Page 17 of 20 FirstFirst ... 71314151617181920 LastLast
Results 401 to 425 of 481

Thread: The bad battery thread

  1. #401
    Cheng's Errand Boy

    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Baltimore

    Posts
    125
    Quote Originally Posted by Fygee View Post
    The board should still function fine without a battery. If it doesn't boot up after the battery has been removed or properly replaced, then something else is going on.

    The battery solder point looks pretty well corroded, and its harder to tell with the others as they appear to be covered in dirt/funk. I'd recommend cleaning the gunk off of the board so you can inspect it for corrosion and problems easier.
    Well I got off most of the glue (this stuff is insane), and it looks like the area around the corrosion was just about ready to flake off because I barely touched with with a QTip and alcohol and well, you can see that a bit of the green layer flaked around it.

    I don't think they point is bad, when I plug my battery in (soldered to the back of the board) I can still read voltages from the point, and I can still read voltage on the 4990 chip and the clock crystal. It doesn't look like there are any damaged traces around the corrosion.

    Here's a few pictures: http://imgur.com/a/bYePA

    Are there any other areas of the board I should be looking at? I should be getting unibios on Saturday, and I've read that it can bypass the error if there isn't a larger hardware problem on the board.

  2. #402
    Bewbs! Z'OMG
    Teh BEWBS!
    Fygee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Las Vegas

    Posts
    2,619
    You'll want to make sure to neutralize the area where the corrosion has happened and the flaking occurred. Even though the battery's been removed it can spread to traces over time.

    Beyond that, I'm not sure. A UniBIOS is good to have regardless, so if it works then you should be golden.

  3. #403
    Cheng's Errand Boy

    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Baltimore

    Posts
    125
    Quote Originally Posted by Fygee View Post
    You'll want to make sure to neutralize the area where the corrosion has happened and the flaking occurred. Even though the battery's been removed it can spread to traces over time.

    Beyond that, I'm not sure. A UniBIOS is good to have regardless, so if it works then you should be golden.
    Awesome, what's the best way to neutralize it? I've read vinegar and baking soda both work. Hopefully unibios boots it. If not, then maybe I'll have to replace the crystal or 4990 chip. Are there other chips I should take a look at for this? Those seem to be the two main ones that cause this.

  4. #404
    Lazy SNK Employee
    Hairy Otter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Belgium

    Posts
    53
    I've revived some 4 slot mvs boards, none of which had battery leakage, but to be on the safe side I just ask. Do I better exchange these batteries?
    (The boards are labled:NEO-MVH MV4FS)

    With other boards I've repaired, I always put in a non rechargeable 2032 battery after removing the load resistor along with the old battery, but here I don't find the 470 resistor? So do I have to put in a rechargeable one, or is there another resistor to be cut?

    Here you find a picture of the battery in question:
    (I don't find any other pictures of this battery on a MVS board online, why?)
    battery.jpg

  5. #405
    Mr Neo Fix-it channelmaniac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Dallas, Texas Metromess

    Posts
    4,235
    I haven't had one of those versions on my bench to be able to look at the circuitry. Sorry.

    Didn't realize you were in Belgium. I was in Oostende back in July.
    Call me a cheap bastard... I learned to fix things to save money... even surface mount soldering...

    Visit my website: http://www.arcadecomponents.com

    ---------

    I've repaired boards for many members here.

    Want me to repair your arcade game board? Look here. I do MVS, AES, and many other game boards.

    My repair logs are have moved to NewLifeGames.com!!!

  6. #406
    Shigen's Fitness Trainer
    Niko's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Kentucky

    Posts
    1,643
    Quote Originally Posted by Hairy Otter View Post
    I've revived some 4 slot mvs boards, none of which had battery leakage, but to be on the safe side I just ask. Do I better exchange these batteries?
    (The boards are labled:NEO-MVH MV4FS)

    With other boards I've repaired, I always put in a non rechargeable 2032 battery after removing the load resistor along with the old battery, but here I don't find the 470 resistor? So do I have to put in a rechargeable one, or is there another resistor to be cut?

