CRT Fetish Thread

NucaCola

NucaCola

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Here's an update on my setup. I finally got my Kallax shelving units not too long ago and got everything setup in them. The only rgb scart cables I have are for my AES and my modded SNES mini. I ordered rgb scart cables for my Sega Genesis and Saturn, and will get one for my PS1 as well. Which leaves my N64 and Gamecube. I'm probably going to buy a rgb modded N64, and my Gamecube I'm not sure what I'm going to do for it but I'm going to find a solution for it.
Tell me what you guys think! Any ideas?
IMG_0558.JPG
 
DanAdamKOF

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If you're just playing GameCube titles, use a Wii with Component cables. There's a whole song and dance to softmod a Wii and get it doing 60hz RGB but it's a pain.
 
kuze

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Best solution for GameCube is probably gcvideo, barring being able to find a component or dterminal cable to convert to rgb.
 
Wachenroder

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DanAdamKOF said:
If you're just playing GameCube titles, use a Wii with Component cables. There's a whole song and dance to softmod a Wii and get it doing 60hz RGB but it's a pain.
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still giving you trouble eh? :lolz: One day im gonna have to try and walk you through that. Its so weird that your Wii just wont play nice.


It sort of is a pain but once you know how to do it, its really not that bad. Ultimately its not really worth the trouble over just going with component unless you dont have a reliable component solution. Then RGB all the way.
 
skate323k137

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I use a modded wii as well. I recently started using open ps2 loader with GSM on PS2. Forced progressive scan on gradius v is glorious (which reminds me to get off my ass and play the shmup of the month).
 
NucaCola

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kuze said:
Best solution for GameCube is probably gcvideo, barring being able to find a component or dterminal cable to convert to rgb.
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Yeah unfortunately I really don't understand what gcvideo actually is I watched My Life In Gaming talk about it a little bit, that there's an analog and digital version, and that it's a chip you install into the GC, but besides that, I still really don't know what it does.
Can someone eli5 on this subject?
 
F

F34R

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Welp, after 7ish months, the Sony KV died. :(
I was looking at a Samsung SlimFit CRT (TX-T2082), but wasn't sure if that's something worth getting when it comes to picture quality. I'm kinda burnt out looking at this point. Any affordable ($200-300) suggestions would be greatly appreciated. It'll be only for old console gaming. The Wii would be the "Newest" console to even go on it. Primarily NES/SNES/Genesis eras.
 
CrazyDean

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I was using RGB on my NA Wii with external hdd. I got tired of my Wii booting in red and then having to force RGB 60Hz on every new Wii game. Even then, not every game works in RGB which means you have to switch cables and change your settings. It was just too much trouble.

In the end, I just went back to component. I can even use emulators if I want now.
 
ChuChu Flamingo

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F34R said:
Welp, after 7ish months, the Sony KV died. :(
I was looking at a Samsung SlimFit CRT (TX-T2082), but wasn't sure if that's something worth getting when it comes to picture quality. I'm kinda burnt out looking at this point. Any affordable ($200-300) suggestions would be greatly appreciated. It'll be only for old console gaming. The Wii would be the "Newest" console to even go on it. Primarily NES/SNES/Genesis eras.
Click to expand...


It will probably look fine but keep in mind flat crts have geometry issues that you will need to iron out in the service menu, a lot of times even that won't fix it all. Other than that it should look good but like all CRTs it depends upon how often it was used and what type of content it displayed over its lifespan.
 
F

F34R

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ChuChu Flamingo said:
It will probably look fine but keep in mind flat crts have geometry issues that you will need to iron out in the service menu, a lot of times even that won't fix it all. Other than that it should look good but like all CRTs it depends upon how often it was used and what type of content it displayed over its lifespan.
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Thank you. I migh just slide over to a goodwill store and grab something on the cheap there. I’m sitting on the stupid crt bvm bug and almost willing to spend money I don’t really have in order to get one lol. My wife is just about annoyed as she can get when I keep mentioning it lol.
 
CrazyDean

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F34R said:
Thank you. I migh just slide over to a goodwill store and grab something on the cheap there. I’m sitting on the stupid crt bvm bug and almost willing to spend money I don’t really have in order to get one lol. My wife is just about annoyed as she can get when I keep mentioning it lol.
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Get an Olympus OEV203. They're identical to the Sony PVM 20M2MDU and can usually be found cheaper. Also, they were originally endoscopy monitors so of course good content was displayed over its lifetime.
 
F

F34R

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CrazyDean said:
Get an Olympus OEV203. They're identical to the Sony PVM 20M2MDU and can usually be found cheaper. Also, they were originally endoscopy monitors so of course good content was displayed over its lifetime.
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That’s the other one I’ve been looking for. PM me if necessary, but what would a decent price be for that one?
 
DanAdamKOF

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Samsung Slimfits are shit. Don't bother.


Wachenroder said:
still giving you trouble eh? :lolz: One day im gonna have to try and walk you through that. Its so weird that your Wii just wont play nice.


It sort of is a pain but once you know how to do it, its really not that bad. Ultimately its not really worth the trouble over just going with component unless you dont have a reliable component solution. Then RGB all the way.
Click to expand...
My KV-25XBR has RGB but not Component, so it's still of interest.

I'll probably PM you about it, would be nice to have a decent set of steps.
 
CrazyDean

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F34R said:
That’s the other one I’ve been looking for. PM me if necessary, but what would a decent price be for that one?
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TBH, anything under $200 seems good these days. The way I got a PVM and BVM was patience on eBay. Don't get your heart set on a certain model as long as it supports RGB. I've seen several instances where someone has bought a lot from a school or hospital and just puts them all up on eBay for either low BIN or auction. This floods the market. It's how I got a BVM for $175 when BIN prices on the same model were over double that.

Also, any model that is well known will go for more money i.e. 32E1WU or 20F1U. Don't be afraid to go for a lesser known model. The difference between a good commercial CRT and the best CRT isn't very much.

EDIT: My OEV203 was $125 shipped about three years ago. BINs at the time were about $200, IIRC.
 
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F

F34R

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CrazyDean said:
TBH, anything under $200 seems good these days. The way I got a PVM and BVM was patience on eBay. Don't get your heart set on a certain model as long as it supports RGB. I've seen several instances where someone has bought a lot from a school or hospital and just puts them all up on eBay for either low BIN or auction. This floods the market. It's how I got a BVM for $175 when BIN prices on the same model were over double that.

Also, any model that is well known will go for more money i.e. 32E1WU or 20F1U. Don't be afraid to go for a lesser known model. The difference between a good commercial CRT and the best CRT isn't very much.

EDIT: My OEV203 was $125 shipped about three years ago. BINs at the time were about $200, IIRC.
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Ahh, thanks. I found one for $200, but it’s in Califonia lol, no shipping. :(
 
Wachenroder

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xsq said:
Wachenroder is your man...

Oh and: Nice looking setup! Where do you keep the controllers?
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Thanks bro!

CrazyDean said:
I was using RGB on my NA Wii with external hdd. I got tired of my Wii booting in red and then having to force RGB 60Hz on every new Wii game. Even then, not every game works in RGB which means you have to switch cables and change your settings. It was just too much trouble.

In the end, I just went back to component. I can even use emulators if I want now.
Click to expand...

There is an app called "any region changer" this will allow you to turn your Wii system region to PAL. The trade off there is everything runs at 50hz so you have to force PAL60 (which you say you were already doing)

This will eliminate the color issues.

You do have to be careful with it. it can definitely cause some major problems if youre reckless.

the downside of changing your region is wiiware and VC games will all be in PAL 50hz so you will have to use USBLOADER GX to force PAL60 on those from now on. this wouldnt be a problem except with those types of games, they are stored either on the NAND memory (which is quite limited capacity) or the SD card. Games stored on the SD card (as far as i know) cannot be forced to PAL60 because USBloader wont recognize them. You have to move them to the main menu so USBloader GX can see them.
 
CrazyDean

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As I said, it's a pain. I saw no difference in video quality. So for me, it wasn't worth the hassle.

I could see it being useful if you needed everything to run through RGB for convenience sake, but I have two inputs on my BVM and a component switch as well as a scart switch.
 
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joala

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ChuChu Flamingo said:
SB-2840 RGB SCART to component adapter and some random S-video splitter.

NPuRSNG.jpg
Click to expand...


That Shinybow is the shit, no scart sockets in Aussie

How do you find the Gscart?
 
ChuChu Flamingo

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It is extremely good. There are two models actually, Gscart(discontinued)and Gscart Lite which is the one I currently have. It has 8 SCART inputs, 2 SCART outputs with no quality loss according to retrorgb and others who have tested it.

It even automatically switches inputs when you turn the console on so no need to have a remote or push buttons to switch to a different socket. If I remember correctly, Superg is talking about releasing a manual override board should you need it (you won't unless you are comparing console revisions or using sync on green over scart which the lite doesn't support atm).

Additionally it even has a built in sync stripper function that can be toggled on or off if your device needs CSYNC and your cable is using Luma or Composite Video as sync. Just make sure if you get CSYNC scart cables for your systems that they are properly attenuated to 75 ohms. Retro console accessories and retro console cables both properly attenuate their cables so you should be good to go if you buy from them. Best case scenario if you don't have it attenuated right and you plug it into the Gscart it will just drop sync, worst case is that it will fry the chip inside the scart switcher.

The regular Gscart is pretty much the same but one of the outputs is a Dsub style output. This allowed people to grab a cheap HD15 to 4 BNC adapter from monoprice instead of making a custom SCART to BNC. I think this model also has a low pass filter, but not sure.I think you can do sync on green on port 8 as well as its the default port that is on when it doesn't detect sync. In any case this model has been discontinued.

http://retrorgb.com/gscartsw.html
 
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joala

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Nice work, just saw the price...yikes. Makes my 3 scart switcher look positively pathetic lol

Will wait till my OSSC arrives before deciding on the GScart.
 
kuze

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ChuChu Flamingo said:
It is extremely good. There are two models actually, Gscart(discontinued)and Gscart Lite which is the one I currently have. It has 8 SCART inputs, 2 SCART outputs with no quality loss according to retrorgb and others who have tested it.

It even automatically switches inputs when you turn the console on so no need to have a remote or push buttons to switch to a different socket. If I remember correctly, Superg is talking about releasing a manual override board should you need it (you won't unless you are comparing console revisions or using sync on green over scart which the lite doesn't support atm).

Additionally it even has a built in sync stripper function that can be toggled on or off if your device needs CSYNC and your cable is using Luma or Composite Video as sync. Just make sure if you get CSYNC scart cables for your systems that they are properly attenuated to 75 ohms. Retro console accessories and retro console cables both properly attenuate their cables so you should be good to go if you buy from them. Best case scenario if you don't have it attenuated right and you plug it into the Gscart it will just drop sync, worst case is that it will fry the chip inside the scart switcher.

The regular Gscart is pretty much the same but one of the outputs is a Dsub style output. This allowed people to grab a cheap HD15 to 4 BNC adapter from monoprice instead of making a custom SCART to BNC. I think this model also has a low pass filter, but not sure.I think you can do sync on green on port 8 as well as its the default port that is on when it doesn't detect sync. In any case this model has been discontinued.

http://retrorgb.com/gscartsw.html
Click to expand...

Has anyone actually had a cable fry the chip on a gscart? That would blow after spending $200 on a SCART switch.
 
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