DavidG
REAL NAME: Jason Young, KNOWN SCAMMER, , This con-
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2010
- Posts
- 372
Here we have the final release of the upgrade board at version 1.6. Below are the steps to install this board on the outside of the converter.
Step 1: Confirm if you have a ZMC2 or CMC version of the Phantom-1. Sadly !Arcade! made all colors with both chips so the only way to test for this is to play a game with scaling issues on a 3-x neo board. You will not see any issues with a Phantom-1 on a first gen neo board.
I recommend using Samurai Shodown 1 which is cheap and a very good game for the price. Load the game and visit any stage then move back and allow the game to zoom out. On a 3-x system (3-3, 3-4, 3-5 or 3-6) 5v, 9v, 10v or 12v you will see one of two things as seen below:
You have a ZMC2 converter
You have a CMC converter
For ZMC2 versions of the converter you will see white lines running down the screen. Take note that on some systems the lines are very clear and easy to see while on others they can be very faint. You should be able to pause the game and see no pixels moving on screen. If you see white lines or moving pixels you have a ZMC2 converter.
If your screen is perfect then you have a CMC version converter which allows you to skip a step at the end of this post.
Step 2: Flip the converter over to the side without the white triangle as seen below and remove all 8 screws. Once the 8 have been removed the two boards should come apart without much force.
Step 3: Select where you want to install this board. You have two choices, you can install the board on the outside or on the inside. Installing the board on the outside is much faster. If you wish to install the board on the inside please check my other post for instructions.
Step 4: Next you must cut 16 lines on the program board. Use the image below to find the best place to make the cut. Once done use a multimeter to confirm the lines have been cut.
Once done use a permanent marker that matches your Phantom-1's color to cover the cuts you have made.
Step 4a: View the image below first.
Here you can see the location that the board will be installed at. The board comes with two sided tape which allows you to place it down and continue to connect it if you like. One trick to make your install much easier is to remove the tape backing and sit the board gently down in the middle of the Phantom-1's board (around the large cut out hole). Don't press down on the upgrade board so you can lift and move it later. Now you have much more room to install the 16 MVS wires to the top side of the upgrade board.
Along the top side of the upgrade board are 16 lines that start with A05 which lines up with the MVS cart connector at A05. Using wire wrap (found at Radio Shack in your choice of colors) connect the first 16 lines using the shortest wires you can. Once all 16 are done you can now lift the board and move it up to where it should go. Note - make sure to take your time and bend the wires as you need to in order to make a good fit as seen in the image. Once the board is in place press it down from the sides. The board shouldn't move at this point. No need to worry about the screw shown in the image at this time, we will add that in at the end.
Step 4b) Next you must connect power and ground as seen in the image. The wire I use here for power and ground are 22 AWG.
Step 5) Using the image from step 4 you must now remove the solder mask for the final 16 lines on the new board. Take your time and don't be to heavy, the mask will come off quite well without much force. Once all 16 have been cleared like the image above you can apply solder to all of them and you're set to move on.
Step 6) Next you must connect the 16 pads you just created to the lower side of the upgrade board as seen below.
Step 7) Now it's time to connect the last 4 wires. You can connect all 4 to the MVS side or all to the AES side. I choose to do 3 on the AES and the last wire on the MVS side due to location. Use the image above for reference.
Step 8) Check your power and grounds before you test. If one wire of this mod is wrong or missing your converter will not start at all. If your converter starts you're done this part of the install.
If you found that your Phantom-1 uses a ZMC2 then move to Step 9. If you have a CMC converter move to Step 9a.
Step 9) ZMC2 owners must complete the diode mod to correct the scaling issues found in games like Samurai Shodown.
At this point of the install you should only have one pad left on the upgrade board that is unused. That's where you will route power to your graphics board.
Take the graphics board (the one with the white triangle) and cut the two VCC pads, one found at the top of the board and the other at the bottom. In the image below I have already made the cuts and used a blue marker to fill in the cut. Doing these two cuts will dissable power to the inner vcc layer of your converter (which powers your ZMC2).
We're going to connect the final power wire from the new upgrade board to the converter last. Before we can connect that wire we need to add a few more to support MSX and NG Dev games.
Step 9a) This is optional but recommended. Add a wire from VCC AES to VCC on the MVS side as seen below.
Step 9b) Metal Slug X requires you to run a wire from B35 on the program board to A29 on the GFX board. Run a long enough wire so you can make the connection with the boards apart.
Step 9c) NG Dev Team requires you to run a wire from the program board (the one with the new upgrade board) at A42 to the graphics board at B18. For the program's A42 you must lift or cut the pin to the MVS cart connector. In the image below I lifted the pin. For the wire we can run this around the side of the converter or drill a hole like you see pointed out in the VCC image above. They both work so it's up to you. Below are images of the wire being run around the side.
Step 9d) The final step is to run the final wire using a 22 AWG wire from the diode out on the new upgrade board to the graphics board inner side. The best place to connect this to would be vcc on the 74LS32 as seen below. You can run this wire around the board, make a new hole or use one of the two large holes found near the center of the board.
