I'm slowly realizing that this TV is just crap and there's no reason to keep trying to fix it. However there's a Sony Trinitron KV-27FS13 available locally. Is this a good model?
Yes, I think I have one and component looks fine...but I don't chase those dragons any more...
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...t-Purchases!&p=4358872&viewfull=1#post4358872
I think it's the tate'd one...
There's a good chance it needs caps that will cause geometry problems that can't be corrected in the service menu. Lolifox and I both have this issue with ours, but I just deal with it since I'm not recapping it and nobody local does CRT repair.They want $65, but people have told me that's a bit high. I'm going to see if they'll come down to $40 or so. If not, I may go for it anyway.
Any known issues with this model? Anything that can't be corrected easily with the service menu?
There's a good chance it needs caps that will cause geometry problems that can't be corrected in the service menu. Lolifox and I both have this issue with ours, but I just deal with it since I'm not recapping it and nobody local does CRT repair.
So are the earlier black ones less likely to have cap issues? Any particular model I should look for?
The argument about the older black Trinitrons, and the newer silver ones, pretty much comes down to how the old ones have a curved screen (which many people prefer, and I don't know why - I highly prefer flat) and only composite and/or S-Video inputs; the silver ones can have flat screens and composite/S-Video AND Component (which is pretty much equal to RGB, and you can pickup a Shinybow SB-2840 RGB to Component converter and play all your RGB systems with great clarity).
Maybe, but the life expectancy of capacitors are only about 20 years anyway, and most of the black ones I've seen in person have so many hours on them that they are blurry as hell.So are the earlier black ones less likely to have cap issues? Any particular model I should look for?
In the regular menu there is a setting called "cleanedge VM" or something like that. It's on by default, turn it OFF. It's artificial sharpening and it's horrid for videogames. Leave it off and adjust sharpness with the regular setting.
I didn't have to on my Sony set but the setting is in there I think. I remember when I had the old Samsung I had to turn red down quite a bit. My only issue really was that the screen image was tilted (you can change this in the regular menu) and the regular geometry issues. Color is fantastic. I adjusted the geometry the best I could and it's pretty decent but if you play a letterboxed movie you can see that there's some bowing, and that's the caps that need to be replaced and you can't make adjustments to compensate enough.
The idea that geometry distortions are ironed out by replacing electrolytic capacitors here and there is as untrue as it is popular in retrogaming communities (that consist largely of people that don't understand much about CRT operation). If anything the caps that in some cases may be held responsible for certain types of distortions (e.g. horizontal linearity) are the film caps in the line output stage. Most other issues that can't be solved by specific geometry adjustments have to do with the deflection yoke (e.g. vertical center).
https://elektrotanya.com/sony_crt-01_crt_troubleshooting_training_manual.pdf/download.html
. Yodd made a thread on here a few years back that was really detailed.
The idea that geometry distortions are ironed out by replacing electrolytic capacitors here and there is as untrue as it is popular in retrogaming communities (that consist largely of people that don't understand much about CRT operation). If anything the caps that in some cases may be held responsible for certain types of distortions (e.g. horizontal linearity) are the film caps in the line output stage. Most other issues that can't be solved by specific geometry adjustments have to do with the deflection yoke (e.g. vertical center).
https://elektrotanya.com/sony_crt-01_crt_troubleshooting_training_manual.pdf/download.html