    Here you find a picture of the battery in question:
    (I don't find any other pictures of this battery on a MVS board online, why?)
    battery.jpg

    Remove the battery and power up the MVS. Take a multimeter with the MVS powered on and measure the voltage on that 220 resistor. If you get 3.6 ~ 3.7v then turn off the MVS and check continuity from the 220 resistor and the positive point for the battery on the board. If you have continutiy then remove the 220 resistor and power up the MVS. Now check the voltage on the battery connections on the board. If you get no voltage you can safely drop in a CR2032.

  7. #407
    Rasputin's Rose Gardener
    Ninjainspandex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Wisconsin

    Posts
    863
    I have one of Christoph's Analogue Interactive CMVS's, yeah I know. But I'm wondering should I be concerned about the battery eventually leaking and damaging the MV1C board that is in there? I asked him if he installs new ones and he said as long as the original battery is still functioning he doesn't touch it. Kind of pissed actually with the amount of money these things go for the least he could do would install new batteries using 50 cent battery holders. He assured me after 4 years of making these CMVS's he never saw one with a leaking battery, but I'm not so sure that he is a qualified expert on that. I mean MV1C boards were made in the early 2000's so there probably hasn't been enough time passed for them to start leaking. So should I do anything proactively?


    Quote Originally Posted by jago View Post
    my anus is ready to shit on your face.

  8. #408
    Haomaru's Blade Shiner
    dragonpt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    ネオジオCO、ポルトガル

    Posts
    839
    Quote Originally Posted by Hairy Otter View Post
    I've revived some 4 slot mvs boards, none of which had battery leakage, but to be on the safe side I just ask. Do I better exchange these batteries?
    (The boards are labled:NEO-MVH MV4FS)

    With other boards I've repaired, I always put in a non rechargeable 2032 battery after removing the load resistor along with the old battery, but here I don't find the 470 resistor? So do I have to put in a rechargeable one, or is there another resistor to be cut?

    Here you find a picture of the battery in question:
    (I don't find any other pictures of this battery on a MVS board online, why?)
    battery.jpg
    looks like the same stock battery, that came on my MV1FZ .
    Hyper Neo Geo 64 / Neo Geo CD - Top Loader / Neo Geo Poket Color/ Neo MVS - MV1FZ / 1B / 4F

  9. #409
    Lazy SNK Employee
    Hairy Otter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Belgium

    Posts
    53
    Quote Originally Posted by channelmaniac View Post
    I haven't had one of those versions on my bench to be able to look at the circuitry. Sorry.

    Didn't realize you were in Belgium. I was in Oostende back in July.
    I'll be in Orlando in December, so close yet so far away.
    No problem, you taught me many tricks to recover many MVS boards. Here are the 4-slot boards fairly common. If I find a solution with the help of Niko49 tip, I'll post this over here for future repairs.

    I already want to thank Niko49 for his reply.

  10. #410
    Shigen's Fitness Trainer
    Niko's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Kentucky

    Posts
    1,643
    Quote Originally Posted by Ninjainspandex View Post
    I have one of Christoph's Analogue Interactive CMVS's, yeah I know. But I'm wondering should I be concerned about the battery eventually leaking and damaging the MV1C board that is in there? I asked him if he installs new ones and he said as long as the original battery is still functioning he doesn't touch it. Kind of pissed actually with the amount of money these things go for the least he could do would install new batteries using 50 cent battery holders. He assured me after 4 years of making these CMVS's he never saw one with a leaking battery, but I'm not so sure that he is a qualified expert on that. I mean MV1C boards were made in the early 2000's so there probably hasn't been enough time passed for them to start leaking. So should I do anything proactively?
    The 1C doesnt use a 'standard' battery layout so you have to custom fab a coin cell holder or sperate the battery from the board entirely.

  11. #411
    Rasputin's Rose Gardener
    Ninjainspandex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Wisconsin

    Posts
    863
    So should I be concerned about the battery ever leaking? It is in a wooden enclosure so I'd never know if it was happening.


    Quote Originally Posted by jago View Post
    my anus is ready to shit on your face.

  12. #412
    World Hero
    shadowkn55's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    SoCal

    Posts
    2,321
    Quote Originally Posted by Ninjainspandex View Post
    So should I be concerned about the battery ever leaking? It is in a wooden enclosure so I'd never know if it was happening.
    Yes, you should worry about it leaking. I've seen many boards with leaking or starting to leak (acid crust around the batteries) batteries. Most of the time it cleans up nicely but sometimes tedious repairs are involved. I've made it standard procedure to remove the original battery and replace it with a standard coin cell holder. These batteries are getting old so even if they don't leak, they don't have infinite charge/recharge cycles.

  13. #413
    Rasputin's Rose Gardener
    Ninjainspandex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Wisconsin

    Posts
    863
    Quote Originally Posted by shadowkn55 View Post
    Yes, you should worry about it leaking. I've seen many boards with leaking or starting to leak (acid crust around the batteries) batteries. Most of the time it cleans up nicely but sometimes tedious repairs are involved. I've made it standard procedure to remove the original battery and replace it with a standard coin cell holder. These batteries are getting old so even if they don't leak, they don't have infinite charge/recharge cycles.
    Thank you for replying shadow, I knew Christoph telling me not to worry about the battery in his CMVS was a bit short sighted. In hindsight I should of bought an Omega, sadly I didn't know about them when I bought it :/


    Quote Originally Posted by jago View Post
    my anus is ready to shit on your face.

  14. #414
    JammaNationX
    Xian Xi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Waipahu, Hawaii

    Posts
    27,846
    Quote Originally Posted by shadowkn55 View Post
    I've made it standard procedure to remove the original battery and replace it with a standard coin cell holder.
    How recent was this made standard? The Omega I sold for a friend still had the stock battery on it, I believe he bought it in 2013.

  15. #415
    Rasputin's Rose Gardener
    Ninjainspandex's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Wisconsin

    Posts
    863
    So what battery do I need to order to replace the one in the MV-1C?


    Quote Originally Posted by jago View Post
    my anus is ready to shit on your face.

  16. #416
    Lazy SNK Employee
    Hairy Otter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Belgium

    Posts
    53
    Quote Originally Posted by Hairy Otter View Post
    I've revived some 4 slot mvs boards, none of which had battery leakage, but to be on the safe side I just ask. Do I better exchange these batteries?
    (The boards are labled:NEO-MVH MV4FS)

    With other boards I've repaired, I always put in a non rechargeable 2032 battery after removing the load resistor along with the old battery, but here I don't find the 470 resistor? So do I have to put in a rechargeable one, or is there another resistor to be cut?

    Here you find a picture of the battery in question:
    (I don't find any other pictures of this battery on a MVS board online, why?)
    battery.jpg
    battery schema.jpg

    This is what I got from looking on the board.

    I did some experiments on a scrap board.
    First I removed old battery along with the 220 resistor, but this hadn't the effect I expected. With the power on the voltage on the anode of the 1S1588 was 0V, but on the cathode it was still 4.2V? The + side of the battery holder also give 4.2V.
    Then I tried to find out what the HRP100 was. By the symbol it should be a zener diode but Google couldn't find a datasheet? So I desoldered it, and looked at it with my loupe. There it says: S4`3D. Can't find anything about that either. (S4 should be SMD?)

    Then I took a leap and desoldered the 1S1588 and put this to replace the HRP100. Now I think this works, with power on the battery + from the cr2032 holder is 0V, the backup RAM had 5V. With a battery in the holder, the battery + gives 3.5V. The RAM still gets 5V of course.
    With the power of and the battery in place, the RAM get 3.2V.

    Can someone on the forum confirm this mod should work?

    Can somebody also explain the function of the tansistor and the 74HC32 in this circuit?

  17. #417
    Neo Bubble Buster
    darknezz19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Arizona

    Posts
    45
    I just pulled my 4 slot MVS out to check the battery. To my surprise it had a cell in it that doesn't look like any of the original drum batteries like in other people's guides, but it still said rechargeable on it. It didn't look like it had any leaking but who knows about the underside. Is this still possibly an original battery or has this already been swapped by someone? Figured I'd wait till my uni bios chip gets here to swap that and maybe the battery as well.
    http://imgur.com/IR2LKbq

    Edit: Gosh dangit.. It was right above my head.
    Last edited by darknezz19; 10-17-2014 at 07:54 PM.

  18. #418
    Pupil of Bonus-Kun
    Valius's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    California, USA

    Posts
    7
    Hello everyone, I have a question about battery replacement (I have a MV1T). If I were to go the supercap route, what kind of supercap should I get?

  19. #419
    Leona's Therapist
    Neorebel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Massachusetts

    Posts
    1,951
    For some reason I clicked on this thread and thought... naaaa.... my board is nice and shiny and I visually inspect the battery every time I put a game in and it looks fine. Then I actually read and realized the corrosion starts off slowly and is barely visible until one looks closely... 'the "dust."

