab, well I don't own any candies ATM so my big red is my main player and I prefer Japanese sticks/buttons as a personal preference. It's not like I'm throwing the original buttons/sticks away, they're in ziplock baggies stored in the coin return bin. :)

Happ and IL broke away. You can get IL buttons and Eurosticks and those are identical to the old competition buttons and sticks. If you read my previous comments, try putting in some different microswitches in the buttons. I like zippy switches because they require less of a button press and they don't click loud.
 

ResO

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Happ and IL broke away. You can get IL buttons and Eurosticks and those are identical to the old competition buttons and sticks. If you read my previous comments, try putting in some different microswitches in the buttons. I like zippy switches because they require less of a button press and they don't click loud.

I don't mind the click, I always thought Cherry was the golden standard and brands like Zippy were just knock-offs. I'll have to look into that.

As for iL branded buttons, getting a lot harder to find. Most sites selling them picture the iL, logo and everything, but ship you the new Happ-Suzo ones. I don't believe they actually still manufacture the iL buttons anymore, just NOS. :(
 

BanishingFlatsAC

formerly DZ
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I don't mind the click, I always thought Cherry was the golden standard and brands like Zippy were just knock-offs. I'll have to look into that.

As for iL branded buttons, getting a lot harder to find. Most sites selling them picture the iL, logo and everything, but ship you the new Happ-Suzo ones. I don't believe they actually still manufacture the iL buttons anymore, just NOS. :(

The two most popular places for arcade parts, Paradise Arcade and Focus Attack, have the IL buttons...in stock and between $2-$3 a piece. They are not "hard to find".
 
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