Neo Geo Cleaning Tips.

Finch

Hardened Shock Trooper
10 Year Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Posts
431
I see a lot of questions and discussion on how to clean MVS carts, dirty motherboards, edge connectors and other restoration related maintenance. I thought it might be nice to have a thread for everyone to pitch in their cleaning procedures, what to do, what to avoid at all costs.

Since it's kind of up to us, as collectors, to preserve this stuff it would be nice to have some reference for new members to on how to not destroy their Neo Geo stuff by trying to clean it.


I'll start with my experience.

========Cart PCBs========

Yes, you can wash them. Electronics aren't ruined by water, they are ruined by water shorting things when the board is powered. As long as the board is COMPLETELY dry when before you use it again, it will be fine.

I have personally opened a cart, taken the boards out, scrubbed them with a toothbrush and 409, rinsed them thoroughly and stuck them in front of a fan for hours. They were fine.

other suggestions I've seen are sticking them in the dishwasher, but if your dishwasher has a drying cycle you should skip that as it gets extremely hot. Some brands of Dishwasher, such as Bosch get extremely hot, upwards of 300 F, so you might want to check what temperature your dishwasher gets to before washing your carts.

More timid people can use q-tips and rubbing alcohol, or toothbrush and rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol evaporates really quickly so the dangers of lingering water are negated.

After washing a cart let it dry. Before drying carts its a good idea to get the water out fron under the IC's. A can of compressed air works great for this. A lot of water can stay trapped under snugly mounted ICs and it may not be dry even when the rest of the board appears to be totally dry. Best ways to dry a cart is to sit it in front of the fan, place it near a heater or if your oven is gas and has a pilot light it will stay warm and dry at all times which is a great place to dry carts. Letting the boards sit in the sun works well too.


========MVS Motherboards========
You should not clean a motherboard with anything but maybe a Q-tip and some alcohol if the backup battery is still installed. Running power through a wet board could short something, and as long as the battery is installed there is a danger of something getting shorted.

That said, if your doing a battery replacement mod anyways go ahead and clean it just like you would a cart, although I'd anything that could make it excessively hot. I've cleaned a 1C with a toothbrush and 409 after the battery was removed and it was fine.

[If someone could clarify that capacitors won't hold enough charge once the board is powered off to pose a threat when washing a board, I would greatly appreciate it]

NOTE: the large surface mount chips on most Neo Geo motherboards can trap an awful lot of water underneath them. If your clean a motherboard I highly suggest you use a can of compressed air to blow out any water hiding under the chips and dry it for a very long time. Better safe than sorry

========Cart edge connectors========

Anytime I get a new cart I always run a Q-tip with rubbing alcohol along the connectors to get off any excess dust and grime and stop it from getting gunk in the slot on my motherboard.

If your having problems with graphical glitches, sound or anything else I suggest using a pen eraser. These are the two tone gray and white erasers easily found in any office supply store or art store. The dark gray side has abrasive grit that will clean contacts amazingly well. It may be hard to get the eraser where you need it without taking apart the cartridge and taking the boards out, or trimming the eraser.

========MVS cases========

A simple damp rag will remove most dust from the outside of a case and is safe to wipe over the label if done gingerly and the rag is merely damp, and not wet. Paper labels should be wiped very gingerly, holo labels are much more robust.

To clean dust out of the vents a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol works well. If your case is really filthy, and a lot of the dust is inside things get trickier if it's more than can be cleaned with the Q-tip alcohol method.

I have opened a cart and scrubbed the inside with a toothbrush and kitchen cleaner and rinsed it carefully in a way that didn't get water or cleaner on the label. It was a holo label so it was rather water resistant anyways, but it was not easy and it would have been easy to make mistakes.


========Mini Marquees========
A good wipe with a damp rag works best but if there is any sticky residue the best way to clean it off without scratching the plastic is to use Citrus De-greaser. This can be bought at any bike ship where it's used for cleaning bike chains. It's non toxic, biodegradable and safe to use indoors and it won't hurt the marquees. It also smells like oranges....kind of. Just dab some on a paper towel or rag and scrub the sticky residue and it should come off easily enough.


