CRT Fetish Thread
- Thread starter theMot
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If it's male RCA cables coming off of your BNC breakout, you can either use Female-Female RCA couplers and plug normal Male-Male RCA cables into those, or get some Female-Male RCA extension cables.
If you use the non-RGB inputs, you can use Male-Male RCA cables from their loop-through outputs into other inputs on your amp.
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Kinda related, but grabbed some more scart cables and a SB-2840 Scart to component converter.
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You have to tell us how well it works. I'm never a huge fan of converters, but Shinybow makes some great stuff.
Dochartaigh
Edo Express Delivery Guy
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I ordered the Shinybow as soon as it was back in stock too! I've been waiting to try all my RGB systems on my Sony consumer TV's for a few months now. I picked up for free a Sony 20FV300 and 27FV310 which are supposed to be the best consumer SD TV's ever made. When I get the Shinybow in I'll see how the best consumer TV's compare to my PVM/BVM's.
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From all my reading and even my testing it is better than the CSY 2100 clones and matches/exceeds the CSY 2100. No need to tweek pots either! The build quality is amazing too, made of solid metal and comes with a power supply. Also it isn't chinamanese quality as it is made in Taiwan.
Only thing I've read up is it doesn't like the PAL Gamecube RGB sync when using game boy advance GBI-ULL according to guspaz on shmups, but that is because that sync is kinda wonky already. Regular RGB scart works.I have GC component cables anyhow so really that is a none issue. With this in mind if you are having problems with that GC RGB scart in GBI-ULL mode, there is a solution. HD Retrovision gen 2 cables apparently seem to fix the issue and make the wonky sync a little bit better.
As of right now I have tested Csync Sega Saturn and Genesis, going to try sync on luma next but it should be the same. In any case this is definitely a step up from the clone CSY 2100 that are like 50 bucks on feebay. One might as well pay 25-30 more to get one that doesn't require adjusting pots and has left/right audio jacks.
Here is a good page on it by wavebeam, a guy who has been painstakingly trying to create a more accurate rgb nes color palette.
http://wavebeam.blogspot.com/2016/09/hardware-review-shinybow-sb-2840-rgb-to.html
Only thing I've read up is it doesn't like the PAL Gamecube RGB sync when using game boy advance GBI-ULL according to guspaz on shmups, but that is because that sync is kinda wonky already. Regular RGB scart works.I have GC component cables anyhow so really that is a none issue. With this in mind if you are having problems with that GC RGB scart in GBI-ULL mode, there is a solution. HD Retrovision gen 2 cables apparently seem to fix the issue and make the wonky sync a little bit better.
As of right now I have tested Csync Sega Saturn and Genesis, going to try sync on luma next but it should be the same. In any case this is definitely a step up from the clone CSY 2100 that are like 50 bucks on feebay. One might as well pay 25-30 more to get one that doesn't require adjusting pots and has left/right audio jacks.
Here is a good page on it by wavebeam, a guy who has been painstakingly trying to create a more accurate rgb nes color palette.
http://wavebeam.blogspot.com/2016/09/hardware-review-shinybow-sb-2840-rgb-to.html
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nakedarthur
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Thanks for the plug ChuChu 
Is anyone familiar with the 80s Trinitrons like the KV-25XBR? I'm trying to figure out how to adjust vertical centering, but can't seem to find a pot for it. Looking at the Service Manual I see adjustments for H Size, H Center, and V Size, but no V Center. Service Manual is here if anyone else happens to need it. Thanks!
Is anyone familiar with the 80s Trinitrons like the KV-25XBR? I'm trying to figure out how to adjust vertical centering, but can't seem to find a pot for it. Looking at the Service Manual I see adjustments for H Size, H Center, and V Size, but no V Center. Service Manual is here if anyone else happens to need it. Thanks!
MrWunderful
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Has anyone ever seen a guide online of how to take a decent picture of a crt? I can never get a good one.
twoquickcapri
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After years of looking I finally found a PVM-2950q locally for sale. While checking it out at the seller's place I saw that the top of the picture had a slight bowing issue and I figured that it be fixed in the service menu. After going through the service menu I was unable to fix the problem.
