Neo Geo AES video output mod

joe8

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Neo Geo AES video output mod

hello guys!!!
i have both AES and MVS systems and i see how much better rgb output quality the MVS has,this is what i want to know,
its possible to mod the AES video output to gain same or near quality than MVS?? i saw some models on ebay via component,but you guys have tested anyone???
cheers!
Click to expand...
It's possible to modify the AES to get the same quality RGB output as an MVS. But you will lose the composite output capability.
How old is your AES? What is its serial no.? The older AES's had better RGB, so the mod is more of a thing you'd do with newer AES's. I have an older AES (serial no. 60xxx) and I just use an RGB SCART cable and an RGB SCART->yuv(component) converter. The result is very good, but slightly worse than the MVS. Plus of course it would be better if I used a CRT monitor with RGB inputs, rather than component inputs.
 
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No reason to lose the composite video at all.

The older consoles DO NOT have better RGB output at all. Later consoles used the correct parts and had better brighter RGB output.

Go back and read the last few posts again, then look at the pictures Vasilas posted after updating his older machine to newer specs.
 
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Does this look inferior to an MVS or early model AES to you?



NEO-GEO man said:
Close up of an unmodded 3-5 AES, RGB output, EM focus CRT... Ill let you guess what brand...

SamuraiShodown1_zpseef54a8d.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Xian Xi

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NEO-GEO man said:
No reason to lose the composite video at all.

The older consoles DO NOT have better RGB output at all. Later consoles used the correct parts and had better brighter RGB output.

Go back and read the last few posts again, then look at the pictures Vasilas posted after updating his older machine to newer specs.
Click to expand...

I think people are still referring to that old article about Neo Geo RGB quality. The only reason why they said the newer consoles had poor RGB was due to small things like the extra traces on the 3-6 that ran under the clock and displayed it as vertical lines in the picture. Easily remedied by cutting the 3 extra traces. 3-5 has a checkerboard problem that is NOT present on all 3-5 units. It only happens on a handful of 3-5 units, fixed with an RGB bypass.

1st gen has dim output but with a simple cap/resistor fix it's nice and bright. To me the worst RGB is on a 3-3, the output is low compared to any other revision.
 
vasilas432

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Xian Xi said:
I think people are still referring to that old article about Neo Geo RGB quality. The only reason why they said the newer consoles had poor RGB was due to small things like the extra traces on the 3-6 that ran under the clock and displayed it as vertical lines in the picture. Easily remedied by cutting the 3 extra traces. 3-5 has a checkerboard problem that is NOT present on all 3-5 units. It only happens on a handful of 3-5 units, fixed with an RGB bypass.

1st gen has dim output but with a simple cap/resistor fix it's nice and bright. To me the worst RGB is on a 3-3, the output is low compared to any other revision.
Click to expand...
Why?
Don't I have a good picture after the caps and resistors replacement?
 
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Xian, agreed on all counts yes. I havent personally seen the 3-5 issue with my own eyes, as you can see in my picture though, image is bright and razor sharp. I cant remember now if my mate's AES is a 3-3 or 3-4...

Vasilas, yours is now perfect due to those parts you replaced. What Xian Xi is refering to is an unmoddified console.

Bottom line is every AES is capable of the same output when the correct parts are used.
 
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Yes, there are a few anomalies in that.

The method used to show the differences is a bit of a joke too.
 
hokuto29

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received my AES yesterday,wow!! looks like x3 better,no more interference lines and now more brighter!!!

distropia(user that did the mod) told me that my console had very bad picture quality,mine is high serial and looked horrible

in comparision with my CMVS. so cool now!!! and unibios installed too :buttrock:
 
hokuto29

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hello,mine is 230575 serial so i suppose has the last revision,i use RGB video output(same tv and same cable for my CMVS),

another friend of me has the same problem with his japanese AES,interference lines,distropia told me cause the video circuit was close to electric ones and that

was the cause of the interferences. im not a technical expert in electronics,i really know about picture quality because im professional photographer.

picture quality is super different depending on your tv type,cable you use and as i said maybe in old tvs(tube ones or arcade monitor) its hard to see the differences,i use a 40" led tv,high picture quality so

you can see eveything with extreme detail.
 
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Have a look at my picture above, its on a very high resolution CRT display, capable of up to 2500x2000. Take my word for it, itll show up problems even better than any digital ;)

If you had interference it was probably a 3-6, the tracks under the XTAL were the only mod i did on mine, the 3-5 pictured above is bone stock.
 
Xian Xi

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NEO-GEO man said:
Have a look at my picture above, its on a very high resolution CRT display, capable of up to 2500x2000. Take my word for it, itll show up problems even better than any digital ;)

If you had interference it was probably a 3-6, the tracks under the XTAL were the only mod i did on mine, the 3-5 pictured above is bone stock.
Click to expand...

A handful of 3-5s will suffer from a checkerboard pattern, it is still unknown as to what causes it since it only happens on a small amount of 3-5 units.
 
Katsujinken

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Mine with a serial number just below 29 000 has some slightly darker horizontal bars that cycle vertically through the screen, um.. think when you see a TV on TV that's kinda how it looks. Would this mod correct that as well?
 
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Probably not, but you should change out those few caps and resistors to the correct value anyway. You really need to work on the revision number and not the serial number.

Are you getting these bars using RGB?
 
Katsujinken

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NEO-GEO man said:
Probably not, but you should change out those few caps and resistors to the correct value anyway. You really need to work on the revision number and not the serial number.

Are you getting these bars using RGB?
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Yes the standard composite cables that came with it. Two outputs, one video & the other mono audio. Also the audio creates a loud buzzing that sounds like a grounding or shielding issue even through the headphone jack though greatly reduced there. Faulty caps are causing both these problems then?
 
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Thats not RGB, that is composite.

There is a bad connection in there somewhere at a guess, and possibly the 1000uF 16v capacitor may need replacing.

Do the bars go up or down?
 
Katsujinken

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Yes they do, best description I could think of was when watching a TV of computer monitor on TV because the recording is picking up the refresh rate or something and they have bars which move like that. Anyway, would this be a relatively easy fix that anyone who's good with electronics repair could do then?
 
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I mean which way do they go?

Easy to fix if it is what i suggested, but i dont know if it will be that or not. Youre getting some AC interference of some sort on there so you need to find what can affect both audio and visual. A bad negative connection on the cable or the 8 pin DIN socket would also be a good place to look, followed by any filter cap.
 
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That shouldnt matter, ive only ever used an SNK genuine supply once....

Unless youre edging towards the capacitor/s in the rectifier being buggered causing a ripple in the DC? That 1000uF cap should take care of it anyway, been too long since i looked at one to see where it is in the circuit....
 
Xian Xi

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NEO-GEO man said:
That shouldnt matter, ive only ever used an SNK genuine supply once....

Unless youre edging towards the capacitor/s in the rectifier being buggered causing a ripple in the DC? That 1000uF cap should take care of it anyway, been too long since i looked at one to see where it is in the circuit....
Click to expand...

I've seen it too many times to say it shouldn't matter. The cheap chinese ones can cause all kinds of interference on screen. I've had one that made a ghosting effect. Unless the bars he's talking about is the chroma wave.
 
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If the power supply is the cause then its not got enough capacitance on the DC output, causing a ripple. Look at the wave form on a CRO and see if these ones you refer to have a reasonably smooth line or have a humpy half sine wave. I can tell you with relative certainty that any decent power supply will do the job, there is nothing special about the SNK unit. They never even came with an SNK supply when sold new here.
 
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