Please add your own experiences and techniques

An additional interesting link, although not particularly useful to Neo Geo collectors, is Retrobright. This is a gel substance formulated to restore yellowed plastic electronics does an amazing job of returning old plastic items back to the original color. I might work on Mini marquees, but I have my doubts. Works wonders on old game systems though.

http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/
 

shadows

Mature's Make-up Artist
Joined
Apr 18, 2010
Posts
1,352
Some good tips finch.
Some more info for corrosion/battery leaks. (Taken from the arcade otaku wiki http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/PCB_Cleaning_101)

Corrosion (acid damage, salt water spray, etc.)

Corrosion should be neutralized and cleaned as soon as possible. The most common forms of corrosion on game PCB's will usually be salt-air exposure and battery acid (from Lithium or NiCad batteries).

In the case of battery acid leakage, the board should be neutralized with a mixture of baking soda and water forming a thin paste. Gently scrub the paste into the PCB with a toothbrush and let it sit for 20-30 minutes. Note that acids can often get under the protective solder-mask coating of a PCB and travel along the traces to areas quite far from where the visible battery damage has occurred. A neutralizing "soak" with the base mixture will help mitigate any further ingress of the acid.

After soaking/scrubbing, rinse the board thoroughly and follow-up with the "Grime" cleaning procedure listed above.

For boards suffering from salt-air or water-based corrosion, the cleaning procedure for "Grime" is usually all that is required.

Salt and acid damaged boards will often form hard oxides on metal surfaces that won't yield to gentle scrubbing. Media blasting (glass or plastic beads or crush walnut shells or corn cobs) will often help remove more stubborn oxides and tarnish.
 

DaytimeDreamer

Southern Pounce.,
Joined
Jul 22, 2005
Posts
747
Nice post ...

When you say you can wash jamma boards, does it matter if they have batteries installed?
 

Finch

Hardened Shock Trooper
10 Year Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Posts
431
Nice post ...

When you say you can wash jamma boards, does it matter if they have batteries installed?

Yes.

You should not wash any board that has a battery installed. If your can remove the battery it should be safe.

NOTE: Should. I'm not electronics expert but as far as I know most electrical components are pretty much water proof and the only danger comes from water shorting components if the board is powered when it is still wet. There could be components that shouldn't get wet, or components that take an incredibly long time to dry properly. I washed a MV-1C with battery removed and it was fine, some other boards might not be, but in general I would think as long as there is no power from a battery or anything it's safe.
 

Xian Xi

JammaNationX,
15 Year Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Posts
27,750
Remember not to submerge the boards in water just wash them and rinse. I use a toothbrush. For any corrosion and edge cleaning I use DeoxitD5.
 

awbacon

Kyokughen Trainee
10 Year Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2009
Posts
4,226
Those double sided white and grey erasers can be a real pain to fit into the gap between an AES cart and the edge connectors. Since I don't want to take the carts apart, heres my tip

Use an Xacto knife or a razor blade, and cut the eraser in half length wise. It then fits in perfectly. No need to open up your AES cart shell
 

Drazic

n00b
Joined
Jul 16, 2010
Posts
8
I've got a Metal slug 2 MVS cart with garbled audio. I cleaned all the contacts with alcohol but there's still no proper audio. Sometimes the sound on the title screen is good but after I press start the audio is always garbled again.

Anything else that could cause this or is the cart just dead?
 

Gremlin

Hi, I'm Gmegbln
10 Year Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2010
Posts
669
I've got a Metal slug 2 MVS cart with garbled audio. I cleaned all the contacts with alcohol but there's still no proper audio. Sometimes the sound on the title screen is good but after I press start the audio is always garbled again.

Anything else that could cause this or is the cart just dead?

Is it a legitimate cart?
 

xsq

Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
Joined
Jan 17, 2013
Posts
7,414
sorry for digging up this old thread but I recently cleaned a MVS PCB prior to a battery mod and came across it (very helpful btw., thanks).