    Lo and behold, this issue had begun on my mv-1f, but thankfully I snipped it off before anything was affected. The pins that were holding the battery terminals were slightly corroded but nothing else. *whew* I didn't feel like buying a new board at all!

    Let me tell you, at first glance, this battery did not look like a problem at all. One side of it is clean even. I should have taken the advice left by those here, to immediately do something about it as soon as you get the board. Meanwhile, I have had this since 2007!

    IMG_6310.JPG

  20. #420
    Bashful Neophyte

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Vermont

    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by F4U57 View Post
    Great thread, full of very informative info. I've been having a lot of issues lately with my MV-4FT2 not handling all four slots, I think it is the power supply dying out as I've checked the voltage and it's unstable. I've had the board for ten years and I could not remember who or where I bought it from on eBay.

    So decided to check the battery, and it appears that this board had already been modded with a rechargeable Lithium battery, but as you can see, there is another modification which appears to be some resistor in a sheath running from the location of the battery to a chip. This may be completely unrelated to the battery as it appears to be some sort of grounding. I may be wrong.

    But this also looks like it was factory installed. The backing on the underside of the board is completely intact and does not appear to have been tampered with. Again, I may be wrong but the battery is a Toshiba VG2430 which is the same battery MtothaJ said he believes came factory installed on his MV-1FZ board.

    Thoughts anyone? And do I ever need to consider changing out the battery? The 470 charger resistor is still intact.




    Attachment 8664
    Just read this whole thread and this caught my eye. I bought this same board. MV4-ft2 and it has the same 3v lithium rechargeable battery with that odd jumper. The 1st ft2 I bought and am running now came with the 3.6 NiCd battery and does not have that jumper wire. I removed the batteries on both and added a coin holder to my 1st ft2 after fixing some traces. The 2nd board that looks like this one is in great shape though because the 3v lithium never leaked. I was thinking of putting a coin holder on it and keeping the vg2430 and leaving the charge circ intact. Kinda keeps it in a more original state that way. Mine also has that odd blue wire jumping across. Has anyone ever seen this before. It really looks factory. Maybe something to do with the charging circuit. Oh ya, this one has a Japan bios and my NiCd ft2 has the USA bios. Just fore reference.[IMG][/IMG]

  21. #421
    Bashful Neophyte

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Vermont

    Posts
    12
    [IMG][/IMG]

    This is a better pic. I think it is factory. The foam on the bottom is completely intact on mine too. See that blue wire jumping across to the jamma edge conn. I need to follow it to try and find out where it goes.

  22. #422
    New Challenger
    sega_retro_neo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    NorCal, United States

    Posts
    27
    Great pics! This thread answered all my questions. Thanks!

  23. #423
    Cham Cham's Banana
    NeoGeo64's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Leesburg, GA

    Posts
    150
    I hate to do this but I am unable to start a thread or even view some forums. I signed up to these forums a while back and just logged back in. I am pretty sure that I verified my account through my email address when I did sign up.

    It has been a while since I logged in but when I logged in today, I am unable to post in many forums, I am unable to read many posts also. I am unable to message any moderators with this issue. I don't know how else to get this out here - but I need a mod to undo whatever has been done to my account. I never trolled, spammed, etc. Just been a while since I've been here. Someone please help fix my situation!

    Once again, I am sorry for having to hijack a thread but I had NO other way to get a message out here for an admin to see it. As I said before, I can't even view the moderators profile in order to message them. I am basically locked out of everything. I'm actually very surprised that I was even able to post this message here.

  24. #424
    Thou Shalt Not
    Question Rot.
    xsq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Muenster, Germany

    Posts
    7,318
    Quote Originally Posted by NeoGeo64 View Post
    It has been a while since I logged in but when I logged in today, I am unable to post in many forums, I am unable to read many posts also. I am unable to message any moderators with this issue.
    My guess is your account has been identified as a 0 post account, therefor no more market and PM access. Read this. And this.

  25. #425
    New Challenger

    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Miami

    Posts
    22
    I read through but I'm still confused. Is there a consensus about the MV4FS battery? Mine is a coin rechargeable lithium WITHOUT jumper. What resistor do I pull? Thanks.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •