CRT Fetish Thread

Jibbajaba said:

Do you have an electric drill? You can use that as a makeshift degaussing wand.

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I have seen this before, let me give that a try. Anyone ever have success with a drill?

Jeffpin said:

I have seen this before, let me give that a try. Anyone ever have success with a drill?

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GohanX recently degaussed his Commodore 1702 using this method. That was actually the first time that I had heard of it. So maybe shoot him a PM.

My PVM- 2530 deal fell through. I have a local medical equipment reseller looking for rgb monitors over 20 inches for me. He claims they see 2530's come in at least a couple times a month. So i will just have to be patient. ::twiddling thumbs::

http://www.frys.com/product/487898?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

it does not cost much and works. If this doesn't work you are probably SOL. I used this same one for most bad CRT's I would get in.

Damn, that's a nice price, I might grab one.

I'll go over the ghetto method later, on the phone now.

GohanX said:

Damn, that's a nice price, I might grab one.

I'll go over the ghetto method later, on the phone now.

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Please explain ghetto method, tried real quick when I got home and it did nothing. The screen was warping, flashing, etc. but didn't clear anything up.

Basically, you take a corded drill (cordless will not work) and run it. The motor in the drill creates a small magnetic field that works like a degaussing wand but is not nearly as strong. Turn the drill on its side, put it near the screen and move it in circles with the drill running and pull the drill away about five feet before you turn it off. I'd recommend searching google for degaussing wand technique to go into more detail.

That being said, I don't think a drill is strong enough for what you've got going on, mine just had a little purple spot in the middle of the screen, and it's a 13 inch monitor. It won't hurt to try, but I think you're going to need a real wand. Or give it to me, keke.

That's basically what I did, no change. I think I'll be returning this piece of shit after seeing what it looks like with a source hooked up. Colors are whack on all inputs (RGB, composite, etc.). I tried adjusting color levels and no change. Anyone know how to do full reset as last resort?

FYI, huge PVM haul at the Seattle Goodwill on Dearborn. All 8 inches.

Employee said a production studio dropped off their entire stock for a tax write-off.





I picked up an Ikegami with S-Video for $12. When I left there were ~3 left.



Majority of the Sonys only had composite in:



One or two better Sonys with RGB and S-Video. Unfortunately gone by the time I came back the next day with my test SNES.

Yeah finally got my first PVM(Sony 20L2MD) but got a bit damage through shipping. At least the picture quality looks awesome. I was able to test out SNES & Saturn RGB, wow they look great. I also tried out S-video for my shitty super gun & was blown away.

I didn't know PVM were so huge though. It was also pretty damn heavy. Mine didn't come w/ a remote but was wondering if a universal remote work? Also i notice the picture has a tiny black gap on the right, i believe these are overscans. Its there a way to adjust slightly? Service menu?

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good multi-console S-Video/Composite hookup?

Something for quick testing and times when I don't have the RGB cable for a console. I'll leave it permanently hooked up to to my PVM, so I'd prefer not to constantly be behind the TV switching out dedicated S-Video cables.

Something retro, high-quality, heavy-duty, braided, etc. would be cool.

Main wishes:

- SNES/N64/GameCube
- PS1/PS2
- Dreamcast

Also nice:

- Genesis
- Saturn
- Xbox 1

HDRchampion said:

Yeah finally got my first PVM(Sony 20L2MD) but got a bit damage through shipping. At least the picture quality looks awesome. I was able to test out SNES & Saturn RGB, wow they look great. I also tried out S-video for my shitty super gun & was blown away.

I didn't know PVM were so huge though. It was also pretty damn heavy. Mine didn't come w/ a remote but was wondering if a universal remote work? Also i notice the picture has a tiny black gap on the right, i believe these are overscans. Its there a way to adjust slightly? Service menu?

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20L2 should have a service menu. http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?248672-PVM-Service-Manuals-20M2MDU-and-others

The 20M2MDU manual will probably cover it. Usually it's menu, then enter + degauss to get into the service menu iirc. Just read the instructions carefully.

thats crazy that all those PVMs got dropped off at goodwill. I ran into a PVM once at a good will, but it wouldn't power on, so i didn't bother getting it

I would make the drive if those PVMs were 14" at least.

Thanks skates for the PVM links.

Just figured out factory reset on the PVM:

1. Press Menu to bring up main menu
2. Press Select + Degauss to bring up Service Menu
3. Hold "Blue Only" button until top menu says "Factory Reset"
4. Press "Blue Only" again to preform reset

Off topic question, but I need someone who actually has a PVM to do this so this is probably the best place to ask (indulge me).

I have a TurboDuo that was modded for RGB, but the person who did it used a 9-pin connector instead of the standard DIN plug the Duo uses. I asked the person who was doing my recap job to make me a 9-pin dsub to SCART cable so I can use it on my PVM, but he didn't have a RGB monitor test it out on and his cable doesn't work (no picture at all). So I need someone to fix the cable for me. The easiest way to do it would be to send them my Duo along with the cable so they can test everything on their end with their PVM monitor. Please let me know if you'd be interested in such a job (should be fairly easy I'd think since it's just rewiring a cable) and how much you'd charge. I know the RGB does work, so that's not the problem.

Just in case this is something super easy that I might be able to do (my soldering skills suck, but I can do a wire or two), this is what he did. He thinks he wired it up for Euro SCART (which is what I need), but he wasn't all that familiar with RGB and SCART so there might be an error (he basically did this as a favor to me, so I really can't complain).

9 pin connector
1 red
2 red ground
3 green
4 green ground
5 blue
6 blue ground
7 composite sync
8 left audio
9 right audio
(shell) audio ground (really all the grounds are tied together inside the machine)

And the SCART connector is

Hey Tempest,

Do you know what the pinout of the 9-pin connector on your Duo is? Is that what you have listed, or is that what your buddy wired up in the cable that he made for you? If you have sync (either c-sync or c-vid depending on your model of PVM) going to pin 20 and even one of the colors wired in properly, you should see SOMETHING.

Honestly, you have the SCART hood, a length of cable, and the 9-pin connector, so you can do this yourself rather than paying someone. The SCART diagram you have there is correct, so something is not jiving between the way your 9-pin connectors are wired up.

Chris

That's how he said he wired it up (although that doesn't really answer the question does it?). Here's all the info I have.

My buddy who originally wired this thing up used a standard VGA style plug because that's what he had on hand. I know it worked then because I had an old VGA to BNC cable that I tried with it and got a nice picture (but no sound obviously). When I sent my Duo off to be recapped the person who did it put in a 9 pin connector because he had to replace the original for some reason or another. While he was in there he wired in sound to that 9-pin connector for me so I'd have everything I need coming through that SCART cable. He then wired the cable like you see above. However when I tried it I got nothing. I did see a brief picture when I wiggled it around but it was all one color (blue, red, or green) and was only a split second. I assumed this meant that something was loose inside, but it all looks good. For obvious reasons I don't really want to 'jiggle the connector around' too much so I haven't been able to reproduce that.

The other wrinkle in all of this is that I have this thing going through a Sync Strike because I use that Sync Strike to connect SCART stuff to my PVM (since it takes in SCART and has a VGA style plug for output) and none of my cables have the built in Sync stripper. However the Duo RGB mod my friend did DOES have the sync stripper included hence I was able to use that VGA to BNC cable and get a picture even though I bypassed the Sync Strike. I'm not sure if using a sync stripper on something that already has the sync stripped out of it could cause a problem or not. I wouldn't think so, but I just thought I'd throw that out there.

Does your sync strike get power from the cable? The db9 isn't getting 5v, not really required for most setups but the sync stripper needs power from somewhere if it doesn't have its own power supply.

GohanX said:

Does your sync strike get power from the cable? The db9 isn't getting 5v, not really required for most setups but the sync stripper needs power from somewhere if it doesn't have its own power supply.

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It can do either. There's a switch that allows it to get power from a power supply or you can turn that off and get it from the cable. I tried both and neither worked.

http://arcadeforge.net/Scaler-and-Strike-Devices/Sync-Strike::15.html

How did he mod it for RGB? When I used the normal THS amp with the well known default setup with just 75ohm>220uf out on the Duo, I barely got any picture at all. I had to build the circuit a bit differently to get the proper levels for the picture to show.

Xian Xi said:

How did he mod it for RGB? When I used the normal THS amp with the well known default setup with just 75ohm>220uf out on the Duo, I barely got any picture at all. I had to build the circuit a bit differently to get the proper levels for the picture to show.

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I don't remember honestly. I think we looked up how to mod for RGB on the net and followed those instructions. He used an amp, I know that. I also know it worked as I stated before that I was able to use a VGA to BNC cable and got a great picture (before the socket got changed to a 9 pin). I'll try and find the specific instructions we used. I can also crack the Duo open and take some pictures if that will help.

Not sure what to make of this. If I half plug in the 9-pin connector (sort of tilt it to the left) then I can get the image to come up but it's all yellow. I got it to come up in all red once too. If I plug it in fully it disappears. Not sure what this means.

Opening up the cable and looking at how it's wired, everything *appears* to be correct. The only things I see are:

1. None of the grounds other than Audio Ground are hooked up inside the SCART end. At least there's no wire going to those pins. His notes say "(really all the grounds are tied together inside the machine)" so I'm not sure if that's the problem or not.

2. Composite Sync is hooked to the Video In (pin 20) on the SCART connector. I assume this is correct.


9 pin connector
1 red
2 red ground
3 green
4 green ground
5 blue
6 blue ground
7 composite sync
8 left audio
9 right audio
(shell) audio ground (really all the grounds are tied together inside the machine)

And the SCART connector is
View attachment 19379

It all depends. Even if all the grounds are tied together inside the machine that doesn't mean that whatever the SCART is plugging into is the same. Usually the PVM has the video grounds tied together but on mine it doesn't handle audio so if my cable only had audio ground then I'd have a problem.

Try adding a piece of wire from the audio ground to the shield of the SCART, if you can't solder to the shield(some don't) then solder to a video ground like 13, 9 or 5.

Tempest said:

1. None of the grounds other than Audio Ground are hooked up inside the SCART end. At least there's no wire going to those pins. His notes say "(really all the grounds are tied together inside the machine)" so I'm not sure if that's the problem or not.

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I'm by no means an authority, or even all that knowledgeable on the subject, but in fiddling around attempting to make a VGA->SCART cable, I couldn't get any type of picture on my PVM without having at least 1 of the video grounds connected and even then it was really noisy. That could be part of the problem right there.