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Thread: CRT Fetish Thread

  1. #7201
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tempest View Post
    So if I need a magnet, how strong does it have to be? If you search ebay for round magnets all I see are those rare earth magnets which are super strong and would probably damage the tube.
    When you find them, tell us how the magnets work.
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    How is he supposed to explain magic?

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    Quote Originally Posted by FilthyRear View Post
    When you find them, tell us how the magnets work.
    Bah I was going to make a "How do they work?" joke but you beat me to it.


    Anyway would something like this work? Cheap enough to give it a try I suppose. I imagine they don't have to be super strong anything.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/MASTER-M...6254/203613123

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tempest View Post
    Bah I was going to make a "How do they work?" joke but you beat me to it.


    Anyway would something like this work? Cheap enough to give it a try I suppose. I imagine they don't have to be super strong anything.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/MASTER-M...6254/203613123
    For $2 I'm not sure you should be asking questions! just buy them and find out...

  5. #7205
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    I'm skeptical that magnets will help this - it's all along the entire side(s) - try it though, they're cheap enough.

    The only use of magnets I've found is for when you have color purity problems (like a pretty common red splotch on one of the edges which shouldn't be there). Then a strong (and small) neodymium magnet (found on Amazon and the like - I have a bunch of 8mm? x 2mm? ones I use) can do wonders when placed near that area (if degaussing and yoke adjustment won't work beforehand – which is the proper way to fix this most times).
    Last edited by Dochartaigh; 10-09-2018 at 06:43 PM.

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    Another day, another craigslist idiot. Saw a PVM OEV 203 for $375 and the guy won't show any pictures of it working. I then stated best of luck selling above ebay price with one picture of it off and got told to suck some lockjaw lol.

    Shit was listed 6 months ago and never sold.

    One of these days I'll get a pvmeme.
    Last edited by ChuChu Flamingo; 10-09-2018 at 08:10 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuChu Flamingo View Post
    Another day, another craigslist idiot. Saw a PVM OEV 203 for $375 and the guy won't show any pictures of it working. I then stated best of luck selling above ebay price with one picture of it off and got told to suck some lockjaw lol.

    Shit was listed 6 months ago and never sold.

    One of these days I'll get a pvmeme.
    My 2 star 20M4U's just hit their last legs. It's a sad day in this house.

  8. #7208
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    Quote Originally Posted by skate323k137 View Post
    My 2 star 20M4U's just hit their last legs. It's a sad day in this house.
    What happened with them?

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    Just aging. In the middle of the move and no time for service manuals.

    With hope I can make one good one. We shall see. Else it's legit groovy mame or XRGB2 time... not a backup plan I want to invoke but certainly an acceptable one.

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    I was going to try those magnets I got today, but I decided against it. As I approached the yoke with the magnet I could feel the magnet and my hand get a little tingle and that freaked me out a bit (is that normal?) so I backed off before I ever put one on the yoke itself. As I approached with the magnet the only change I saw was the red on the test pattern turned orange, but as I didn't actually put the magnet on the yoke this might mean nothing. Still, I'm kind of afraid to try it now. Anyone else have experience with this?

    I did change the vertical size to somewhat match the overscan on the horizontal. It's still uneven though, but at this point I don't think there's much I can do. BTW here are all the adjustments in the 'pincushion menu' (which is funny because pincushion isn't actually one of the options):

    H Position
    V Size
    V S Correction
    V Lin Correction
    E/W Trapezium
    V AGC
    V Position
    V Centering
    V Centering DAC SW
    V-BLK Start Phase
    V-BLK Stop Phase

    Most of these I can figure out what they do, but some like the V AGC, E/W Trapezium, and V Centering DAC SW I have no clue on. Still, none of these seem to address my geometry issues anyway.

  11. #7211
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    The yoke is energized on certain crts from what I've seen.

    Also here is a crt discord. I would ask on there.

    https://discordapp.com/invite/Qc9Tt6g
    Last edited by ChuChu Flamingo; 10-13-2018 at 10:51 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuChu Flamingo View Post
    The yoke is energized on certain crts from what I've seen.

    Also here is a crt discord. I would ask on there.
    Wow, maybe it's a good thing I didn't attempt to touch it then? I guess it wasn't just my spidysense tingling.

  13. #7213
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    Always one hand behind the back. ALWAYS on an isolation transformer.

    A bare arcade CRT, minus an isolation transformer, will fuck your day up.... You become "earth"

  14. #7214
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    Do you need one if you're just rotating the yoke? I know for probing with an oscilloscope you want one to both protect it and yourself.

    If so any recommendations? I've been reading up a lot on them and most newer ones have a third ground pin so you don't get true isolation until you sever it and are not safe with a "hot" chassis.The set in question is a Sony consumer tv that needs it. It has a color purity problem on one side of the screen (already tried degaussing with my wand).

    My procedure would be

    -tv on

    -one hand behind my back

    -wear electricians gloves

    -grab plastic when rotating, not the metal

    -avoid the neckboard, anode flyback, and the sometimes exposed/insulated terminals near the back of the yoke assembly
    Last edited by ChuChu Flamingo; 10-13-2018 at 01:05 PM.
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  15. #7215
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    I honestly have NO idea how to safely rotate a yoke. Only one I rotated came to me loose and I just rubber shoed/gloved/etc the fuck up, isolated the tube, and turned it.

    YMMV.

  16. #7216
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    Ah I see. i am just more curious about the corner cases cause I wouldn't want to be one.
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  17. #7217
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    full screen rotation = yoke.

    Corner color misalignment = convergence strips

    Very easy to do convergence strips, if you follow the "golden rule" (hand behind back, isolated)

    I do all my monitor calibrations with a mirror, in this way I can stand behind the monitor and align test pattern without 2nd person.

  18. #7218
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    You guys are forgetting possibly the 2 most dangerous silent killers on all monitor chassis. B+ depending on the monitor and its state range from 90 - 170VDC. All Chassis have exposed line voltages as the bridge rectifier is on the board.
    Those 2 are far more deadly than HV due to amperage.

    Also if the monitor is already isolated, you do not need an isolation transformer. READ THE MANUAL.
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  19. #7219
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReplicaX View Post
    You guys are forgetting possibly the 2 most dangerous silent killers on all monitor chassis. B+ depending on the monitor and its state range from 90 - 170VDC. All Chassis have exposed line voltages as the bridge rectifier is on the board.
    Those 2 are far more deadly than HV due to amperage.

    Also if the monitor is already isolated, you do not need an isolation transformer. READ THE MANUAL.
    preach

  20. #7220
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    I guess the question I was asking is what happens if you are working on a live chassis with no isolation transformer and simply rotating the yoke up or down. Making sure not to touch the copper windings, exposed terminals, neckboards, and all the other stuff I stated above. I've seen people rotate the yoke without a care in the world while on.

    I read up in the service manual for sony kv-20v80 that it does state to use a isolation transformer since it is a live chassis (hot). Any recommendations for a isolation transformer replica? Most I see have a ground plug which doesn't provide true isolation. Even if you get an adapter 3 prong to 2 prong a lot still tie neutral to ground so you haven't fixed anything.

    But yeah here is how this sony looks.



    Degaussing wand doesn't help much (it doesnt fix it completely and returns after power off). Rotating the crt NSEW it usually just moves it downwards. Having it be on for a little bit makes it a little better. Basically I use this for DDR and want to experiment fixing it for practice. From what I've read and advice i've seen it needs a yoke adjustment up or down. Convergence is off too so I will play with the rings a bit (making note to mark og positions). Nothing much to lose on this set if I do mess it up but it can be RGB modded pretty easily.




    Very good information though ReplicaX. I usually stay far away from the exposed terminals of the rectifier/filter capacitors etc for that very reason. Another thing I've noticed online is most know to discharge a crt before removing the chassis, but forget to discharge the filter capacitors.
    Last edited by ChuChu Flamingo; 10-14-2018 at 08:42 AM.
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  21. #7221
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    Aye, those areas need to be mindful of.

    Quote Originally Posted by ChuChu Flamingo View Post
    I read up in the service manual for sony kv-20v80 that it does state to use a isolation transformer since it is a live chassis (hot). Any recommendations for a isolation transformer replica? Most I see have a ground plug which doesn't provide true isolation. Even if you get an adapter 3 prong to 2 prong a lot still tie neutral to ground so you haven't fixed anything.
    Any real Isolation Transformer provides isolation between the source and device as the primary and secondary coils are not physically connected. Nor do they share any taps on the winding. Most have ground plugs so the transformer itself is grounded in case of a fault and your safety.

    Neutral is only tied to ground at the panel or after the stepdown before your panel. Neutral should never be tied to ground on devices. Otherwise if the device has a chassis ground, you just made all metal on the device live.

    Why I tell anyone with Japanese cabs to properly ground them to avoid the risk of shock or stray voltage. (My Q25 has a ground terminal on the back for this exact reason)
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  22. #7222
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    A lot of the ones I see do exactly what you stated not to if my research is right. The output ground (secondary primary?) is tied to neutral. Of course that is not what you want for working on crts from my reading.

    Technicians isolation transformer is what I see people calling what I want.

    The ones on amazon don't seem to be true technicians isolation transformers if im reading right. Almost all either need to be configured via opening it and severing the connection or if you're lucky it can be configured with jumpers.

    Here is a video I watched which I thought explained it well.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBsQ3sZ45Fk

    Also yeah mad dumb to be running expensive cabinets without proper grounding.
    Last edited by ChuChu Flamingo; 10-14-2018 at 05:21 PM.
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    Really should get around to making a premade board with the AC filter and isolation transformer pre-wired

    The safety implications alone are worth it IMO.

  24. #7224
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuChu Flamingo View Post
    The yoke is energized on certain crts from what I've seen.

    Also here is a crt discord. I would ask on there.

    https://discordapp.com/invite/Qc9Tt6g
    I popped in over there and they said that my TV looks pretty good except for the vertical size (which I've fixed since that picture). It needs some pincushion adjustment but there doesn't seem to be a way to do that on this model (although the menu is called pincushion). Bottom line, I think it's as good as it's going to get unless there's a secret service menu beyond the one I'm using that I havent found.

  25. #7225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tempest View Post
    There's also a problem with some bowing inward in the center on the bottom (see the last picture) that I can't figure out how to fix either.

    That kind of distortion (called seagull) is due to an imperfect correction of the south pincushion by the relative magnet located on the bottom of the deflection yoke (101 in the pic below). At the factory this distortion was deemed tolerable or else they would have tried to modify the magnetic field of that magnet by adding another small magnet close to it. You could do it now.

    yoke0.jpg

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