However I believe that for neutralizing battery leakage on an MVS you should NOT use baking soda but vinegar. The reason is that the battery originally installed on my board read "Ni-Cd", which indicates the leakage would not be acidic, but basic. After you neutralized the leakage you will have to clean the PCB of the vinegar - you can do that with lots of water and here the baking soda paste mentioned above could be used to make sure the vinegar is neutralized...

After searching the web to confirm or disprove these thoughts I stumbled across this handy post here.
 

Heinz

Parteizeit
15 Year Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Posts
22,402
That's actually a fucking good point. I've always used baking soda and being over a year ago I have no idea if they had NiCd or Li-Ion batteries! :O
 

Dack

n00b
Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Posts
24
Would it be alright to use Goo Gone to get adhesive left from masking tape off the MVS cart shell?
 

jesesfbi

Ninja Combat Warrior
Joined
Jan 23, 2012
Posts
525
Would it be alright to use Goo Gone to get adhesive left from masking tape off the MVS cart shell?
Did you just peel the label off or used a heat gun? And yes it should be fine. And after you're done give it a good wash in cold water and dish soap and let it air dry
 

Jontox

Quiz Detective
Joined
Jul 19, 2016
Posts
89
First MVS motherboard acquisition and first clean-up following these tips.

Many thanks for this post :multi_co:

I would insist on the "edited" comment posted on the wiki advised by shadows as this specificity concerned Neogeo Ni-Cd battery. http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/PCB_Cleaning_101

EDIT: It has been pointed out that not all "battery acid" is in fact, acid. Trying to neutralize NiCad leakage with bicarb (another alkali) will not work, you need to use an acid such as good old white vinegar.
After soaking/scrubbing, rinse the board thoroughly and follow-up with the "Grime" cleaning procedure listed above.
For boards suffering from salt-air or water-based corrosion, the cleaning procedure for "Grime" is usually all that is required.
Salt and acid damaged boards will often form hard oxides on metal surfaces that won't yield to gentle scrubbing. Media blasting (glass or plastic beads or crush walnut shells or corn cobs) will often help remove more stubborn oxides and tarnish.
 

Hellfromabove

Dodgeball Yakuza
Joined
Jun 10, 2006
Posts
635
Thanks for this op (even though it's pretty dated lol). Glad you added the portion about washing PCBs. That seems to be the best, true way to clean them. As far as getting them "COMPLETELY dry", I was once advised to leave them out in the sun for a while so they would dry up. I did that along with putting a fan on them. Have had no issues ever.
 

Jontox

Quiz Detective
Joined
Jul 19, 2016
Posts
89
Another way to dry them if you're living in a rainy country is to preheat the oven to 170 F or 75 C and when hot stop it while leaving the motherboard inside for several hours or the night.

This is stated as well in the wiki link above.

Mine is currently in there ;)
 

xsq

Thou Shalt Not, Question Rot.,
Joined
Jan 17, 2013
Posts
7,414
I believe that for neutralizing battery leakage on an MVS you should NOT use baking soda but vinegar. [...]
I would insist on the "edited" comment posted on the wiki advised by shadows as this specificity concerned Neogeo Ni-Cd battery.
||||||
||||||
||||||
vvvvvv​
DON'T USE VINEGAR. [I know I posted about doing just that before - but I know better now.]

Do as follows:
1. Try to clean the spot as much as you can with a dry cloth and then some rubbing alcohol.
2. Mix baking soda with some water to a paste and apply it to the damaged parts with a toothbrush.
3. Let it sit for a short while (20-30 Min.).
4. Clean with distilled/demineralized water.
5. Dry the board. (Hand-dry with a clean and soft cotton cloth. Easiest way to make sure the board is really really dry is heating your oven to ca. 70°C, then turn it off (!) and put the PCB inside over night.)

Here's why: Mixing an acid (vinegar) with a base (leakage) could lead to a chemical reaction that will further damage your board. Also the proportions of battery leak to vinegar would have to be perfect to really neutralize the leakage and not leave some of the vinegar on the board that will eat through the metal even faster. Backing soda (sodium bicarbonate) is amphoteric, so it will neutralize bases and acids.

Thanks to the people schooling me on this. Read further here and here.

Spoiler:
ce9c949d6c73dbfb889f6036bac022dd.gif
 
Last edited:
Top