So off to google I went. I found a post earlier in this topic of a guy fixing his 2950qm with a bottom bow issue by moving a transistor until it made full contact with its solder points (post #3352). So I poked around the back and found a similar (same?) transistor that would correct the problem while pressing on it.
After removing the VC board I could clearly see that the solder joints had broken on transistor Q1807.
After a quick reflow of these points the monitor top bow issue was corrected.
So off to google I went. I found a post earlier in this topic of a guy fixing his 2950qm with a bottom bow issue by moving a transistor until it made full contact with its solder points (post #3352). So I poked around the back and found a similar (same?) transistor that would correct the problem while pressing on it.
After removing the VC board I could clearly see that the solder joints had broken on transistor Q1807.
After a quick reflow of these points the monitor top bow issue was corrected.
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Geometry is looking pretty decent, only thing I would do is overscan it a tiny bit. Pretty cool you found one locally, but then again you are in California. One of these days I would like to get one of them. How much you pay for it?
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Chaotic Mind
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So I purchased one of these arcade CRT sets. Anyone know if it is any good?
https://shop.xgaming.com/products/tri-mode-crt-arcade-monitor
My plan is to either use it in CGA mode with one of my mv1c boards direct or get mike's Neo VGA board and run the tube in VGA mode. I think VGA mode would be preferred for compatibility with some other MAME stuff I have going.
https://shop.xgaming.com/products/tri-mode-crt-arcade-monitor
My plan is to either use it in CGA mode with one of my mv1c boards direct or get mike's Neo VGA board and run the tube in VGA mode. I think VGA mode would be preferred for compatibility with some other MAME stuff I have going.
Thanks so much for your post, twoquickcapri! I have the same issue on my 2950qm, so I'll have to try the same fix.
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Some people have found success at taking the pics from an angle.
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Yep, I also usually turn the brightness way down.
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Have you tried tweaking vertical hold? It's on the back, one of the external adjustments. IIRC from adjusting it on my KV-25XBR a long time ago, it can affect the vertical position of your signal. Whether it's enough to matter, I dunno.Thanks for the plug ChuChu
Is anyone familiar with the 80s Trinitrons like the KV-25XBR? I'm trying to figure out how to adjust vertical centering, but can't seem to find a pot for it. Looking at the Service Manual I see adjustments for H Size, H Center, and V Size, but no V Center. Service Manual is here if anyone else happens to need it. Thanks!
nakedarthur
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I did, but unfortunately didn't have much luck with it beyond rolling or not rolling picture. I will give it another shot though. Thanks!
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Usually used as a last resort.
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That's gotta be the worst aussie accent...
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I have had one set rejuvenated but it didn't fix the issue. I have a rejuvenator myself now, but I haven't gotten time to use it yet.
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Here's my BVM-1311 I just bought!
It has the service switches on the inside of the pullout panels/trays. Problem was they were locked and the seller didn't have the keys. When I first tested it out, the sync was set to Internal and I couldn't get a stable image. But for the brief moments it did stabilize, I could tell the image looked good. So instead of drilling out the locks, I ended up learning how to pick them from online tutorials. With a split bobby pin and was able to get them unlocked within a couple minutes:
here is where my setting switches are:
I was able to get it to switch to External Sync and voila!
teh sex
Happy I was able to get in easily. Everything looks great, convergence is sweet, straightened up the bowing, perfect image. And now with my new lock picking skills I can begin my career as a master thief!
It has the service switches on the inside of the pullout panels/trays. Problem was they were locked and the seller didn't have the keys. When I first tested it out, the sync was set to Internal and I couldn't get a stable image. But for the brief moments it did stabilize, I could tell the image looked good. So instead of drilling out the locks, I ended up learning how to pick them from online tutorials. With a split bobby pin and was able to get them unlocked within a couple minutes:
here is where my setting switches are:
I was able to get it to switch to External Sync and voila!
teh sex
Happy I was able to get in easily. Everything looks great, convergence is sweet, straightened up the bowing, perfect image. And now with my new lock picking skills I can begin my career as a master thief!
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ShiroHagen
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Hi. I'm glad my fix worked for you too! Yours looks great now 
xsq
Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
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good job!