That's everything. Place both boards back together, check for any hanging wires and use the stand-offs to tuck them in. Add the 8 screws with lock washers back in and enjoy your upgraded converter.
Step 1: Confirm if you have a ZMC2 or CMC version of the Phantom-1. Sadly !Arcade! made all colors with both chips so the only way to test for this is to play a game with scaling issues on a 3-x neo board. You will not see any issues with a Phantom-1 on a first gen neo board.
I recommend using Samurai Shodown 1 which is cheap and a very good game for the price. Load the game and visit any stage then move back and allow the game to zoom out. On a 3-x system (3-3, 3-4, 3-5 or 3-6) 5v, 9v, 10v or 12v you will see one of two things as seen below:
You have a ZMC2 converter
You have a CMC converter
For ZMC2 versions of the converter you will see white lines running down the screen. Take note that on some systems the lines are very clear and easy to see while on others they can be very faint. You should be able to pause the game and see no pixels moving on screen. If you see white lines or moving pixels you have a ZMC2 converter.
If your screen is perfect then you have a CMC version converter which allows you to skip a step at the end of this post.
Step 2: Flip the converter over to the side without the white triangle as seen below and remove all 8 screws. Once the 8 have been removed the two boards should come apart without much force.
Step 3: Select where you want to install this board. You have two choices, you can install the board on the outside or on the inside. Installing the board on the outside is much faster. If you wish to install the board on the inside please check my other post for instructions.
Step 4: Next you must cut 16 lines on the program board. Use the image below to find the best place to make the cut. Once done use a multimeter to confirm the lines have been cut.
Once done use a permanent marker that matches your Phantom-1's color to cover the cuts you have made.
Step 4a: View the image below first.
Here you can see the location that the board will be installed at. The board comes with two sided tape which allows you to place it down and continue to connect it if you like. One trick to make your install much easier is to remove the tape backing and sit the board gently down in the middle of the Phantom-1's board (around the large cut out hole). Don't press down on the upgrade board so you can lift and move it later. Now you have much more room to install the 16 MVS wires to the top side of the upgrade board.
Along the top side of the upgrade board are 16 lines that start with A05 which lines up with the MVS cart connector at A05. Using wire wrap (found at Radio Shack in your choice of colors) connect the first 16 lines using the shortest wires you can. Once all 16 are done you can now lift the board and move it up to where it should go. Note - make sure to take your time and bend the wires as you need to in order to make a good fit as seen in the image. Once the board is in place press it down from the sides. The board shouldn't move at this point. No need to worry about the screw shown in the image at this time, we will add that in at the end.
Step 4b) Next you must connect power and ground as seen in the image. The wire I use here for power and ground are 22 AWG.
Step 5) Using the image from step 4 you must now remove the solder mask for the final 16 lines on the new board. Take your time and don't be to heavy, the mask will come off quite well without much force. Once all 16 have been cleared like the image above you can apply solder to all of them and you're set to move on.
Step 6) Next you must connect the 16 pads you just created to the lower side of the upgrade board as seen below.
Step 7) Now it's time to connect the last 4 wires. You can connect all 4 to the MVS side or all to the AES side. I choose to do 3 on the AES and the last wire on the MVS side due to location. Use the image above for reference.
Step 8) Check your power and grounds before you test. If one wire of this mod is wrong or missing your converter will not start at all. If your converter starts you're done this part of the install.
If you found that your Phantom-1 uses a ZMC2 then move to Step 9. If you have a CMC converter move to Step 9a.
Step 9) ZMC2 owners must complete the diode mod to correct the scaling issues found in games like Samurai Shodown.
At this point of the install you should only have one pad left on the upgrade board that is unused. That's where you will route power to your graphics board.
Take the graphics board (the one with the white triangle) and cut the two VCC pads, one found at the top of the board and the other at the bottom. In the image below I have already made the cuts and used a blue marker to fill in the cut. Doing these two cuts will dissable power to the inner vcc layer of your converter (which powers your ZMC2).
We're going to connect the final power wire from the new upgrade board to the converter last. Before we can connect that wire we need to add a few more to support MSX and NG Dev games.
Step 9a) This is optional but recommended. Add a wire from VCC AES to VCC on the MVS side as seen below.
Step 9b) Metal Slug X requires you to run a wire from B35 on the program board to A29 on the GFX board. Run a long enough wire so you can make the connection with the boards apart.
Step 9c) NG Dev Team requires you to run a wire from the program board (the one with the new upgrade board) at A42 to the graphics board at B18. For the program's A42 you must lift or cut the pin to the MVS cart connector. In the image below I lifted the pin. For the wire we can run this around the side of the converter or drill a hole like you see pointed out in the VCC image above. They both work so it's up to you. Below are images of the wire being run around the side.
Step 9d) The final step is to run the final wire using a 22 AWG wire from the diode out on the new upgrade board to the graphics board inner side. The best place to connect this to would be vcc on the 74LS32 as seen below. You can run this wire around the board, make a new hole or use one of the two large holes found near the center of the board.
That's everything. Place both boards back together, check for any hanging wires and use the stand-offs to tuck them in. Add the 8 screws with lock washers back in and enjoy your upgraded converter.
Last edited:
